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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
Now on to the next job of replacing the front brake callipers, hoses and new suspension bushes. Started by taking off the OS brake calliper (ball of rust). Everything rusted up so took a while freeing up things BUT......why oh why did Mercedes ....in their infinite wisdom..... decide to use counter sunk torx bolts to secure the pad wear and speed sensors. Their totally rusted up and not going anywhere. UK salty roads in winter certainly take their toll :surprise:At least with a hex head bolt you would have something to work with but these torx bolts suck! If I want to try and save the sensors I'm going to have to drill out each bolt.....what a pain....unless anyone knows some other method?? :frown:


IMG_20181121_155917290 by Gary Laird, on Flickr
Look at the state of the backing plate (new one to be fitted!)


IMG_20181121_155939766 by Gary Laird, on Flickr
Brake wear sensor bolt!


IMG_20181121_160012507 by Gary Laird, on Flickr
Speed sensor fixings!


IMG_20181121_160156199 by Gary Laird, on Flickr
Backing plate fixings!


IMG_20181121_160702892 by Gary Laird, on Flickr
Do you think that hose was ever going to come out of that calliper!


IMG_20181121_160837663 by Gary Laird, on Flickr
Overview
 

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Super Moderator CA 2012 SLK55 AMG w/P30
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It looks like it’s been on the bottom of the ocean for 30 years!
I was going to say, from the Titanic :surprise:
 

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AND MABEL
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A sorry sight Gary. :frown:

Looks like drilling is the only way forward. Good luck!

I always give Mabel a good wash down, making sure I give inside the wheel wells a good soaking, whenever I'm out in her over the salty season. Doesn't totally stop the corrosion, but seems to help keep it to a minimum.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
A sorry sight Gary. :frown:

Looks like drilling is the only way forward. Good luck!

I always give Mabel a good wash down, making sure I give inside the wheel wells a good soaking, whenever I'm out in her over the salty season. Doesn't totally stop the corrosion, but seems to help keep it to a minimum.

Hi Dave. The car actually came from your part of the world, sold by Mercedes Benz of Glasgow, and has spent all its life in the area until my ownership! It's obviously been a daily drive through all winters with little care taken to wash down the wheel arches. The local council clearly love their salt.....with everything :laugh:
Actually as bad as it looks there was nothing wrong and the car drives fine......I just can't leave well enough alone knowing the horror that lives behind the wheels. Hopefully with a bit of elbow grease and some $$$$ it will be looking great again. SORN off the road for the winter anyway so I've plenty of time to work on it! Now to get these f***king bolts out >:D
 

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Registered 2014 SLK 200
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@GaryLaird

Gary, not wishing to teach egg sucking but those bolts may not be as bad as they look. If you give them a good soaking in penetrating fluid and manage to get some of the encrustation off it could be possible to get the appropriate tool in/on. A sharp blow on the end of the bolt with a suitable drift, before trying to turn, sometimes does the trick.
I wish you luck:tu:
 

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Discussion Starter #8
@GaryLaird

Gary, not wishing to teach egg sucking but those bolts may not be as bad as they look. If you give them a good soaking in penetrating fluid and manage to get some of the encrustation off it could be possible to get the appropriate tool in/on. A sharp blow on the end of the bolt with a suitable drift, before trying to turn, sometimes does the trick.
I wish you luck:tu:

Well I admire you positivity sir but I've been at it today and its been a right ****


All bolts were well soaked in penetrating fluid yesterday but the sensor bolts as I already new had nothing left to grip on. Really too inaccessible to think about cutting a slot and of course no heat as their holding on the plastic sensor casing. So out with the drill and while they may have looked rusty on the outside there were hard enough to drill. Anyway they are now out I'm pleased to say. :smile:


:frown:However the three bolts holding on the back plate which, like you, I thought I could get away with penetrating fluid, tapping, heat/cool etc etc.......I tried it all before starting my first attempt and it made sod all difference. Again the inside of the bolts are just round. They are a bit more accessible so maybe possible to cut a slot in them to get a big screwdriver at them although I may prefer to drill them as it may be possible, once you've drill in far enough, that the bolt loosens a bit so you can get a pair of grips at the head of the bolt and are able to turn it out. What I don't want is the head of the bolt sheared off as I would like to avoid drilling and tapping the main steering knuckle as I'm obviously keeping that. :frown:
Enough for the day as I need to get some new sharp steel drill bits.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Well fun day today! I think picture below sums things up nicely.....I had to throw every tool in the box to get this suspension apart. The ball joints were fused to the steering knuckle. Had to separate the top wishbone arm and the steering knuckle off the car...and it took a sledge harmer and a ball joint splitter to do it. Did not even get the lower arm off yet.....saving that for tomorrow......can't wait :rolleyes:


IMG_20181124_170223570 by Gary Laird, on Flickr
 

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Discussion Starter #12
:surprise: You sure it hasn't been submerged for 30 years Gary?
At the very least parked down on the beach when the tide came in >:D
Actually despite the wheel arch components being in a shocking state rust wise the bodywork around the wheel arch is not too bad at all....which is a relief. There has been a historical weld repair to the upper spring housing where the red oxide paint is but it all looks sound. Once I get the lower suspension arm off I can get in there and give it all a good clean and treat any rust I find.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Are you familiar with Dinitrol? Gives a rust protection finish with an OEM appearance that is less messy and more resilient than Waxoyl. Has a dark grey/black appearance.

I did a bit of reading up on options for underseal and saw Dinitrol being recommended along side Dynax UB which I think is very similar so I have a can of the Dynax UB spray to try. I also have Bonda Zinc Rust Primer which was also highly recommended to use as an undercoat where required. Certainly will all look a lot better when done!
 
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