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Discussion Starter #1
Just gone to move the car to give it a wash and I can't gain access. The door actuators wont work.

I used the car a couple of days ago and had a problem with the interior lights...won't come on for some reason. At he same time the dash light came on to give me a nudge that there was a light issue somewhere. This could be related to my current problem.

There is a light emmitting from the key fob when I press both the lock and unlock buttons so assuming, dangerous game I know, that the problem doesn't lay there.

I would have thought that I'd have been able to gain access to the cabin by using the key in the door lock...old fashioned but worth a go...but that wouldn't work either. The key wont turn the barrel pins! Tried the boot lock too....no luck there either.

Has the battery drained due the light problems? Who knows!

With no access to the cabin I can't release the bonnet to check the battery!

Help please!
 

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Administrator 2009 SLK 55 AMG/Founding Member 2006
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obviously u need a new battery
squirt some wd40 into the door lock and use the fob key
you will probably have to soak it as it has probably never been used

light on keyfob just means the key fob batteries are good
 

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Administrator 2009 SLK 55 AMG/Founding Member 2006
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Discussion Starter #5
I've soaked the door lock and gave it a peridic wiggle...so far it's still not budging. I'll keep trying...no choice really!
 

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Administrator 2009 SLK 55 AMG/Founding Member 2006
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I've soaked the door lock and gave it a peridic wiggle...so far it's still not budging. I'll keep trying...no choice really!
other mb or a locksmith
 

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Super Moderator UK SLK 55 AMG 2007
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I've soaked the door lock and gave it a peridic wiggle...so far it's still not budging. I'll keep trying...no choice really!

It's common that the manual keys don't work.
We never use them and the muck builds up seizing the mech.


Takes repetitive attempts.
Be careful not to use too much pressure and snap the key.


Some clever clogs add it to their routine maint schedule.
Wish I was that smart :D
 

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Super Moderator CA 2012 SLK55 AMG w/P30
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Yes, it's amazing how often it doesn't turn. Gotta remember to do that "rotation" on both
alarm-equipped cars that open with key fobs :wink:
 

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Registered 1998 SLK230/2000 SLK230/2012 SLK250
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It's common that the manual keys don't work.
We never use them and the muck builds up seizing the mech.


Takes repetitive attempts.
Be careful not to use too much pressure and snap the key.


Some clever clogs add it to their routine maint schedule.
Wish I was that smart :D
The valet key is totally worth the $30 in situations like these.
 

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Just gone to move the car to give it a wash and I can't gain access. The door actuators wont work.

I used the car a couple of days ago and had a problem with the interior lights...won't come on for some reason. At he same time the dash light came on to give me a nudge that there was a light issue somewhere. This could be related to my current problem.

There is a light emmitting from the key fob when I press both the lock and unlock buttons so assuming, dangerous game I know, that the problem doesn't lay there.

I would have thought that I'd have been able to gain access to the cabin by using the key in the door lock...old fashioned but worth a go...but that wouldn't work either. The key wont turn the barrel pins! Tried the boot lock too....no luck there either.

Has the battery drained due the light problems? Who knows!

With no access to the cabin I can't release the bonnet to check the battery!

Help please!
Was just discussing this very issue in another thread. http://www.slkworld.com/slk-r171-general-discussion/417417-manual-key-problem-2.html#post3485362 Exact same thing happened to me. Once the bat. goes dead the only way to get in is the key but mine does not work either. Call a locksmith. They will probably charge you around $60 to "break in" to your car. MB charges around $160.
 

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Discussion Starter #11
The latest on this saga is as follows:
Loads of plus gas in both locks to no avail.

The car is now sitting on axle stands with the belly pan off. I've reversed charged the battery via a battery charger connected to the starter motor and the gearbox earth strap. As soon as it was connected the car alarm went off. Is the battery ok.? I suspect it is. On the charger it went from high charge input to fully charged quite quickly. I was hoping that a little bit of charge would have enabled the central locking to engage and allow me access. How wrong was I?

I've also changed the batteries in the fob....the doors still dont work.

Have you guys got any more ideas?
 

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Registered 2005 SLK350-sold
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The car is now sitting on axle stands with the belly pan off. I've reversed charged the battery via a battery charger connected to the starter motor and the gearbox earth strap. As soon as it was connected the car alarm went off. Is the battery ok.? I suspect it is. On the charger it went from high charge input to fully charged quite quickly. I was hoping that a little bit of charge would have enabled the central locking to engage and allow me access. How wrong was I?
That sounds like a great idea, I'd stick with it, try charging it again, and letting the alarm go off. It has its own battery. Do a volts check on the starter connection first, I'd have to check wiring diagram to see if that is +12v always or not, you might have been powering the car, not charging the battery. I assume you hammered away on the remote while it was going off, did you also try the trunk button?
 

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Discussion Starter #13
I most certainly did hammer the remote when the alarm went off.

When I get up tomorow I'll be doing it all over again.

Not sure how to do a volts check on the stater though. I do have a volt meter somewher but don't pretend to understand how to use it.
 

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Registered 2005 SLK350-sold
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I most certainly did hammer the remote when the alarm went off.

When I get up tomorow I'll be doing it all over again.

Not sure how to do a volts check on the stater though. I do have a volt meter somewher but don't pretend to understand how to use it.
Set it to a volts scale over 12 volts, probably 0-20 or something like that, DC, just so the high end is over 15. Touch the leads to any battery you have to see if it works, then put the black on any bare metal part of the engine/transmission and the red + wire to the terminal on the starter, if you see anything up to 14V without the charger connected, go ahead and hook up the charger.
Play with your meter on a 9V battery so you are familiar with how it works before you crawl under. Post a picture of it and your charger.
 

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Registered 2005 SLK350-sold
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997 Posts
On your starter the solenoid should have 2 wires correct? A very large one, possibly black, that is the one straight to the battery, and should be 12V or higher but could be much lower on a totally dead battery.
The other smaller wire would come from the Pulse Module? (might be Violet/White?) to energize the solenoid when starting the car. Don't connect charger to that one.
How long did the alarm go off, and did you shut it off, did it quit, or did it fade out and die?

One other thing, are you sure you have the correct key? Do you have another to try? That would explain everything!
I know of people that would prank me like that.
 

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Registered 2000 SLK200K
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358 Posts
can you open the trunk with the key? usually trunk locks don't fail so often like the door locks.

if you can, reach the pse pump, gently take out the hose for any of the doors and blow through it, lock will pop.

(the middle hose goes to drivers' as far as I remember)

this was the solution I found when mercedes offered me to break and replace the window.

best of luck!
 

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Discussion Starter #18
The alarm went off for about 30 seconds and then stopped. It didn't fade and die.

I connected the charger to the big black wire, making sure it wasn't in contact with anything else.

The correct key!!! How would I know if it's the correct key for the car? As for the spare key...typically, whether it's a worldwide thing or perculiar to the UK...when I bought the car (used) it only came with one.

No...I still can't gain access to the boot.
 

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Discussion Starter #19
Having found my multi meter I've discovered that it's faulty. Every setting no matter where you turn the dial reads zero...even when connected to a fully charged car battery and a brand new 9 and 1.5 volt battery.

So what I've done is connect the battery charger up aagin to the big terminal on the starter motor and the gearbox earth lead and fired it up. It charged for several hours at 3-4A but I still cant get in.
 

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Registered 2005 SLK350-sold
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The alarm went off for about 30 seconds and then stopped. It didn't fade and die.

I connected the charger to the big black wire, making sure it wasn't in contact with anything else.

The correct key!!! How would I know if it's the correct key for the car? As for the spare key...typically, whether it's a worldwide thing or perculiar to the UK...when I bought the car (used) it only came with one.

No...I still can't gain access to the boot.
OK, I would check voltage on the black starter wire and if under 12 volts, definitely try to charge it that way. And for kicks throw new batteries in the keyfob.
My Crossfire flaked out once and would start then die as if the security system didn't recognize the key transponder. I was able to open the door, then hood and disconnect battery to reset everything and it worked fine after that. I also ordered a spare 2nd key for peace of mind as well.
If you can't get the hood open, one other idea that would be a reach but may work is this. (and full disclaimers, I have no idea if this will work ;-) but I would try it if desperate)
Wire up something like a headlamp bulb or a couple of them, and connect it to the 12v wire at the starter and to ground (earth). Let them run the battery down until dead, then charge it, maybe that would reset everything?
And I would keep fiddling with the key in the door, and look into getting another key made, and working transponder for emergencies.
 
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