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Discussion Starter #1
I'm sure the problem is somewhere between the key lock and the latch where that arm pulls the latch open. I can push the lock in all the way without a problem, but it's not disengaging the latch. I wish the cargo cover were closed so I could just bring the top down, but it's not. The MB dealership said they can't override the electronics to make the top go down and all they can do is drill the lock.

My question is how hard is it to drill the lock myself? I haven't done it before, but I'm sure I can destroy a lock myself with a Dremel for less than $100 an hour. But then I don't know where the dealership would go after that. If that arm has fallen away from the lock where it can't be pulled to disengage the latch, how do I get to that latch through the hole no longer occupied by the the key lock? Or, is there a way to get to the trunk from behind the seats where I can pull the cover closed to bring down the roof?
 

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I dont have any tips on what to do after drilling out the trunk lock tumblers to open the trunk. Plus once you drill out the lock, at some point you are going to have to replace the lock if you want to lock your trunk again.

I would suggest finding a locksmith who does this kind of work and see what he would charge for the work. I would guess a locksmith would charge less per hour and might charge less time than the stealership will charge you. Also the locksmiths are usually pretty happy to travel to your car, saving having to get an appointment and get back and forth with the MB dealer.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Thanks. Tried the locksmith route at first. Nobody wants to touch a Mercedes, even to drill it. That leaves the mechanics and dealership that are all qouting $90-$105/hr and say it's a 3-4 hour job. I'll try more locksmiths, but it seems like all the different names and numbers still lead to the same three businesses.

I'm not real concerned with replacing the lock at the moment. Once the cargo cover is in place I'll still have access to the little bit I use. I really want the top down. I suppose if I did drill all the way through the lock, maybe I could fit a wire into the hole and be able to pull the cover. Sounds tedious, but maybe that's the answer. The weather is too nice for the coupe.
 

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Well if you drill the lock then you simply need a new one and it set for your key. I don't know if there is a way to overide the boot cover but I'm wondering if there is a fuse for those switches and if immobilising them would work.. doubt it but worth a try.
I don't think theres an easy way through from behind the seats either.
 

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Premium Member 2000 SLK230 Over 100,000 miles!!!
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If you have the time...
I think you can access the trunk if you remove the wall behind the seats that hold the speakers.

Do a search for "roll bar removale" or "rear speakers".

Then you could use a broom stick to push the rear cover into place allowing you to open top.

Then you could see if something is jammed in the lock.

Not sure this will work but it is what I would look into doing.
 

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may sound stupid but you do know the key doesnt open the trunk right? theres a hand latch next to the keyhole. if you can get your key in the lock and turn it there should be no need to drill the lock. its the latch thats messing up not the lock
 

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Premium Member 2002 SLK230K
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Try pushing down on the trunk lid as you turn the key, you might get lucky if not you have to bypass the switch for the privacy curtin.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Thanks everyone. Talked to the service manager at the dealership and he still says there's no way he can bypass the computer to think the cover is closed. Says he has to drill the lock out and use the hole to work the latch open. I was just about to drill it out myself, now I've decided instead I'm going to cut a hole into the trunk behind the license plate. I'd rather make a patch myself that won't be seen than pay for the lock to be drilled, replaced, and rekeyed. I know the parts are all still good in there, just not all screwed in the right place.
 

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Founding Member #2 2008 SLK55 AMG
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Thanks everyone. Talked to the service manager at the dealership and he still says there's no way he can bypass the computer to think the cover is closed. Says he has to drill the lock out and use the hole to work the latch open. I was just about to drill it out myself, now I've decided instead I'm going to cut a hole into the trunk behind the license plate. I'd rather make a patch myself that won't be seen than pay for the lock to be drilled, replaced, and rekeyed. I know the parts are all still good in there, just not all screwed in the right place.
Would be curious to see photos on how this is done.
 

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If I understand you, you need to get into the boot (trunk to you, I expect!) by using the roof opening procedure, but your luggage cover is rolled up. If so, it is perfectly possible to fool the electronic roof control module in order to open the boot even with the luggage cover in its rolled up state, by intercepting the lead from the module to the microswitch controlled by the pull-out cover. When the cover is in the pulled out position, the microswitch S69/10 in the boot connects the wire from the module to ground. So what you have to do is trace that wire back in the engine compartment just before it joins the control module (shown in the wiring diagrams as part N10-3), in the plastic box beside the battery, and connect it to ground from there temporarily. What I did was to slide a needle through the insulation around the wire so that it made good contact with the wire, and use a mini crocodile clip to attach a grounded length of cable to the needle.
The wire in question is grey with a violet tracer and is connected to point 54 on the module. You have to detach the multi-cable connector from the top of the module to trace the wire, and then you use the vario roof knob as usual to start the roof/boot opening sequence.
Best of luck, and I hope I'm not too late, and that this saves you from unnecessarily damaging your boot-lid!:Beer:
 

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Discussion Starter #13
Dog1940, that's awesome, thanks. I did cut into the trunk already. Just about an inch square low and center behind the plate. Took all of 3 minutes to cut and 2 seconds to pop the latch with a screwdriver. Oh well, I'll seal it up after I piece back together what went wrong and it's character only I will know about. I am more than disappointed that the dealership's only solution was to destroy multiple parts and take many labor hours for a needless job when all I asked was that the chip think the cargo cover was closed. But I'm happy again with the top down, that counts for a lot.
 

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Glad you managed without mangling the tin too badly :). I'm just sorry I didn't read your original post sooner, and get the info up in time for you :(.
Anyway, maybe it'll help someone else later:Banane37:
 

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It certainly did for me today. Would have been bolloxed without that info. Watch out for my tale of woe coming soon. Bless your knowledge and willingness to impart it.
L
 

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Im in a similar situation The trunk doesnt open and top wont go down already tried the S69/10 ground but no go - all windows roll down and thats about it

at this point I need to get the Trunk open somehow

the keyhole / push button doesnt do anything and the key doesnt turn

Im planning to cut a hole but once I do how do I pop the latch?

"Took all of 3 minutes to cut and 2 seconds to pop the latch with a screwdriver. "

I dont want to be stuck with a hole
 

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I'm bringing this post back from the dead.

My trunk is not opening and I can't use the top to get in to it. One of my hydraulic actuators has a leak. Lucky me.

So, can anybody give me a clue as to where I should drill a hole to get the lock popped? Walt said "Just about an inch square low and center behind the plate" but if somebody could verify with a picture that I'm not going to destroy something else that would be great.
 

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Administrator 2009 SLK 55 AMG/Founding Member 2006
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Ha!

Yes I tried the key. That and swearing like a sailor did nothing. I even begged and pleaded with it. :crying:
 

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Administrator 2009 SLK 55 AMG/Founding Member 2006
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what happens with the key? i mean, does it not turn in the lock? members have used a good wd-40 soaking and that frees it up usually
 
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