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Discussion Starter #1
Hi folks.
My SLK has suffered a reasonable amount of corrosion around the rear wheel arches from the ravishes of the salt used to keep the northern UK roads ice free. I had them rubbed down and resprayed and the car looks fantastic but the guy who did the work for me recommended that I sell the car on while it looks good and let it be someone else's problem.

Apart from the fact that I don't like knowingly dumping my problems on someone else I am actually becoming quite attached to the thing!! I know it is mechanically in good order and that and has only covered 49,000 miles and I feel that for all it is worth it is probably best for me just to run it to death and enjoy it.

I do know though that if the rust does come back through on the rear wheel arches that it will bug me and I will want to do something about it!! I think the metal is too thin to rub down any more so probable only options left are to cut out and rebuild/respray or to replace the rear wings completely, possibly even one at a time to spread the cost. Is replacing the rear wings something worth contemplating or is it best just to move the car on?

Any thoughts or opinions on the matter would be much appreciated.
Cheers,

Col.
 

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I would not let rust put me off a car. Not these days. You have had someone repray the wheel arches on the outside, but has he taken care of the problem from the inside? You dont hear people talking about Waxoyl and Ziebart much these days, but they do work well in preventing rust. Also, WD40 is good at getting into cracks and stopping rust from forming. My advice is to use a good jet wash to properly clean all the salt and rubbish out of the wheel arches then leave it in a garage to dry out for a week or so. After that treat the underside of the arches. Also, think about getting a cheap run around for the winter. It will cost a lot less than having wheel arches replaced!

By the way, the K7 in a great bike!
 

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Grease

No ! Not the musical grease up all the under arches but make sure it is clear of winter salt. We have the same issue spent £800 for all four last summer. There is as yet no evidence of its return.

Our sprayer said it will take 18-24 months to come back, but he greased it and said keep it like that all the time. We are going to look at a 171 this week but that said it will the 170 plus £9000 which is a lot of repair monies.

Even with your low mileage there are so many 170's for sale, so resale is not strong.
 

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After having owned a 1972 MGB for over 25 years, I am familiar with rust issues. now is the time to act. Clean the underbody thoroughly to remove grime, salt, etc, etc. Consider Waxoyl or some similar product. You cannot prevent rust, but you can keep it at bay for a long time.
 

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A lot of built up mud collects on the inside ledge of the wheelarches and becomes hard. Get something like the handle of an old toothbrush and remove all of this mud .Then give it a good spray with something like WD40 or even get a paintbrush and apply a good paint primer or rust inhibitor.
If you do not remove this build up of mud then water will build up behind it and over time will create rust that will eventually rot away the ledges and start showing through the wheel arches.
 

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Hi, my car also had wheel arch blistering and caused me concern. I followed advice from this forum and removed and neutralised the rust and painted the inner arches with smootrite paint. I then had the whole underside treated with dynatrol. I love the car and would not want to sell it just because I am worried the rust will come back. I am sure it will but I am going to keep the car and love it until it has to go to the scrap yard.
 
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Discussion Starter #7
Hi all.
Thanks for all the advice and I will definitely try to halt the spread of rust.
David is right about the build up of mud which builds up particularly under the folds of the rear wheel arches and my car was suffering badly from this when I bought it. I removed it ASAP but I think the damage was done by this stage - more the full me for not checking properly!

PMB - GSXR 1000k7 is. Great bike, pity I no longer have it. RD 250LC is a cracking machine too.

Col.
 

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Grease is the best barrier. Ours has gone through the last couple of months and the grease put on last September is firmly in place and easy to apply with rubber gloves.
 

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Hello, Col,

I, too, have a 2002 slk in linarite. With some rust too. For little bits, I used a local body shop who did the front arches/ stone chipped pillars and boot handle. Then had it treated at The Waxworks in Morpeth. I think it was around £300. Took him all day and he did a really good job. Easy to find on a serach engine. :bannana:

Now, it's being run to the 'end'. Resale isn't really a viable option.
 
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