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Discussion Starter #1
My blower motor came on unexpectedly while driving in quite warm weather. The switch was in the off position and so were the temp controls. When I turned the car off the blower continued working even with the key out of the car. I left it for several minutes thinking it might have something to do with the high outdoor temps but it would not shut off until I pulled the 30 amp temp controller fuse. Several hours later I re-installed the fuse and the blower started again. Could this be caused by the fan regulator? How could it get power without the keys or ignition on?
 

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Premium Member 2006 SLK 280-sold
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Leapyfish's signature includes a lot of links for the R170. If you haven't already tried them that might help pass the time while you're waiting for a more specific answer.

Best Wishes
 

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Discussion Starter #4
I don't seem to have this button, certainly not on the speed control knob. There are 3 central buttons between the speed control and the flap position control, namely the rear window defrost, the EC mode switch and the recirculate switch, but neither of these makes any difference to the blower either with or without the ignition on. Are we talking about the same generation SLK?
 

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Administrator 2009 SLK 55 AMG/Founding Member 2006
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Discussion Starter #8
Great wealth of info there, many thanks for the links. I haven't found anything that directly relates, though there are some similar sounding complaints. I hauled out the motor and resistor pack but the motor is obviously working as it's running on high and the resistor pack is physically OK and I get resistance readings off 2 of the 3 center pins but I have a hard time imagining that the fault lays there. Something is feeding power to the circuit with out the car on and seems to also allow the temp solinoid on the drivers side to stay open even when the temp is set to cold. Could a bad ground connection lead to this sort of problem? I'm hesitant to start removing the climate control module from the dash without some reason to think the problem is there. Heck maybe I'll just park it for a while and get out the '69 250CE and make the SLK jealous if I thought that would help :tazz:
 

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Premium Member 2013 SLK250
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I don't seem to have this button, certainly not on the speed control knob. There are 3 central buttons between the speed control and the flap position control, namely the rear window defrost, the EC mode switch and the recirculate switch, but neither of these makes any difference to the blower either with or without the ignition on. Are we talking about the same generation SLK?

Opps wrong generation. I was thinking the 170 and 171 was very much alike. I was think the recirculate switch was on the fan control where it is a button in the middle. That was I thought might be stuck or depressed that could cause the fan to run after switch was tuned off. But you say that does not change when used. Guess you need to look else where.
 

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Premium Member 2004 SLK200K
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If you can get a hold of another control panel you could swap it out , might be a faulty switch /dial ???
 

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Registered 2012 SLK250-gone
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blower... you're talking about the fan that controls the air flow of outside air/AC/heat in the cabin I assume... first thing I thought of when you said blower was "supercharger? you put a supercharger on your SLK?" Then again, it could be a leaf blower too!
 

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Discussion Starter #12
Ummm isn't the kompressor a supercharger....I think it has one already... no?
In any case I was referring to the cabin blower :)
I tried driving without the fuse in again today and with the temp controls set to cold I was getting cold air through the vents without any fan but with the vents open or number 1 fan position. It is currently 33C or 90F outdoors, so strangely the A/C is still working even without this 30 amp fuse....seems like an awfully big fuse for just the fan motor so I was expecting hot air through the vents, yet last evening I was getting hot air in the drivers foot area even though the dials were set to cold. I've tried disconnecting the battery to see if it might reset to normal but no change....
 

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Premium Member 1998 SLK230
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L-Vez,
The A/C control module does control the fan, has any thing spilled on it?
other than swapping it out I cant think of anything else for a possible fix.

PS.
The last link in my signature is a repair manual for the Chrysler Crossfire, its the same chasis as your car w/3.2 liter engine aka SLK320 with a diffrent bodystyle.
there maybe an answer there.
 

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Discussion Starter #14
Thanks for the suggestion Leapyfish!
Nothing was spilled on the dash control or are you referring to a module under the hood? I haven't spilled anything there either but I was wondering if it could have been some kind of component failure related to heat. I had just come off an expressway in this hot weather and then was in stop and go for a few minutes before stopping for 10 minutes to wait for my daughter. It was right after re-starting that I noticed the fan on and proceeded to fiddle with it for the next few minutes while my daughter sent thought balloons about her distracted dad too busy to talk to her about her hectic day :)
 

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Registered 2012 SLK250-gone
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had the same thing happen to my Subaru Forrester 2001... It might have something to do with electrical - dial to vent has electrical layout prior to actuating a mechanical gate. I could also be shooting darts in the dark. Not really into being a garage mechanic sort of gal.

Ummm isn't the kompressor a supercharger....I think it has one already... no?
In any case I was referring to the cabin blower :)
I tried driving without the fuse in again today and with the temp controls set to cold I was getting cold air through the vents without any fan but with the vents open or number 1 fan position. It is currently 33C or 90F outdoors, so strangely the A/C is still working even without this 30 amp fuse....seems like an awfully big fuse for just the fan motor so I was expecting hot air through the vents, yet last evening I was getting hot air in the drivers foot area even though the dials were set to cold. I've tried disconnecting the battery to see if it might reset to normal but no change....
 

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Discussion Starter #16
I'm impressed! You have suggestions, that's garage mechanic talk to me:)
Whoa...I looked in your garage...now I'm awed:hail:
I do believe it is some kind of electrical gremlin and though I have done most of the maintenance and rebuilding on my old Benz's, the modern cars are just crazy packed with switches, sensors, actuators and computer modules...stuff that you can't physically tell is broken or not working and you can drive yourself crazy trying to trace down these gremlins because they are invisible......my hope is someone else has gone through this and can steer me right, otherwise the dealer burns a big hole in my pocket and "might" get it fixed after the second or third try and he's an hour and a half away and tells me I must leave the car and only come back when they call me, so how do I know if he actually spent 39 hours at $140/hr to change a bad component...:confused:
 

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Registered 2012 SLK250-gone
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thanks for the vote of confidence :)

- you might want to first check your radiator fins which affects the condenser - if you have a lot of road trash (i.e. bugs, plants, etc) in it, it will cause the condenser to heat up faster since the air flow over it is reduced - that will increase the pressure in the system (high temp = higher pressure given constant volume) resulting in increased temp of air coming into the cabin. use a pressure washer to clean it off.

- did you have your refrigerant recharged between when the car was bought new and today? if so, you could have an improperly filled refrigerant (usually on the low side). If you hear clicking, it means the compressor is still working but there's nothing there.

- might want to check for leaks somewhere in the system - it looks like you have a '99 .... so check the integrity of your hoses and if they look a little worn, one of your seals might need to be replaced. This sounds like a pain in the @$$ to diagnose if you ask me.

- if all else fails, start by replacing things one by one - beginning with the condenser.

btw - I work in health care - so I do my homework before giving my opinion, which is what I have done here for you. I am in no way a certified mechanic!! :tu:


I'm impressed! You have suggestions, that's garage mechanic talk to me:)
Whoa...I looked in your garage...now I'm awed:hail:
I do believe it is some kind of electrical gremlin and though I have done most of the maintenance and rebuilding on my old Benz's, the modern cars are just crazy packed with switches, sensors, actuators and computer modules...stuff that you can't physically tell is broken or not working and you can drive yourself crazy trying to trace down these gremlins because they are invisible......my hope is someone else has gone through this and can steer me right, otherwise the dealer burns a big hole in my pocket and "might" get it fixed after the second or third try and he's an hour and a half away and tells me I must leave the car and only come back when they call me, so how do I know if he actually spent 39 hours at $140/hr to change a bad component...:confused:
 

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Discussion Starter #18
Very Interesting..... as Henry Gibson used to say....
I was not thinking along those lines, the A/C seems to still produce cool air so I was looking elsewhere but this could all relate back to a problem with the A/C.
The link suggested by leapyfish to the service manual for the Crossfire does indeed have many pages of A/C troubleshooting, most requiring scanners or software but worth another read in the meantime....the dealer has a 4-6 week waiting list so I have time to really muck things up before they get a hold of it...
 

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Registered 2012 SLK250-gone
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your refrigerant does not need to totally be out to be caused by the aforementioned problems. Have you checked your radiator?
 

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Discussion Starter #20 (Edited)
I checked the rad today...pulled the grill and had a look, it wasn't very bad a few bugs but these grills seem to catch most of it before it gets to the rad....I tried to check the receiver but the bubble indicator was too dirty and discolored to be able to actually see. I'll try running the A/C this evening and see if it seems to be putting out normal cooling. With the fan on high it should respond pretty quickly. I don't remember hearing any clicking noises from the compressor but hopefully I'll be able to tell if it's working normally.

After re-installing the fuse and driving for 45 minutes, I'm fairly certain that A/C is functioning normally, fan speed was high with no change by turning the control except in the off position the ext. flaps closed normally. Seems like the fan speed switch is faulty but I'm surprised there would be power to it with the key out of the car....more sleuthing required
 
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