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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Getting recurrent CEL throwing the following codes and descriptions:

P2006: Manifold runner control stuck close bank 1a

P2187: System too lean at idle bank 1

P2189 - System too lean at idle bank 2

I cleared the codes and replaced the air filters, but the CEL and codes reappeared on the return leg of a work commute (wife's car). Had this same thing happened 2 years ago and new air filters cured it. Not this time.:frown:
 

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Discussion Starter · #4 ·

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Registered 2006 SLK280
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What others are referring to is the actuating arms for the intake manifold tumbler flaps, which are vacuum-operated and open or close according to RPMs to improve combustion efficiency. The actuating arms are plastic parts on the outside of manifold which can break; a silly design oversight rooted in the Dark Years practices of the Chrysler merger. Mercedes will replace the whole manifold; threads here cover an aftermarket solution with more durable metal parts that can be retro-fitted to the manifold. You'll need an indy shop to do that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
What others are referring to is the actuating arms for the intake manifold tumbler flaps, which are vacuum-operated and open or close according to RPMs to improve combustion efficiency. The actuating arms are plastic parts on the outside of manifold which can break; a silly design oversight rooted in the Dark Years practices of the Chrysler merger. Mercedes will replace the whole manifold; threads here cover an aftermarket solution with more durable metal parts that can be retro-fitted to the manifold. You'll need an indy shop to do that.
Can you provide links to threads on this?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Alright, got the replacement actuator installed. However, in the removal process, broke a tab off one side of the MAF. Also had the upper left plastic hose bib break off in the manifold as I was lifting it out to gain access.

Do I need to replace the MAF?

How do I remove and repair the plastic hose bib?
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
MAF=$150, J.B. Weld=$7...

Air leaks here will kill you, so make sure it seals tight.
JB Weld will not work on this. I found MAFs on ebay for $107. Not a big deal.

More important issue is that manifold vacuum line plastic fitting. I replied to another thread on this and it's now at the top of the page.
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·

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Thanks for the description link, but how do I make the change?
go to usercp at the top
then edit your options

then choose

Thread display - linear oldest first

then save/submit at the bottom

then when you go to any new post/thread, the oldest will be at the top
then click the button top left that says

View First Unread

it will take u to the 1st post you have not read in that thread :D

to change to blue view?

bottom left
drop down menu
change to legacy view
 

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Discussion Starter · #16 ·
So I got this put back together and it runs, but rough. Code P0300: Multiple misfires, cylinders 1, 2, and 3. I'm going to take it to my independent mechanic. I'm thinking injectors are not sealing properly.
 

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2005 SLK55 AMG /2005 SLK350
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Man - rotten luck. Keep swinging.

Did you put new gaskets in?

Hearing any hissing?

You can squirt a little light oil on the injectors if you want to test the seals there.
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Man - rotten luck. Keep swinging.

Did you put new gaskets in?

Hearing any hissing?

You can squirt a little light oil on the injectors if you want to test the seals there.
Yes I put new gaskets in. I can hear air back at the elbow the MAF connects to. I went and took that apart all the way to the manifold and reinstalled. Also pulled and reinstalled the injectors. Still runs rough at idle.

Cleared and pulled new codes:

P0302 and P0303: Misfires cylinders 2 and 3.

P2015: Intake Manifold Runner Position Sensor Switch Circuit Ranger Performance Bank 1a.

Drove it over to my independent Mercedes Mechanic, but he was closed today. It's back in the garage.

I thought I'd have time to smog my diesel Suburban today, but this sucked all my time. Time for an adult beverage.:frown:
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Update from this AM. As suggested by HUWhitaker, I checked the Swirl Flap Sensor plugs at the back of each side of the manifold. Sure enough, missed plugging in the plug on the driver's side sensor. It's located under a large bundle of the wiring harness and thus easy to miss. Got that plugged in. Fired it up and it's still running rough at idle, though not as bad. Cleared codes and the P2015 Sensor Code no longer appears. Still have a misfire code on Cylinder 3.

Checked the function of the tumbler actuator, as the though was maybe a misaligned gasket was interfering with their operation. It's working and has full range. I lined up the (new) gaskets using a flashlight and Phillips head screwdriver down the injector holes, wiggling the manifold. They're lined up and all bolts fit.

Last thought was vacuum lines cracked or leaking. None of the vacuum lines were cracked. I checked the one with the plastic fitting that broke and made sure it's pushed on. So pretty sure that's not the problem.

One last area is the sensor (?) located above the idler pulley for the serp belt (see pics). It has hoses going into it and one electrical plug. There's an open hose receptor, but I can't find a hose in the area. I do seem to recall that there was a hose or something that went into this. Could use some help here on this.



 
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