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Premium Member 2005 SLK55 AMG; 2005 SLK350
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5,136 Posts
Discussion Starter #1
I bought OTC 7394 to remove my rear hub, but this tool is too large for the job - the arms are too long/drive screw is not long enough. Does anybody have a recommendation for a better tool?
 

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Premium Member 2005 SLK350
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2,354 Posts
I bought OTC 7394 to remove my rear hub, but this tool is too large for the job - the arms are too long/drive screw is not long enough. Does anybody have a recommendation for a better tool?
Depending on the diameter of the drive screw, if it is large enough to not pass through the square hole of a 1/2" socket, seat the socket then run the screw on to the socket. You could also use a 3/8" drive socket if the drive screw is not large enough in diameter but those sockets aren't quite as robust as a 1/2" drive socket. This will effectively extend the length of the drive screw.
 

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Premium Member 2005 SLK55 AMG; 2005 SLK350
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5,136 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
I tried that with an impact socket but it kept falling out. The turning motion of the screw causes the socket to move around, and eventually the socket falls out.

It has a 1" drive screw and is rated for use with an impact wrench, which I am using. It's just too big!
 

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Premium Member 2005 SLK350
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2,354 Posts
I tried that with an impact socket but it kept falling out. The turning motion of the screw causes the socket to move around, and eventually the socket falls out.

It has a 1" drive screw and is rated for use with an impact wrench, which I am using. It's just too big!
Yes, an impact gun will cause that to happen but it will likely happen without the gun - just not as soon. How much short is the drive screw?
 

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Premium Member 2005 SLK55 AMG; 2005 SLK350
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5,136 Posts
Discussion Starter #5
When I attach the tool directly to the hub using the wheel bolts, and I extend the drive screw until it engages the shaft, it's within about three turns of its limit - probably 3mm of purchase left in it.

I could buy a little more purchase if I bolted the tool to the hub with regular bolts instead of the wheel bolts - maybe an additional 20mm.

However, the spline portion of the shaft appears to be 50-60mm, so I don't think 20mm will get me home.
 

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Premium Member 2005 SLK55 AMG; 2005 SLK350
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5,136 Posts
Discussion Starter #9
Did you disconnect the suspension arms from the knuckle first? Or were you able to leave all attached?
 

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Registered 1997 SLK230
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268 Posts
When I did mine I left everything connected to the knuckle until the hub was off. Then disconnected the suspension arms and removed the knuckle to change the bearing. No need to remove driveshafts. BTW I removed the hub in the same way as the Pelican Parts write up using a large bearing separator fitted behind the hub and then using 3 wheel bolts to wind the hub off.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
 

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Premium Member 2005 SLK55 AMG; 2005 SLK350
Joined
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5,136 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
My tool was unable to fully extract the hub (due to it's size), but it did enough that I was able to free the knuckle and hub together as a unit. I had to remove the shock and spring, and disconnect the suspension arms from the knuckle. I pressed the hub out of the bearing with my shop press. Now I just need a pair of snap-ring pliers with some gusto and that should be that.
 

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Registered 1997 SLK230
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268 Posts
Know what you mean. Getting that new circlip fitted stalled my bearing replacement until Amazon supplied a man enough circlip tool for the job. With the right tool they just popped straight in.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
 
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