[DAJ 190]

I'm going to start a thread soon regarding the conversion of my "Depo" headlights (which were for LHD) to Bi LED projectors (which ARE for RHD). I have just completed the work.. However, before I do that, I've hit a problem .... The Depo's have bulbs with two filaments, one for low and one for high beam. The stalk to the side of the column is used to select high or low beam. Simple! The Bi-LED projectors, however, use one beam and the high setting is achieved by a solenoid being activated to deflect the path of the beam. The way things are with my conversion is that I do get the dipped beam but when I go to high beam there's nothing. Yes, the solenoid has received power and has operated but there's now no power to the LED projector. I need to find a way to not only have the solenoid operate for high beam but also still have power to the LED projector beam. I hope that I've explained this in a way that's understandable. I'd appreciate your help in solving this problem.

David

 

[Rofa]

Get the feed to the solenoid to also switch a relay with a separate 12v feed? Not sure how the "bulb out" logic will work though???? Easy enough to give it a whirl.

 

[Rofa]

I was just looking at how I did it on my Saab 9 5. It's got twin headlights and it's set up for DRL. The dipped lights are on all the time so it's easy just to use the power from the main beam to lift the LED shutter. I suppose you could wire up the SLK lights as DRL - again with a separate feed and do something similar.
I actually have 4 bi-led units fitted so I can run all 4 dipped or full. Quite bright really

 

[DAJ 190]

I've fitted DRL shrouds, too. I took the feed from the fuse box. It's an ignition-on live location, so the DRL's are always on when the car's running.There is now a redundant small bulb in each headlight. It was the side-light and is a switchable live. Maybe I could use that to feed a relay which could work with the high-beam solenoid operation? The main light switch has positions for side-lights and main lights. I can't remember .... do the side lights go off when the switch moves on to the main beam position?

David

 

[Rofa]

Mine stay on... Pre FL

 

[savcom]

I've fitted DRL shrouds, too. I took the feed from the fuse box. It's an ignition-on live location, so the DRL's are always on when the car's running.There is now a redundant small bulb in each headlight. It was the side-light and is a switchable live. Maybe I could use that to feed a relay which could work with the high-beam solenoid operation? The main light switch has positions for side-lights and main lights. I can't remember .... do the side lights go off when the switch moves on to the main beam position?

David

I think they're designed to stay on, David. Kind of a back-up should the headlight fail.

 

[Dave2302]

Sidelights legally must never extinguish with either Headlamp beam.

It is a legal requirement in UK that you have working Sidelights, and they should be separate Bulbs and separately switched function to DRL's, which is usually Ignition On or if you wanna be real posh use a Relay triggered from the Alternator Battery Warning Lamp Wire so they only Light when Engine is actually running
Conveniently that Wire changes from a feedback negative to a +ve when Charging, and can be found in the Left Equipment Box, (the one next to Battery for LHD guys)

I think from your OP that the issue you are experiencing is that your Dipswitch and Lighting Module is designed to extinguish Dip Filament and light up Full Beam Filament as you switch between the 2 that is to say it requires Dual Filament Bulbs ..........................

So a Projector with Solenoid and Shield is actually designed to use a Single "Filament" either Xenon or LED ......................

That isn't gonna fly unless you do something such as using 2 Pole Relays to keep the Single Filament switched on no matter which wire is feeding it, (full or dipped beam) and of course it must also be wired so that only the Full Beam one should drop the Shield
Mount a Relay on the rear of each Headlamp, then all the Wires you need are right there

This is the circuit diagram you need ....

Clickable :-



HTH

 

[DAJ 190]

It is a legal requirement in UK that you have working Sidelights, and they should be separate Bulbs and separately switched function to DRL's

I'm now wondering how I can do that? The DRL shroud around the projector Bi-LED has completely covered the small side-light bulb. Access is now a bit difficult because I've siliconed the front headlight cover back in place. I'm thinking that the only way round this is to re-locate the side-light bulb to a lower position, below the DRL shroud? I could drill that hole for the new bulb position from the inside of the reflector without having to dis-assemble the headlight.If the side-lights are powered in addition to when the dipped beam is on, then that could be the source for a power-feed to the main beam. So this COULD be the way forward : Dipped beam is no problem. Main beam (high) will have the solenoid powered - up to divert the LED projector to that position. The projector will require power which could be provided from the side-light feed,.via a relay which is triggered by the same feed that has powered the high-beam solenoid. For this to work, the side-lights HAVE to be on simultaneously with the main beam. Does this make sense? I hope that I've made this understandable? Nothing seems to be easy for me, at the moment

David

 

[Dave2302]

Sidelamp circuit is totally separate and not got the current capacity for Beam Bulbs !!

See my wiring diagram above that I just drew, do not try and feed the Headlight Beam Bulb from Sidelight circuit unless you want more bulb errors and overload / fry your Lighting Module
That is the easiest and best way to do this.

Left and right beams are also separately fused at Lighting Module, hence I say use 1 Relay on the back of each Light unit, again one side does not have the capacity to run 2 Beams

Yes, if Sidelight bulb is obscured by the Shield then you need to move it

You will need a Resistor across each Beam Bulb + and - to make Bulb Failure lamp work properly

I'll leave it to someone else to work out what Ohms resistor will add the required current to each circuit so the Bulb Failure works properly

 

[Dave2302]

2 x 100w 3.6ohm Resistor LED Fix for 55w bulbs such as H1,H4,H7

Make sure to use 2x 100w 3.6ohm Resistor LED Fix For 55w bulbs to ensure trouble free functioning. They features superior heat dissipation.

www.hids-direct.co.uk

 

[Rofa]

You might not need the resistors David. The LED plus it's fan might have enough current draw. Certainly did on my Saab. Try and see first.
PS. My led units were rated at 35W, so not too far from the original bulbs.

 

[DAJ 190]

Is it a big deal not having the "bulb failure" feature working? There seems to be a lot of hassle associated with this? I was thinking of just taking the warning bulb out of the cluster. I can just check periodically if a bulb HAS failed ...
I've had a look at your wiring diagram, above. Excuse my ignorance, but the problem is that when the stalk on the column is moved from dipped to high beam the power is lost completely to the projector (and to the headlight in general) I need to provide power, via a relay, to get the projector working on high beam. The current drawn from the LED projector and fan is not substantial and I would have thought that the wiring/fuses would not have been compromised, even if I had used the side-light as a source of power for the projector? I may be wrong but I think that the projector is rated at 55 w.in total .... I'll check it, now

David

 

[Dave2302]

I designed the Wiring Diagram that way so the Projector (Headlamp Bulb) is fed whatever position the Dip Switch is in, including the Flasher function.

Your Car has Full Beam and Dip Beam power at the original Headlamp Plugs, (as well as Earth, Sidelight Power and Indicator Power) ...................

This comes from the Lighting Module which ordinarily would feed Dip and Full Beam Bulb elements dependent upon Dipswitch position !!

 

[Rofa]

@DAJ 190 my bulb out warning doesn't work and has likely been removed. I'm guessing it was done when the DEPO headlights were fitted which have a couple of extra relays and an additional harness.

 

[DAJ 190]

Remember this? I've been doing an immense amount of work on this project and it's becoming something quite special and satisfying. I've taken a few photos and I'll give fuller details when it's all finished. However, there's something which is still causing me concern. I can't figure out how to get both the dipped and main beams. I know that Dave has given a diagram that utilises a relay but I can't discover a suitable relay on the Internet. I've spent a lot of time reading about relays (how they function and types) but it's still not clear to me. To recap, I have two independent power feeds that have to go to the same source .... the LED projector. The dipped beam feed is a single wire but the full beam wiring also feeds a shield/solenoid which deflects the beam to the high position. If these wires are just directly connected then the full/high beam would work fine. In the dipped-beam position,however, the shield/solenoid would still be activated because it would receive a back-feed from the high-beam wiring. I've thought that this could be prevented by incorporating a diode in the full beam wiring going to the projector. Power is ~ 50 W and it's 12 volts, so that diode need s to be 5 A ... is that correct? It isn't easy to find the correct diode. I'm hoping that you'll be able to help me to (finally) get this sorted, please? What would be great would be for me to be told " you need to purchase THIS (xxxx) relay and connect it THIS way." OR, THIS (xxxx) diode will do the job." One final glitch .... The DRL's that I've fitted stay on when the headlights are in operation. That shouldn't happen? How do I fix that? Thanks

David

 

[Dave2302]

DRL's on all stock Cars stay on with Headlamps on.

Two off, (one per Headlamp) ............. 12 Volt, 2 Pole, (5 Contacts) 20 Amp + Relay like this, (as ever don't buy Chinesium) :-

Relay 0332209152 Bosch 01174400 01178519 04194475 1174400 1178519 RW152 Quality 3165141213164 | eBay

KHD 01174400, 01178519, 04194475, 1174400, 1178519, 4194475. Relay 0332209152 Bosch. Part Number 0332209152. Colour Black/Grey. Resistance 16 Ohm. MAHLE FILTER MR 93. VALTRA 32906800. ROLLS-ROYCE UD75826.

www.ebay.co.uk

 

[DAJ 190]

O.K., I've ordered those quality relays and some pre-wired 5 pin sockets from another source. I think that I've finally understood what's involved and how things work. I could use a relay to get the DRL's to isolate when the main beam is on, too? Thank you for your help, Dave

David

 

[Dave2302]

You could cancel the DRL's but as I said, my 2015 E Class Wagon has DRL's they are on as soon as Engine starts, customers 2016 BMW same, and many many other cars with factory DRL do the same, i.e. DRL on upon Ignition On ..........................

So I would wire them as you have and leave it at that, it is certainly MOT Compliant and also C&U Legal, so there would be no issues with it that way

Volvo's have been that way since I were a wee lad, and that's a very very long time 🤣

 

[Rofa]

Maybe the DRLs will be compliant but the new lights won't be, but I'm sure the OP knows that. Mine aren't either, but it's getting more difficult over here every year. Reminds me of buying a 540i in Lymington a few years ago. The guy had taken the cats off and done a few other things. What about the MOT I bleated. No problem he says his mate down the road would pass it no problem.

 

[Dave2302]

As I have said before, it often depends upon the MY of the Vehicle, (older Cars rules are more relaxed) plus if the light is EMarked, and putting out the correct Beam Patterns and also it has the relevant and working Self Levelling where needed, there is no reason for it to fail a UK MOT ......................

Yeah, UK has some "jobsworth" Testers, but a good tester who knows his job properly cannot and will not fail them if everything is correct

I know nothing about the Testing rules in Finland tho

Problem is (in UK at least), most folks never do any of that, all they do is bung in a set of (often LHD) Fleabay Chinesium Xenons or LED's and wonder why they get nicked by cops or failed at MOT time

Morimoto Projectors with the correct Bulbs are perfectly legal if they Self Level, and you get decent bulbs so they produce the correct Beam Pattern

Further, if the Car has the hydraulic Active Body Control, in UK at least it does not require Self Levelling, because the ABC System keeps the car level no matter what, same Car with Airmatic Suspension does require Levelling Case in point W220 S Class

For my V8's Levelling I used the motors, sensor and wiring from an R170 that had self levelling Xenons from the factory
I was very lucky in as much as I got the levelling parts all for free, because I repaired a 2002 SLK 320 Car with factory Xenons, that Car had been bashed at the front, car park Lights Grille and Bumper ding

The customer didn't want to pay for new Xenon Headlamps, none on EBay, so he got second hand Halogens, he let me keep all the Electric Levelling parts, and in return I fitted him the "usual" R170 Vacuum Levelling parts which were readily available used

HTH