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Discussion Starter #1
I'm planing on doing my own oil change, what is the best oil to use? can i use royal purple ? also i I hear that i will need a special tool ,is this true ?
51k miles
thank you
 

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Premium Member 2006 SLK 280-sold
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Search is your friend. The key is Mercedes Benz spec 229.5 for gasoline M272 (SLK 280,300,350) engines. If you have an AMG then I will defer to Eddy and JBanks and the others around here.

Lots of strong opinions on oil. I use Mobil 1 0w-40 European Car Formula. Can't go wrong there, but as the link below shows - lots of oils meet the spec.

MB 229.5 - Multigrade engine oils (Specification 229.5) - Mercedes-Benz Specifications for Operating Fluids

Hint - MityVac is your friend !

Your car - Your decision.
 

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It doesnt matter.

Anyone who is loyal to any brand is going to tell you they have no problems with it.

Thats what its all about- just going with a decent oil is going to treat you well.

Play it safe with some synthetic, Mobil 1 is always safe, but realistically while everyone will argue this or that, any of the syntehtics would be fine. Amsoil, Royal Purple, Mobil 1, your fine.
 

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If your SLK is under MB warranty, definitely find an oil from the list Gene provided(you saved me Gene :tu: , I'm usually the first one to post it :biglaugh:). If no warranty, you can go by the list or use any synthetic with the proper "weight" range. Personally, I use Castrol Edge with SPT 0w-30 Euro Formula. No warranty here, but I just trust the oil. IF this were no longer available, I'd go with the M1 0w-40 Euro Formula...Why? It's good stuff too...

Oh, Welcome from Indy!!!
 
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Premium Member 2006 SLK 280-sold
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As to your comment on the special tool, IMHO it is optional. The plugs and skirts if you go that route are standard metrics, and the only weird duck is the oil filter housing. You can buy a special tool to handle that one, (search the oil change threads for the exact specs) but I just use a large set of oil filter pliers with teeth to remove mine. It's made of plastic and I do scuff it up a bit every time I take it off, but it doesn't bother me. The assembly torque value for the filter is on the housing, but to be quite honest the last two times I've put mine together I did it by hand. It's an o-ring seal with a lip that makes plastic to metal contact. I just lube the ring with fresh oil and tighten it down until the plastic lip hits the metal housing. No problems to date, and it it leaks it's all right there in front of you.

Tips and tricks
- To be honest the trickiest part of changing the oil is getting the level right. Ramps, temperature, and whether or not your garage is level all play a part.
- If you do use the drain plug I would also recommend replacing the copper crush washer every time. You can get them at the Dealer for next to nothing.
- Don't scrimp on the oil filter - It needs to be fleece (if you have an M272 engine - SLK 280/300/350) and the model I use is Mann HU718/5X. The first time I bought the filter at the dealer for $20, and if you inspect the filter it looks exactly the same. EBay will tell you that a 4X is compatible sometimes, but I wouldn't chance it to save $5. You can get the 5X for $10-$15 if you look hard enough. The Mann comes with the o-rings and a picture on how to install it.
- Take pics of the filter housing after you remove it before you take off the filter to see how far to push the new filter into the housing.
- I use a MityVac 7201 to suction the oil from the dipstick tube. I've done it both ways and greatly prefer this method, but it will cost you some extra coin for the extractor.

Best Wishes
 

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Discussion Starter #6
Some very good tips, i have no warranty the car was in a small accident and Mercedes void the warranty, runs like new and was a one owner vehicle.

I have the MTY-MV7241 most likely not the same but i have ramp and tools i can get under the vehicle , thank you thank you for all the tips
 

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As to your comment on the special tool, IMHO it is optional. The plugs and skirts if you go that route are standard metrics, and the only weird duck is the oil filter housing. You can buy a special tool to handle that one, (search the oil change threads for the exact specs) but I just use a large set of oil filter pliers with teeth to remove mine. It's made of plastic and I do scuff it up a bit every time I take it off, but it doesn't bother me. The assembly torque value for the filter is on the housing, but to be quite honest the last two times I've put mine together I did it by hand. It's an o-ring seal with a lip that makes plastic to metal contact. I just lube the ring with fresh oil and tighten it down until the plastic lip hits the metal housing. No problems to date, and it it leaks it's all right there in front of you.

Tips and tricks
- To be honest the trickiest part of changing the oil is getting the level right. Ramps, temperature, and whether or not your garage is level all play a part.
- If you do use the drain plug I would also recommend replacing the copper crush washer every time. You can get them at the Dealer for next to nothing.
- Don't scrimp on the oil filter - It needs to be fleece and the model I use is Mann HU718/5X. The first time I bought the filter at the dealer for $20, and if you inspect the filter it looks exactly the same. EBay will tell you that a 4X is compatible sometimes, but I wouldn't chance it to save $5. You can get the 5X for $10-$15 if you look hard enough. The Mann comes with the o-rings and a picture on how to install it.
- Take pics of the filter housing after you remove it before you take off the filter to see how far to push the new filter into the housing.
- I use a MityVac 7201 to suction the oil from the dipstick tube. I've done it both ways and greatly prefer this method, but it will cost you some extra coin for the extractor.

Best Wishes
Have we determined which version he has yet? The 55 doesn't have a fleece filter :(

Also the special tool is an Allan socket. I don't recall what size off the top of my head, but can look when I get home. I bought a set for $12 at Harbor Freight. I think the proper torque setting is 2.5nm. i can check that as well if you need it.
 

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Oh a few other things. The splash sheild is held on by 6 (SLK55) 8mm screws. Just grab an 8mm socket and go to work. I don't remember the size of the drain plug but for some reason I'm thinking 12mm and don't forget to replace the crush washer. They're like 3 for $2 at a parts store. Size 13mm I think.
 

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Welcome

I've been using Mobil 1 in all my vehicles since they first started making it. Great stuff. You can find the filter removal tool and the Mann fleece filter on Amazon.
 
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