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Discussion Starter #1
Hi Everyone,

I’ve done a search and have found posts regarding the partition, but not close the trunk lid error.

Some background first, today I had a bike rack on the trunk and while it was on I was fiddling with the roof switch and the roof started to close, of course it didn’t move much since it had the rack and bike on it. I cancelled it as soon as I realized what was happening. Took the rack off, closed the roof and put the rack back on. I don’t think that is the cause, but the roof was working flawlessly before today.

Later in the day I took the rack off and was lowering the roof. At that point I received a close trunk lid error. I went to the back and opened and closed the trunk and everything operated as normal. I had the roof open and closed a couple more times without issue. This last time I lowered it and got the error, opened and closed the trunk and it lowered. Now the roof is stuck in the lowered position and I get the close trunk lid error. I looked in the trunk and can’t see anything broken or bent. The partition is in place and seated properly. I disconnected the battery and still have the issue. The rear windows will also not go up. The main windows will go up and down using the roof switch.

Not sure what to do now. I want to avoid manually raising it. Any suggestions?

Thanks
Cyrus
 

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There is a "trunk closed" switch in the latch, and the wire for that switch is prone to breakage due to constant flexing. If you open your lid you'll see, on the left side, a woven sheath where the wires transit the lids hinge. Cut the sheath away and feel for a break in each and every wire.
 

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Discussion Starter #5


I just took the tape off, lo and behold, the blue wire is disconnected. Not having worked a ton with electrical, what is the best fix? Would I need to solder it back together or is there a better way? Is there a fix to prevent it from happening again?

Pic of the wires are below

Thanks again

Cyrus





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strip and splice it and see if that fixes issue

if it does, then go for permanent fix... twist and tape it :D
 

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to keep from happening again?
retape whole loom and see how it should be properly threaded around trunk joints/hinges
 

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Find someone to solder in a short segment of stranded wire. Shouldn't take more than a few minutes.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
I saw a post saying if you don't have solder you can twist the ends tight and then glue gun it. I ended up doing that and then put a heat shrink over top. It was previously fixed which leads me to believe that u will have to replace the loom at some point.
This brings me to the next question where to the wires lead? Is it like a stereo and all I have to do is run a new loom and plug a harness into the ends or do the wires split off and run all over the car?

Thanks again for everyone's help. My handy work is below

Thanks

Cyrus




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I saw a post saying if you don't have solder you can twist the ends tight and then glue gun it. I ended up doing that and then put a heat shrink over top. It was previously fixed which leads me to believe that u will have to replace the loom at some point.
This brings me to the next question where to the wires lead? Is it like a stereo and all I have to do is run a new loom and plug a harness into the ends or do the wires split off and run all over the car?

Thanks again for everyone's help. My handy work is below

Thanks

Cyrus




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Loom plugs in rear SAM and vario roof controller I guess. Located near the firewall. Maybe some more if you have satellite radio.


 

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I saw a post saying if you don't have solder you can twist the ends tight and then glue gun it. I ended up doing that and then put a heat shrink over top. It was previously fixed which leads me to believe that u will have to replace the loom at some point.
This brings me to the next question where to the wires lead? Is it like a stereo and all I have to do is run a new loom and plug a harness into the ends or do the wires split off and run all over the car?

Thanks again for everyone's help. My handy work is below

Thanks

Cyrus




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
Well I would not replace the whole loom. I would make the repair before and after the part which is stressed by the opening of the roof. I would take like 1 meter of similar cable and make the solder connection near the thule which goes in the lid and then push it into the lid and on the other side make a similar repair so the stressed part is new and would last another 10 years.
 

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I wouldn't replace the whole harness/loom either. But I would not use electrical tape as you did - friction tape and/or zip ties are more appropriate. And I would dress it up a little bit so the wires can't catch anything.
 

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Just nitpicking, I would have done several things different. Looking at the picture, the blue wire is now shorter than the rest. That causes the rest of the wires to bend at about 80 degrees, creating a stress point. I would have preferred to see a piece added to the blue wire so there is a smooth curve and less stress at one point.

Ed
 

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Hi
good day


WOW! your pictures are super clear.!!
wish everyone post pictures like yours, super clear.


Thank you & have a nice day


ps: from phone camera ? or a DSLR camera?
 

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Hi
Good day
Wow another super clear picture.


The best is to solder it back but not directly.


Add an inch or two to the wire so it would not be under tension.
Before doing so, slot a heat shirk tubing over it ( about 3 inches length)


When done just heat it up.

Then it will last forever.


Do NOT use insulation tape as it will come off over a period of time due heat.
Hate insulation tape, give more problem in later stage.


But if you must use insulation tape,

please use cable tie to tie it down to prevent it from unfolding out.


Thank you & have a nice day
 

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I saw a post saying if you don't have solder you can twist the ends tight and then glue gun it. I ended up doing that and then put a heat shrink over top. It was previously fixed which leads me to believe that u will have to replace the loom at some point.
This brings me to the next question where to the wires lead? Is it like a stereo and all I have to do is run a new loom and plug a harness into the ends or do the wires split off and run all over the car?

Thanks again for everyone's help. My handy work is below

Thanks

Cyrus




Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk

Hi
good day


Well all I can say is another super clear picture.
But, argghh, sorry mate, really bad bad job done.
Hope no offense taken.



You should have extended the wire (soldering) then wrap it with
insulation tape or heat shirking tubing.



Then use cable tie to tie it down at about an inch spacing.
Especially the ending part whereby it will tends to

unfold aver a period of time.



If I were to be doing this for my car,


1) I will cut all the wires at different length - place (there is a reason for this)


2) slot a heat shirk tubing (big one)and another one (slightly bigger one) over all the wires.
(there is a reason for this, too, maybe not necessary

if a long length of one big heat shirking tubing can be pushed all the way into the trunk.
and when all done. slid the tubing back to a good position that will cover all wires nicely)


3) slot in heat shirk tubing into each and every one of the wires
4)solder them back & make sure they are of equal length
5) heat the heat-shirking tubing so it will give a very tight insulation
(no way it will come off)



6) finally heat the heat-shirking tubing which were slot earlier over all the wires.


For the right size of the heat shirking tubing, well, you have to figure it out yourself.


With soldering & heat shirking tubing, it is just as good as new.


Thank you & have a nice day
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Hi
good day


Well all I can say is another super clear picture.
But, argghh, sorry mate, really bad bad job done.
Hope no offense taken.



You should have extended the wire (soldering) then wrap it with
insulation tape or heat shirking tubing.



Then use cable tie to tie it down at about an inch spacing.
Especially the ending part whereby it will tends to

unfold aver a period of time.



If I were to be doing this for my car,


1) I will cut all the wires at different length - place (there is a reason for this)


2) slot a heat shirk tubing (big one)and another one (slightly bigger one) over all the wires.
(there is a reason for this, too, maybe not necessary

if a long length of one big heat shirking tubing can be pushed all the way into the trunk.
and when all done. slid the tubing back to a good position that will cover all wires nicely)


3) slot in heat shirk tubing into each and every one of the wires
4)solder them back & make sure they are of equal length
5) heat the heat-shirking tubing so it will give a very tight insulation
(no way it will come off)



6) finally heat the heat-shirking tubing which were slot earlier over all the wires.


For the right size of the heat shirking tubing, well, you have to figure it out yourself.


With soldering & heat shirking tubing, it is just as good as new.


Thank you & have a nice day


Hi,

No offence taken since I’m learning. I did the quick fix since my top was stuck open and I wasn’t sure what the weather was going to do. My long term plan was either replace the whole loom or extend the problem wire(s) so they would be the same length as the original wires. I’m leaning towards extending the one wire.

First I need to get some of the same gauge wire and learn to solder. I then plan to “replace” the wire that had to be snipped off so that the repaired wire will be the same length as the original wires and can then be taped to the other wires so they flex together. Once they are taped together I will put all the wires back into the plastic guide.

The issue with the heat shrink tubing on the last fix is that there was no flex from the heat shrink tube and the wire was shorter causing it to flex against the hard shrink wrap tubing, which is where it broke. I believe that as long as there is enough wire at the flex point so that it bends “softly” instead of at a hard angle I won’t have the same issue.

If someone has done a fix on this already or has a better idea, please let me know.

Thanks
Cyrus
 
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