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Registered 1998 SLK230
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60 Posts
Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Hi... I just joined here so hoping that I'm posting this in the right place. Anyway - bought a 1998 SLK230 sight unseen from an auction across the country. It had 104,400 miles +-. I did the Carfax - no accidents, good maintenance record from PO. Got it for $2300. My first Mercedes. I can't even change a tire, so I apologize for the simple/childish description of problems that I could use some help with.

First off, the car drives pretty good, except for an occasional 'chug' when I press on gas to increase speed. The other things I noticed - it ran hot - temp gauge stayed at about 100. And... gas mileage was TERRIBLE. Since it didn't overheat during that time, I just assumed that it runs hot. Had an oil change done as soon as I got it.

A friend put a cheap scanner on it, and got the following codes: P0105, P0410, and P1519. So, I was thinking it may be the MAP sensor. Bought a new one, friend put it on. Fuel consumption seemed alot better. Rescanned: Now I only get P0105 and P1519. Note: Friend knows as much about cars as I do.

Then he found that the tubing to the MAP was corroded. He replaced it. Still get the codes.

I drove it the first two weeks, no other problems, but only drove local short trips.

A couple of weeks into it, then it overheated. Still was driving pretty darn good however. Friend found that cooling fan doesn't seem to be coming on. Me and friend pulled the relay sensor from a 2002 model. He replaced that. Cleared codes. Didn't come back up. Fan came on.

That was about 5 days ago. Only short trips until today. Got on the highway and the check engine light came on, as well as the radiator light. Temp indicator was steady in the middle for the entire trip until I made it back home. The other thing that I noticed was that the 'chug' when increasing speed was alot more frequent than it was initially when I first got the car.

Once sitting in the driveway, the temp gauge went up. Checked for codes. Still only 0105 and 1519. Fan not coming on again. Let me be clear - the car is NOT crippled by any means. Drives like a charm except for that 'chug'.

I just read through some of these forum posts, and have now ordered a more suitable ODB scanner, but still need some advice on what to check for this.

Oh, there's more: so then we were looking at the engine, and see two tubes that aren't going anywhere. The smaller one of them (#2 on the pic) has a vacuum function when I put my finger to the open end of it. I'm attaching a photo here, can someone tell me what the two tubes are, and if they are supposed to be hanging open like that? Note: #2 wasn't initially standing up like that (pulled it upward to take the pic), it was initially dangling below there.

UPDATE: I bought an Autel scanner (MD 802). It's coming up with no codes. The cheap scanner my friend used is also coming up with no codes. Yet the radiator light is still on, and the car is running hot (although it hasn't overheated again. Yet.) The fan is still not coming on. He tried to swap it out with one that we pulled from a pull-your-own place, and that's not coming on either.

CAN ANYONE HELP?

Thanks so much!


580585
 

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Administrator 2009 SLK 55 AMG/Founding Member 2006
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98,260 Posts

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Registered 1998 SLK230
Joined
·
26 Posts
Hi... I just joined here so hoping that I'm posting this in the right place. Anyway - bought a 1998 SLK230 sight unseen from an auction across the country. It had 104,400 miles +-. I did the Carfax - no accidents, good maintenance record from PO. Got it for $2300. My first Mercedes. I can't even change a tire, so I apologize for the simple/childish description of problems that I could use some help with.

First off, the car drives pretty good, except for an occasional 'chug' when I press on gas to increase speed. The other things I noticed - it ran hot - temp gauge stayed at about 100. And... gas mileage was TERRIBLE. Since it didn't overheat during that time, I just assumed that it runs hot. Had an oil change done as soon as I got it.

A friend put a cheap scanner on it, and got the following codes: P0105, P0410, and P1519. So, I was thinking it may be the MAP sensor. Bought a new one, friend put it on. Fuel consumption seemed alot better. Rescanned: Now I only get P0105 and P1519. Note: Friend knows as much about cars as I do.

Then he found that the tubing to the MAP was corroded. He replaced it. Still get the codes.

I drove it the first two weeks, no other problems, but only drove local short trips.

A couple of weeks into it, then it overheated. Still was driving pretty darn good however. Friend found that cooling fan doesn't seem to be coming on. Me and friend pulled the relay sensor from a 2002 model. He replaced that. Cleared codes. Didn't come back up. Fan came on.

That was about 5 days ago. Only short trips until today. Got on the highway and the check engine light came on, as well as the radiator light. Temp indicator was steady in the middle for the entire trip until I made it back home. The other thing that I noticed was that the 'chug' when increasing speed was alot more frequent than it was initially when I first got the car.

Once sitting in the driveway, the temp gauge went up. Checked for codes. Still only 0105 and 1519. Fan not coming on again. Let me be clear - the car is NOT crippled by any means. Drives like a charm except for that 'chug'.

I just read through some of these forum posts, and have now ordered a more suitable ODB scanner, but still need some advice on what to check for this.

Oh, there's more: so then we were looking at the engine, and see two tubes that aren't going anywhere. The smaller one of them (#2 on the pic) has a vacuum function when I put my finger to the open end of it. I'm attaching a photo here, can someone tell me what the two tubes are, and if they are supposed to be hanging open like that? Note: #2 wasn't initially standing up like that (pulled it upward to take the pic), it was initially dangling below there.

Thanks!


View attachment 580585
I would say that nylon hose plugs into the rubber hose. This hose supplies vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator and would probably explain the chug and bad fuel consumption. Juxt plug them together.
 

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Registered 1998 SLK230
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60 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
Hi... Thanks for responding. Sorry if I sound dumb asking, but when you say "this hose supplies to the fuel pressure regulator", are you referring to hose 1 or 2 in the photo? They are two different size hoses (hose #2 is thinner), are they supposed to connect?

I would say that nylon hose plugs into the rubber hose. This hose supplies vacuum to the fuel pressure regulator and would probably explain the chug and bad fuel consumption. Juxt plug them together.
 

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Premium Member 2001 SLK200K/2001 SLK320
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2,091 Posts
Hi... Thanks for responding. Sorry if I sound dumb asking, but when you say "this hose supplies to the fuel pressure regulator", are you referring to hose 1 or 2 in the photo? They are two different size hoses (hose #2 is thinner), are they supposed to connect?

Ummm .. ignore the blue and the red arrows ..

230_fpr.jpg


HTH
 

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Premium Member 2002 R170 SLK V8 5.0
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3,175 Posts
Just to add to this, your "radiator light" and the fact that you have changed the Cooling Fan itself is now pointing to the Fan Controller, which is an aluminium box which is bolted to the inner wing and where the Fan wiring plugs in.

Shame you bought that Autel without asking, it simply doesn't read or do much at all on these cars, more so on the early ones, the machine you need to access all areas and do everything is called SDS, and a clone system can be set up reasonably cheaply, like £400 or less for all the components.

SDS would have eliminated the need to buy the fan unit, as it does various tests ;)

Discussed in many places around the forum ;)
 

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Registered 1998 SLK230
Joined
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60 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Thanks a million, Dave! The reason that I purchased the Autel was because of a thread in here ;) Guess I'll be returning it. :)

As far as the fan controller, that is the part that I mentioned and called a "relay sensor" (sorry for my non-mechanical terminology) that we had swapped out with one that was pulled out of a 2002 model. So to date, we've swapped out both the controller and the fan, and even switched back and forth between the parts we pulled, and the original ones on the car.

Anything else we can look for? Visibly from the top, the wiring/harness looks OK.

Thanks!




Just to add to this, your "radiator light" and the fact that you have changed the Cooling Fan itself is now pointing to the Fan Controller, which is an aluminium box which is bolted to the inner wing and where the Fan wiring plugs in.

Shame you bought that Autel without asking, it simply doesn't read or do much at all on these cars, more so on the early ones, the machine you need to access all areas and do everything is called SDS, and a clone system can be set up reasonably cheaply, like £400 or less for all the components.

SDS would have eliminated the need to buy the fan unit, as it does various tests ;)

Discussed in many places around the forum ;)
 

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Super Moderator CA 2012 SLK55 AMG w/P30
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14,211 Posts
Keep in mind learning/using SDS may/will require a fairly steep learning curve (of course, that depends on who is using it (y) )
 

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Registered 1998 SLK230
Joined
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60 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Yeah - I was just reading up on it, and although it would be incredibly useful if I knew what I was doing, but in my hands, it would be an expensive paperweight. I had a hard enough time making sense of the cheap Walmart one that my friend has been using. It's like a remake of Dumb and Dumber over here.... ;)



Keep in mind learning/using SDS may/will require a fairly steep learning curve (of course, that depends on who is using it (y) )
 

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Premium Member 2002 R170 SLK V8 5.0
Joined
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3,175 Posts
The Fan is controlled by a PWM Signal from the Engine ECU (ME), so the only other thing you can check without using SDS is the Pre Fuses in the little black box in front of the Battery, one of those is for the Cooling Fan, I cannot remember exactly which, but don't just replace it, it usually blows if Fan Motor or Controller is dead, so make sure you swap both parts for the "new ones" !!
 

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Super Moderator CA 2012 SLK55 AMG w/P30
Joined
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14,211 Posts
That's why I personally went with the same unit you did: can read more codes to give me an idea of what a real mechanic is telling me what is wrong BEFORE he tells me what is wrong. If you get my meaning 😉
 

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Premium Member 2002 R170 SLK V8 5.0
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3,175 Posts
But you have a 2012 SLK Len, the iCs is quite good on the later MB's because they have better CAN Buses and they communicate differently using different protocols to the old MB's, the old ones require SDS (with HHT - Win program) to access important regularly faulty systems like PSE, VR, ATA, KI to name but a few, so iCs will only see stuff like ABS / ESP, ME and Trans, it cannot access all the other modules I mentioned ;)
 

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Premium Member 2001 SLK200K/2001 SLK320
Joined
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2,091 Posts
TBF to the Autel MD Series they are pretty good, not as good as SDS (nothing is) but you may well need the proper RED fully-wired 38pin Autel adapter lead and not a generic black one to get the most out of it on your pre-FL R170 .. and I wish you the best of luck in trying to find one (y)
 

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Registered 1998 SLK230
Joined
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60 Posts
Discussion Starter #17
Thanks. I did buy a generic black 38 pin adapter. Maybe I'll go ahead now and return that and get the red Autel one.

TBF to the Autel MD Series they are pretty good, not as good as SDS (nothing is) but you may well need the proper RED fully-wired 38pin Autel adapter lead and not a generic black one to get the most out of it on your pre-FL R170 .. and I wish you the best of luck in trying to find one (y)
 

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Premium Member 2001 SLK200K/2001 SLK320
Joined
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2,091 Posts
Thanks. I did buy a generic black 38 pin adapter. Maybe I'll go ahead now and return that and get the red Autel one.
I am assuming (I know, never assume anything) that you have the round 38pin socket under the bonnet/hood and no 16pin OBDII socket in the footwell by your left knee, near the hood release lever?

If that be the case ..

The genuine Autel Benz 38 adapter has almost reached a mythical status and is very hard to find but there are a couple of alternatives that may work and as long as they are fully wired, I dont see why they shouldn't work but it would still be a bit of a gamble ..

iCS - HERE - for example

Then there is a German lead on eBay - HERE - .. they talk the talk ..

HTH
 

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Registered 1998 SLK230
Joined
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60 Posts
Discussion Starter #19
Thanks M4....

Yes, I had the 38 pin socket under the hood, no 16 pin connected at all, car running.

Yes, I started to do a search for that Autel adapter, only to find none of those, and fakes from China. Thanks for the links!





I am assuming (I know, never assume anything) that you have the round 38pin socket under the bonnet/hood and no 16pin OBDII socket in the footwell by your left knee, near the hood release lever?

If that be the case ..

The genuine Autel Benz 38 adapter has almost reached a mythical status and is very hard to find but there are a couple of alternatives that may work and as long as they are fully wired, I dont see why they shouldn't work but it would still be a bit of a gamble ..

iCS - HERE - for example

Then there is a German lead on eBay - HERE - .. they talk the talk ..

HTH
 

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Registered 1998 SLK230
Joined
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60 Posts
Discussion Starter #20
The Fan is controlled by a PWM Signal from the Engine ECU (ME), so the only other thing you can check without using SDS is the Pre Fuses in the little black box in front of the Battery, one of those is for the Cooling Fan, I cannot remember exactly which, but don't just replace it, it usually blows if Fan Motor or Controller is dead, so make sure you swap both parts for the "new ones" !!
Do you think you could provide instructions on how to check that, or a photo of what I'm to look for? Or has this been covered here in the forum already?
 
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