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Premium Member 2007 SLK350
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Thanks I860 for all the great info

After watching some YouTube videos on the subject I decided to order a new pierburg intake manifold from Partsgeeks. Prior to installing the new manifold I replaced the lousy plastic bellcrank with the aluminum one I purchased from Uro. It took several hours to clear all the obsticals prior to removing the old intake. It took around an hour to reinstall the new intake and all the connections. The fishing line worked great on the intake gaskets!

I started investigating the cause of the failure on my old intake. The tumbler flaps operated very easily and surely didn't cause this failure. My personal conclusion is that the bellcrank is poorly engineered and is to weak and brittle. Mercedes Benz should be ashamed of this situation and doing all they can to repair all these cars. Chrysler just issued a recall on the windshield washer bottles because some may crack and leak. This is definitely my last Mercedes base on how they stand behind there product.

My old intake is perfectly find other that it needs the bellcrank replaced. I will take pics and offer it for sale in the next few days. My car runs great again!
 

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2005 SLK350
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144 Posts
I have 2005 SLK350 manual transmission 3.5L M272 engine I get the codes P0128 Coolant Thermostat Coolant Temp Below Thermostat Regulating Temperature & P2006: Manifold runner control stuck close bank 1a.....
I have the parts to repair these codes first code P0128 I have a new Thermostat & Manifold Repair Kit however the butterfly on this kit has stops on it to prevent damage to the plastic flappers inside the intake manifold which (according to my indie mac.) says is very important that reduces stress on those internal plastic parts. The part was a little more expensive than the one on ebay but if my mac is correct it is worth the extra 60 bucks w/ 2 manifold gaskets. [ems] European Motor Service Cost $160.00 with shipping.

In the photo of the back side of the butterfly it is machined so there is a thicker piece of round metal that are stops to prevent placing undue stress on the internal plastic flaps on the inside of the manifold. Also the piece is made so you just clip on the original Without these stops pressure builds onto the plastic parts because there is no stop and the inside plastic parts break. I do not know if is actual but in does seem to make sense. Hopefully it is not a waste of money. My mac seems to think it is worth the extra cost.

There are various videos that show how to DIY this repair.
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2005 SLK350
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update: I decided to repair the vehicle myself and removed the manifold. The rocker was broken however the bolt was also broken off as well. I was lucky to have a repair shop nearby that had the same intake in their metal recycling pile which they were going to dispose. I was able to get the used manifold for free and swapped all the components to it. I installed the manifold with the aluminum rocker in place. I also replaced the thermostat and antifreeze while the intake was off which made it an easier job. The vehicle started up error free. I was also having intermittent no start issues which since the intake repair has not happened again. It was a bit of work to complete the repair and it was a good learning experience for me. The reason I am posting because it wasn't that difficult process to complete and if someone is into this type of DIY it can be done in a day or two with no issues plus save you $....
 

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2006 SLK280
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660 Posts
Tumble flap, final revisit.... hopefully!!!


It was a two days of horror, despair, frustration and exhaustion!!
Last year, after watching Steve changed his tumble flap (he ran into lots of complication), I did mine slk280... took around 4 hrs, worked on the first tried, no problem at all. So 2 days ago I decided to change the tumble flap (still in good condition) on my E350 (same exactly engine and configuration).
On the 1st day, I took time cleaned up and going slow... new gaskets (unlike on the SLK, which I used super glue to hold the gasket in place, this time followed many member advices here,, I used fishing lines to hold the gaskets fixed) and everything put together.. turn on the engine... the engine ran very rough, and the CEL was on!!. Disappointed but not too alarm.... from Mr Steve experience, I knew the gaskets was misaligned/misplaced. So the next day starting at 8AM, took everything out.... and sure enough, the gasket was misplaced and folded/deformed!!??. The odd thing is even after I straightened out the gasket, it wouldn't fit properly anymore!!.... so I had to use the old gaskets. This is where the nightmare and horror began!! After unsuccessful using fishing lines to hold the gaskets, I switched back to superglue..... put back everything... engine still run rough and CEL was on!!! Removed everything again, and to my surprised, superglue didn't stick. So you named it: superglue, fishing lines, superglue and fishing lines together, then a dozen of fishing lines on each side..... No matter what I did, the gaskets wouldn't stay..... always misaligned/deformed/folded. Totally I assembled/disassembled the intake manifold (and everything surround it) 7 times!!!#$%^. At the end of 7th time, put the car back together, cleared the CEL, turned on the engine... the engine ran fine and smooth.... I was reborn and happy!!. Took it for a test drive, the engine was really smooth, but I smelled lean burning smell!!?? Sure enough, 30 mins later, CEL was back on!! coded lean burning bank 1 and 2..... my world collapsed with frustration, exhaustion, horror, tired, despair.... I cleared the CEL and test run again, 30 mins later, CEL was back on... I knew there was no way out but to do it [email protected]#$
It was 6:45PM Friday night, I called the local MB dealer to locate and hold a new set of gasket for me. Then I flew over, literately flew over .... I drove there in 12 mins in a drive that normally took 20-25 mins!! I got there 2 mins before they closed (close at 7PM)..... everybody left, my part was already on the table waiting...... So got home at 7.30PM, I skipped the diner.... while the engine still burning hot, I dissemble everything again... I did this in the garage with light, which still dark for this type of job (need lots of light for little detail). By now it dark and I was tired... I dropped the bolt here and there.... In the middle of the job, had to jack up the car, remove under engine covers to retrieve a few bolt and nut!!! This time I used the putty knife to scrub the manifold's contact surface, then rubbed it down with acetone to remove all superglue residues.... I finished assemble everything at 11.30PM!! took it out for a 10 mins drive and everything "seems" OK.....!!!!


I will need to take it out for a longer drive today to confirm the result... Had my diner at 1AM last night!! what supposed to be 3 hrs job (since I have more experience than the 1st time) turned out to be 2 full days. Hopefully this is the end of it.... not sure what to do if it still have problem.... I have no patient and energy left to do this 1 more time. Totally, I assemble/disassemble the intake manifold 8 times!!
 

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2005 SLK350
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144 Posts
Good luck with the repair I hope you do not get any error codes. I am curious which error code you had to clear? As stated in my 2 posts on this subject, I took my time removing and during the installation of the intake since it was me first attempt completing a DIY on the Benz. I was having 3 types of error code associated with this issue. P2006 & P0128 however I was also experiencing the dreaded unexplained no start issue with negative error codes. After the completed flap repair, code P2006 & P0128 cleared I was running at around the correct engine temperature 80C and the vehicle has not had the no start issue since the repair. I am just curious of the inter-relationship of all the error codes from the flapper and how it related to the no start situation I was experiencing. It should be noted that I had to swap the intake manifold from the 2005 SLK350 due to the broken bolt in the aluminum case housing and replace it with the one from the metal recycling pile which came from a 2007 ML350. In the photos it shows the difference in the manifolds 2005 has clear plastic color secondary vacuum connection (pic # 3), to the 2007 manifold (pic # 5) which has black plastic ones (2nd post). The manifold part numbers are the same however. Just interested in any thoughts on the subject in the codes and the no start.
 

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2006 SLK280
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660 Posts
from the logical point of view, intake manifold should have nothing to do with start. But then with CAN BUS links, computer control system like these cars, whose know how they linked!!. Rough running due to vacuum leak made sense (as experience by many people who had done this project). The code I had was 2187 (lean burning on bank 1) and 2189 (bank 2), which were the lesser, minor ones compared to the other codes people experienced (multiple misfire and multiple cyclinders). After more test driving yesterday... I think I fixed it this time. it was really stupid because when I did it my the SLK the first time, it took only 3 hrs, worked on the first tried.....
 

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2005 SLK350
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144 Posts
It is interesting for sure, in my case the car was not running rough or misfiring in fact i never really even noticed there was a problem but for the codes. I do feel the car does run a bit smoother but I had to really pay attention to notice any real difference and of course the no start issue has disappeared. When I had the car checked with STAR at the dealership they indicated there was no error codes listed for the start issue but it also happened to them which they couldn't understand why it did not generate a code in the start cycle. So hopefully it never comes back and this fix will last for a long time with no future problems.
 

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*Premium Member
2005 SLK55 AMG /2005 SLK350
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It disrupts the intake air just before it flows under the injector - it causes a "swirl" effect in the air which I suppose has some magic effect on how well the fuel is atomized.
 

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2006 SLK350
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What are the torque specs for the intake manifold bolts?
9NM - not much at all.

Remove injectors? I didn't have to do that on my 262(?) engine (3.5L).

I did mine differently and it came back to byte me in the rear. Having read up on the job I learned that it's hard to get the gaskets in the right place. I saw that the manifold has cast pins in it to hold the new gaskets but they did not hold tight enough and the gaskets would fall off. I heard about using fishing line but came up with what I thought was a similar solution.

What I did was use silicone on the blank pads and then put the gaskets on. I then put heavy sockets on and left it overnight to dry. I thought it was ingenious because it would be able to take lots of abuse on the re-install (I didn't have anyone to hold the wires out of the way).

So, that's what I did. When I fired it up it missed all over the place when it was cold. Scanning it showed that the left bank was too lean and the computer was complaining that it could not enrichen it enough at idle. I figured for sure it was a vacuum leak from the gasket but could not understand why since I ensured it was seated properly on install. Once it warmed up, the misfiring went away. I then re-torqued the manifold thinking this would help. It did. But...

When cold it would intermittently miss. So I brought it back to the shop and used a smoke device to fill the intake with smoke. Sure enough, the front left port was leaking and this was the one the scan tool was complaining about :frown:

So...somehow...I screwed it up. The mechanics in the shop were rolling their eyes and giving me a hard time about my come-back. The general consensus was that I used too much silicone to hold the gasket in place and this caused the manifold to not be able to seal.

So I was pretty embarrassed and had to wait 3 or 4 days before addressing the issue.

Here's the thing, when a bay was free at the shop and I brought it back I actually removed it, with no word of a lie, in 10 minutes!! I'm not kidding. When the mechanics saw how fast I had it out they told me not to show the owner (my cousin) because he would try to hire me :smile:

But the thing is they were right. I used too much silicone and it interfered with the manifold being able to sit flush. So, my ingenious idea to address the common issue of not being able to seat the gasket correctly and ending up with a leak caused....a leak! :crying:

So this time around I used the tried and tested fishing line method and it worked well. But I did have help this time with the shop owner holding the wires out of the way when I re-installed it. Once everything was bolted up we smoked it again and nothing. Not a leak to be found. Cleared the codes, fired it up, perfect. And a BIG fuel economy increase as well (more then 5 MPG).

So while they were quick to razz me about my come-back I was just as quick to remind the shop owner that I took it out in 10 minutes (and when I showed him the intake 10 minutes after talking to him about borrowing the bay, he was shocked!) but he was quick to point out that he could do it in 8.....0:)

In retrospect, the general consensus was that if I used less silicone it probably would have been OK and if I had not let it dry overnight it probably would have been OK. That is, if it was still a little wet it would have squished out and sat flat. But here's the thing, if you're doing it yourself just use fishing line on each of the 4 corners. Once seated you can just pull it off. Problem solved.

Here's some pics for fun..Oh, last thing. When I got the car the flappers were NOT broken. I had a feeling many times that I should have lubricated the ball joints but I never did it. I would not be surprised that if you have the stock flapper setup and you lubricated the ball joints you could probably avoid them breaking.....

Edit: Oh, and if you have the intake off be sure to clean the throttle body as it's very easy. Just push it open and hit it with brake kleen and a rag and be sure to get it spotless including the places the plate sits when closed and also the edges of the plate itself.
 

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*Premium Member
2005 SLK350
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@marvin-miller - you are not the first to be challenged by the intake manifold gaskets staying put as the manifold is set into place. Your sealant approach was worthy. While I have not done this repair (yet) I wonder if four studs would not easily accomplish the task? Maybe that has already been tried and failed or maybe it is a known resolution, but I don't remember hearing of it. Heard plenty about fishing line and such.

If a stud long enough that will pass up and out of the manifold once it is placed so that the stud can easily be unscrewed and the proper fastener is replaced, then that would hold the gasket and allow for the manifold to be guided into place without misalignment or unintended shifting. These only need to be regualr bolts long enough with the heads removed. The manifold bolt fastener size is M6x50 so a M6x60 - 70 bolt should be plenty of length. Just cut the head off.

Locate them at the four corners, drop the manifold gaskets on them and then slide the manifodl into place. Put the center fasteners in place before removing the studs. Once they are in place then remove the studs and install the correct fasteners at the corner.

For those that have done this project let the rest of us know if this will work.
 

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2005 SLK55 AMG /2005 SLK350
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[MENTION=242041]
For those that have done this project let the rest of us know if this will work.
I have done this repair, and I think your approach would likely work. It is true that the manifold is embossed to hold the gaskets in place, but it is easy for a clumsy first-timer to knock the gasket loose.

However, my membership in the guild requires the use of knots whenever possible.
 

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2006 SLK350
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@marvin-miller - you are not the first to be challenged by the intake manifold gaskets staying put as the manifold is set into place. Your sealant approach was worthy. While I have not done this repair (yet) I wonder if four studs would not easily accomplish the task? Maybe that has already been tried and failed or maybe it is a known resolution, but I don't remember hearing of it. Heard plenty about fishing line and such.....
That approach was brought up by the bystanders at the shop (the other mechanics :wink:) I'm certain it would work and if I worked at a MB dealer I'd probably investigate it due to the volume of intakes. To me, if a person is doing it by themselves, that would be ideal. You could forget the gaskets altogether and just concentrate on threading the manifold through the wires and cables etc.
 

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2004 SLK350
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I did my intake repair today on an 04 SLK 350, total time a little under 3 hours taking my time and with a tea break with about an hour of that time spent cleaning the manifold and the mating surface on the engine and fitting the new arm and actuator. I used the Uro parts repair kit which I highly recomend and of course new manifold gaskets all from ECS tuning. I also replaced all the seals on the air flow sensor and body while it was all apart.

For my car there was no need to remove the injectors and by far the two most fiddly bits were removing the electrical connector from the throttle body, the lower clip did not want to release, in the end I left it until the manifold was half out and I could better access to it. Secondly the gaskets, they do not clip onto the pegs very securely and even a little knock will knock them off, I just perservered and on the third attempt it slipped in OK. I tied up as many of the cables I could to keep them out of the way.

The car restarted fine, I cleared the code using my Autel Maxisys and took it for a test drive and all was well, I rescanned the car and no fault codes.
 
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