Guys. I am experiencing exactly this issue as well.
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I am opening this post because the original one was closed for further posting, but it was not resolved.
My car sometimes will not crank at all, usually when you insert the key and turn the ignition on very quickly. It has happened intermittently since I bought the vehicle. It is a rare event, maybe once every two weeks. I simply twist the key again and she would start with a click. Car battery is very strong. Today however I had to remove they key, waited a few seconds then tried again. Sure enough she started and no problems. When I got home I tried to start the car and no problems. I waited a few hours and tried again, no problems. I scanned with icarsoft. It can read the EIS and ECU amongst other things. No appreciable codes. ECU and SAM reported P2041-001 N80 (steering column module) CAN signal interruption. I am not sure if this is related to the problem or was set when I was doing a steering column repair a long time ago. Its a historic code, ecu doesnt seem to note the time and date it was reported. (At least not to my knowledge, I dont know if it relies on the dashboard clock which gets reset when the battery dies).
After reading the post, it seems a lot of people are experiencing this. For now I don’t know what is causing my problem. I am hoping it does not get worse but i dont want to get stuck in the middle of nowhere needing an expensive tow truck.
I have a few ideas. The key does have what looks like an IR port. (Similar to your usual tv remote control). Picture inserted.
![Image]()
I presume the key will send an encrypted IR code to the EIS to allow start authorisation. (Very secure method vs the RF broadcast method which is vulnerable to an eavesdrop attack). My question is, does the code have to be sent BEFORE the EIS will allow you to turn the key to position 1 or 2? i.e. what does “Start Authorized” actually control, just the actual cranking or even allowing the key to be turned to pos 1 or 2.
I suspect a dirty IR sensors on either the key or inside the EIS May be causing our fleeting problem.
EDIT: if you want to cut to the chase (and miss the misadventures) go straight here:
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Intermittent Starting Issue
My 2005 SLK350 has had an intermittent, but persistent, issue since shortly after I purchased it 4 years ago. Get in the car, turn the key, and most times the car starts right up. But every so often, everything works except the starter which shows not the slightest sign of life. I then take...
www.slkworld.com
I am opening this post because the original one was closed for further posting, but it was not resolved.
My car sometimes will not crank at all, usually when you insert the key and turn the ignition on very quickly. It has happened intermittently since I bought the vehicle. It is a rare event, maybe once every two weeks. I simply twist the key again and she would start with a click. Car battery is very strong. Today however I had to remove they key, waited a few seconds then tried again. Sure enough she started and no problems. When I got home I tried to start the car and no problems. I waited a few hours and tried again, no problems. I scanned with icarsoft. It can read the EIS and ECU amongst other things. No appreciable codes. ECU and SAM reported P2041-001 N80 (steering column module) CAN signal interruption. I am not sure if this is related to the problem or was set when I was doing a steering column repair a long time ago. Its a historic code, ecu doesnt seem to note the time and date it was reported. (At least not to my knowledge, I dont know if it relies on the dashboard clock which gets reset when the battery dies).
After reading the post, it seems a lot of people are experiencing this. For now I don’t know what is causing my problem. I am hoping it does not get worse but i dont want to get stuck in the middle of nowhere needing an expensive tow truck.
I have a few ideas. The key does have what looks like an IR port. (Similar to your usual tv remote control). Picture inserted.
I presume the key will send an encrypted IR code to the EIS to allow start authorisation. (Very secure method vs the RF broadcast method which is vulnerable to an eavesdrop attack). My question is, does the code have to be sent BEFORE the EIS will allow you to turn the key to position 1 or 2? i.e. what does “Start Authorized” actually control, just the actual cranking or even allowing the key to be turned to pos 1 or 2.
I suspect a dirty IR sensors on either the key or inside the EIS May be causing our fleeting problem.
EDIT: if you want to cut to the chase (and miss the misadventures) go straight here:
EIS internal switch cleaning quick version (fixes...
This DIY is part of a series about the EIS for the SLK R171 (W211 E class also uses the same EIS I believe. This DIY can help them as well). This is for those who don't like my long explanations and just want to follow a recipe to recondition the EIS. If you are here because your baby has...
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