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2006 SLK55 AMG
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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
Hi All, not been on for a while, hope everyone is all OK.

Unfortunately I've now suffered the dreaded 7G transmission issue. Several "Stuck in gear" moments over the last couple of years were the harbinger of doom for this. A week or so ago the box final decided to only go in drive (first gear I think) or reverse with very aggressive engagement and no indicaiton on the dash of what gear was selected, including Park or Neutral.

I borrowed a Snap on scan tool from a friend this weekend and it indicated:
"0717 – The Signal From Component Y3/8n1 (Turbine Speed Sensor, VGS) Is Not Available." under transmission and
"P20F5 - READ FAULT MEMORY OF TONTROL UNIT TRANSMISSION (P0717) in the main ECU area"

Which I'm farily confident from reading many posts here is due to the conductor plate.

I reset the codes and performed a short test ride, the car was driving normally but we all know that this issue is going to re-occur.
I believe this is not such a massive job to do so I don't want to be paying out more than necessary for labour which I'm more than capable of doing myself and I found a lot of good infomation on this thread:


Amongst others, including some good links to businesses in the UK which I will enquire with but just wondering if anyone can give me any idea of prices to have my own unit repaired or replaced, I'm assuming a new part from MB is plenty expensive but I've also heard they are an improved design so may be a better bet than repairing my own?

Any advice on the best way to proceed or success/failure stories would be appreciated.
 

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2005 SLK55 AMG
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Mine was repaired a few years back - £285 then, inc lifetime g'tee. Combined with necessary fluid and filter change, no major insult to bank balance. Been perfect ever since.

Here:

 

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2006 SLK55 AMG
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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
You really need a scan with SDS to pinpoint the problem. As well as the conductor plate, the gearbox speed sensor is a weak point. The replacement part has been redesigned with more than one sensor, in case one fails.
Mark
Cheers Mark.
From the scan I've done on the car I'm confident that the issue is with the speed sensor for the turbine (If I've understood correctly that's the input shaft speed) and this sensor is an integral part of the conductor plate if that is the correct name for the black plastic assembly attached to the aluminium valve plate which holds the TCU, solenoids and other electricery devices. I have this off the car and sending away for testing and repair.
 

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2005 SLK350
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If doing it yourself then send your Control Plate to ECUTEST in Derbyshire. They will unload program and then fix whatever is wrong with the plate. Reload the program and send it back to you with lifetime warranty. I did this with mine and it was true "Plug and Play", no more problems. Found them to be very nice guys to deal with and Im in South Africa. Normally find the difficulty of dealing with people varies with the square of the distance! not in this case, highly recommend then. Suggest you clean out the Vave Block whilst waiting for your Plate return, take it slow and methodical and it is a simple job. Best of luck.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
If doing it yourself then send your Control Plate to ECUTEST in Derbyshire. They will unload program and then fix whatever is wrong with the plate. Reload the program and send it back to you with lifetime warranty. I did this with mine and it was true "Plug and Play", no more problems. Found them to be very nice guys to deal with and Im in South Africa. Normally find the difficulty of dealing with people varies with the square of the distance! not in this case, highly recommend then. Suggest you clean out the Vave Block whilst waiting for your Plate return, take it slow and methodical and it is a simple job. Best of luck.

Hi Bob, good too hear that as it's exactly what I have done.
Only worry I have is whether they will find fault when the test it as the error codes have been cleared as part of my scan, I've made this clear to them (and sent them screen grabs of my scan results) and I'd rather they just replaced the parts which tend to fail anyhow as I don't want to go to all the trouble and expense of stripping the parts off and changing the oil only to put back together as is.
I will be giving the valve block a good clean through in the mean time, probably won't get it back until next week now but hope to have it together as soon as possible after that.
 

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Discussion Starter · #9 ·
By the way, I'm just looking at the best way of filling the oil back into the gearbox. I could use a pump as per the notes on the DIY section of this wonderful forum but I was thinking of simply attaching a pipe to the filler adaptor, feeding it up through then engine bay and pouring the fluid in with a funnel, I don't see why this wouldn't work but has anyone tried this method and found any issues?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Just looking at reassembly and noticed some instructions which indicate that the bolts holding the conductor plate onto the transmission are single use and need to be replaced.

Can anybody confirm if this is correct and if so any suggestions on where to get these in the UK?
 

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Just looking at reassembly and noticed some instructions which indicate that the bolts holding the conductor plate onto the transmission are single use and need to be replaced.

Can anybody confirm if this is correct and if so any suggestions on where to get these in the UK?
100% this is correct - and vital. AFAIK they are MBUK only, but not very expensive.
 

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Thanks @Terminal. It's got to be done I guess, I'd be worrying about the 'box falling apart otherwise. I'll get onto dealer on Monday.
There are horror stories of threads stripped when re-using bolts. I guess the torque settings are affected by the 'stretch' factor, but above my pay grade. :D

All I will add is that expect to be pleasantly surprised with how crisper the gearbox feels after the fix and service. Well mine was, anyway...
 

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Discussion Starter · #14 ·
There are horror stories of threads stripped when re-using bolts. I guess the torque settings are affected by the 'stretch' factor, but above my pay grade. :D

All I will add is that expect to be pleasantly surprised with how crisper the gearbox feels after the fix and service. Well mine was, anyway...
I agree, there is no way to accurately torque a stretch/torque-to-yeild type of bolt and given the time, trouble and expense I've already been to for this job it's not worth cutting any corners.

I hope it will feel better after the 'fix' but as long as it works without issue anything more will be considered a bonus :)
 

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Agree with all above.:- Bolts, torque etc. I believe you will be far better to pump into the box. What I did was connect into the cooling line from Box to the radiator. In this way you will replace ALL the oil including Torque converter. You do waste a little oil but I thought it better to replace 100 % rather than have some old oil still circulating. Ecutest will change ALL speed sensors as well as anything else giving trouble PLUS you will not have to re-program the car - good buy from those guys.
 

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CORRECTION :- I pumped into box filler and discharged from pipe return from radiator back to box. When clear oil was exiting then I reconnected to box and completed fill cycle. Sorry about that.....senior moment!
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
Agree with all above.:- Bolts, torque etc. I believe you will be far better to pump into the box. What I did was connect into the cooling line from Box to the radiator. In this way you will replace ALL the oil including Torque converter. You do waste a little oil but I thought it better to replace 100 % rather than have some old oil still circulating. Ecutest will change ALL speed sensors as well as anything else giving trouble PLUS you will not have to re-program the car - good buy from those guys.
Thanks Bob.
I believe you are correct but for the moment I'm just gong to perform a 'normal' oil change rather than a full purge, I just want to get this car functioning again. If all is OK with the 'box I'll maybe do another change over the winter which will be full flush.

As it is somewhere between 6-7 liters have come out of the sump which I'm surprised at as I think only 5 is supposed to be required for a change. When I first drained the sump I collected the oil and this amounted to just over 5 lites. I tacked the sump back on as there was the odd drip appearing from it and I had to park my other car underneath it (the Merc' is up on my lift) and I didn't want the drips landing on it.
I took the sump off again on Friday to fit the re-furbished board and was surprised to find a significant quantity of oil in it, so much so that I spilled a lot of it over me! Those drips really added up.
I measured out the rest which came to about 3/4 litre so that's 6 litres of recovered fluid plus whatever is deposited over me, my clothes and my garage floor.

The kit I have on the way comes with 6L of fluid so I may need to purchase a little more to get back to the same level.

I have a couple of options for filling the box. The simplesetwas to drop a pipe through the engine bay and link it, through a valve, to the 'box filler and feed the fluid down through this. Gravity works pretty well in this area so I think that should work (I'm assuming the 'box is vented)! The other option is to use a fuel pump which I have available, not sure how well this will work with ATF as this is thicker than petrol but time will tell.



ECU Testing have so far done a great job, they arranged colllection, got on to the job as soon as it arrived, tested it, fixed it and returned it right away, delivered next day. They also communicated with me all along the process so, as long as the unit now works, I can't praise them highly enough.
 

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^ My indy did the same trick as you - and covered himself with trans fluid. Had to go home and change his clothes. Luckily the trans fluid didn't affect his voice - he can still sing "Ol' Man River"...

:ROFLMAO:
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
^ My indy did the same trick as you - and covered himself with trans fluid. Had to go home and change his clothes. Luckily the trans fluid didn't affect his voice - he can still sing "Ol' Man River"...

:ROFLMAO:
I can see that being an issue but not sure it's any more likely with a gravity feed than a pump (without knowing the particular failure mode your indy suffered). Whatever way I do it I'll be feeding the oil in via a valve and be ready to close it, so if I have a problem between the supply and the valve worst case scenario would be to spill what I have in the pipe and funnel, that's probably less risk than using a pump. If the pipework fails between the valve and the filler then I'd be in a mess either way as anything above the wier will want to exit from the 'box.
I have seen people filling the box by simply pushing a pipe into the drain hole, that's the most likely way to get an early bath IMO.

I've already had one misshap last Friday when I didn't expect so much additional fluid to have drained into the sump since the original draining, the resulting damage to my shorts and T shirt was so bad that I've had to send them to Oxfam. No oil is nice to be covered in (not in the garage at least) but ATF is particularly bad!
 

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I've already had one misshap last Friday when I didn't expect so much additional fluid to have drained into the sump since the original draining, the resulting damage to my shorts and T shirt was so bad that I've had to send them to Oxfam. No oil is nice to be covered in (not in the garage at least) but ATF is particularly bad!
This was the bit to which I was referring, not the filling procedure! The indy assumed that the volume dumped on him was due to the torque converter draining while the conductor plate was with ECUtest. Some 722.9 torque converters have a drain bolt, but not on ours. Not sure how the contained fluid seeps out with time, but that volume has to come from somewhere.
 
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