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Discussion Starter #1 (Edited)
I was over at my indy's over the weekend to have a look at the results after installing a Bilstein kit with Eibach springs.

The front drop is pretty easy to see, but the back not so much. Comparing the OE rear to the Eibach rear, the un-installed spring height was nearly identical.

I'm running p265/30/19's in the back and still have about an inch between the tire and the fender, pretty much the same as what I started with before setting the springs in place.

Anyone else using the Eibach's able to comment if they saw the same?

If this is all I get I might have to chop a 1/4 turn off the spring...
 

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Can't comment yet, but the kit is on the way from Germany as I write, and Sunhilde is waiting patiently for her new underpinnings. I ordered it three weeks ago and it is coming via DHL Air Mail service, so it ought to arrive soon. I'll take photos & measurements of ride height before & after. Have you asked whether or not there are alternate spring pads available? Mercedes-Benz used to have them in three or four different thicknesses for other cars, with the intent of keeping ride height the same while compensating for differing curb weights due to different options being fitted. Using a thinner spring pad could be combined with lowering springs to get a greater visual drop.
 

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Discussion Starter #3
Spring Pads

@Beekster,

That was the suggestion my indy made. I was curious what the tire gap to fender was that others found as well.

Anyone have a link to the spring pads so the thicknesses that are available can be (possibly) seen and referenced?
 

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Discussion Starter #4
So a little searching around and I found the part numbers and thickness' of the "spring pads", "spring insulator", "spring seat", "spring cup", and/or a "rubber ring", depending on what model Merc is being looked up.

Rear:
210-325-01-84 5mm
210-325-02-84 9mm
210-325-03-84 13mm
210-325-04-84 17mm
210-325-05-84 21mm

Using the Eibach's the front ride height appears to have dropped about 1" But of course I have to pull the rear springs back out to measure what's in the car now so I know what to install
 

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So a little searching around and I found the part numbers and thickness' of the "spring pads", "spring insulator", "spring seat", "spring cup", and/or a "rubber ring", depending on what model Merc is being looked up.

Rear:
210-325-01-84 5mm
210-325-02-84 9mm
210-325-03-84 13mm
210-325-04-84 17mm
210-325-05-84 21mm

Using the Eibach's the front ride height appears to have dropped about 1" But of course I have to pull the rear springs back out to measure what's in the car now so I know what to install

I'm pretty sure I ordered the lowest/shortest spring pad available. Hope that helps.
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Hi James,

Thanks for the input. you mentioned in a earlier post that you were running 265/30-19. I happen to have the same tire at the moment.

Could I ask you for a favor?

Trying to fit tires is a real pain so I appreciate your input.

Your rear rims, I presume they are they 9.5"?

Also, using the spring pad you ended up with, could you tell me how close the top of the tire tread is to the edge of the fender well if you are horizontally viewing the top edge of the tread?

Or is the top of the tread actually under the fender?
 

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Sunhilde came back from the shop yesterday morning following a service and B12 install. As far as the visual drop goes, this is what the dimensions are roughly measured:

Front stock: 25 5/8"
Back stock: 26 1/16"
Front B12: 25"
Rear B12: 25 3/8"

Tucks the tires in nicely from a visual standpoint. The ride? Definitely more firm; small bumps are felt more than before but the motion is very well controlled. Yeah, scabrous pavement sends a shudder through the car but that was expected. It's by mo means punishing, just solid. On the highway, it rides fine and I really can't detect any degradation in ride quality (the progressive nature of the spring comes out at higher speeds).

Handling? Transformed. She was good before, but she is a little terror now. Around here, the ramp from OR 217 north to US 26 west is a good test, a tight left followed by a right leading onto a long straight which gently curves left to the merge. Sunhilde has always done well here; now she absolutely demolishes it cornering flat and fast. I'm afraid I might have been a bit the hooligan yesterday morning coming home from the shop. Time now for an exercise session south of town to explore her new capabilities further.
 

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I have found that the most consistent way to measure the difference after a suspension change or from one car to the next is to measure from the center of the centering cap to the edge of the fender. This takes out of the measurement the difference in tire inflation and such. Hope that helps.
 

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I have found that the most consistent way to measure the difference after a suspension change or from one car to the next is to measure from the center of the centering cap to the edge of the fender. This takes out of the measurement the difference in tire inflation and such. Hope that helps.
True. My placement of the measuring stick isn't as precise as it could be, but the measurements are close. Another variable is the thickness of the spring pads; I didn't specify any changes there. Maxing out the thickness would lessen the drop. The images do show the drop pretty clearly; I rather like the visual effect.

Something else to throw out there: Putting my hands on the front fender and pushing down, I can barely budge the car. That wasn't the case before. Doing the same to the W202 C230 Kompressor next to it, the budge is only the slightest bit larger. That car has 70k on the odometer and 60k on C43 springs.
 

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Discussion Starter #10
Excellent input Beekster. Thanks for contributing, especially for those who are running the 280.

My indy said now that we know the thicknesses and the part numbers, he might have a way to find out what the thickness of the rear spring perches are by looking up my vin. Anyone heard of this being possible?
 

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After another session with the car on roads I have known for nearly forty years, I can confidently assert that the B12 kit is superb if tackling the twisty bits is what you want to do. The ride is very firm, but bumps are basically one and done--no extra motion at all. When cornering, the car takes a set much more quickly than before, and transitions from one direction to the other more quickly as well. I wasn't trying to find absolute limits by any means, but many times I found myself barely tapping the brakes or merely lifting throttle to set Sunhilde up for a corner where previously I would have braked a bit more heavily so that the stock suspension had time to take a set as the body rolled over it. Body motion is really minute now, and the car just goes where it is pointed. At no point was I running the tires out of grip, nor did I hear them complain in the slightest as the B12 setup kept them square to the road. With more tire higher speeds could be attained, but these roads are tight enough that I wouldn't advise it. On the track more rubber could be deployed with confidence, but I won't be tracking the car. I suppose that a strut tower bar up front might sharpen things up a bit more, but I don't think that changing to stiffer antiroll bars would do much for my car dynamically and would simply make the ride quality suffer. I'm happy with the stiffness and response of the B12 kit when combined with 16" wheels and tires.
 

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Excellent input Beekster. Thanks for contributing, especially for those who are running the 280.

My indy said now that we know the thicknesses and the part numbers, he might have a way to find out what the thickness of the rear spring perches are by looking up my vin. Anyone heard of this being possible?

Good to know: The thickness is defined by the bumps on the pads. It is easy to check, without removing them.


What I understand, the number of bumps matches the 0X in the list below.
So if you have 3 bumps, you have 13mm pad.


Rear:
210-325-01-84 5mm
210-325-02-84 9mm
210-325-03-84 13mm
210-325-04-84 17mm
210-325-05-84 21mm
 

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