Have we determined which version he has yet? The 55 doesn't have a fleece filterAs to your comment on the special tool, IMHO it is optional. The plugs and skirts if you go that route are standard metrics, and the only weird duck is the oil filter housing. You can buy a special tool to handle that one, (search the oil change threads for the exact specs) but I just use a large set of oil filter pliers with teeth to remove mine. It's made of plastic and I do scuff it up a bit every time I take it off, but it doesn't bother me. The assembly torque value for the filter is on the housing, but to be quite honest the last two times I've put mine together I did it by hand. It's an o-ring seal with a lip that makes plastic to metal contact. I just lube the ring with fresh oil and tighten it down until the plastic lip hits the metal housing. No problems to date, and it it leaks it's all right there in front of you.
Tips and tricks
- To be honest the trickiest part of changing the oil is getting the level right. Ramps, temperature, and whether or not your garage is level all play a part.
- If you do use the drain plug I would also recommend replacing the copper crush washer every time. You can get them at the Dealer for next to nothing.
- Don't scrimp on the oil filter - It needs to be fleece and the model I use is Mann HU718/5X. The first time I bought the filter at the dealer for $20, and if you inspect the filter it looks exactly the same. EBay will tell you that a 4X is compatible sometimes, but I wouldn't chance it to save $5. You can get the 5X for $10-$15 if you look hard enough. The Mann comes with the o-rings and a picture on how to install it.
- Take pics of the filter housing after you remove it before you take off the filter to see how far to push the new filter into the housing.
- I use a MityVac 7201 to suction the oil from the dipstick tube. I've done it both ways and greatly prefer this method, but it will cost you some extra coin for the extractor.