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Premium Member
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Discussion Starter #1
Sooo here we are again.
Went to mb dealer to check error codes.
abs sensor right back error.
Took it home and changed it to a new one.
Cables in contact was rely good and no corrotions at all.

Went back to remove codes.

They told me that the codes cant be removed .. they are there in all (?) 3 system.

How do i proceed in this?

that must meen that the error is not in sensor, but in abs systemboard or something..

Now i need to know were is the cables going from the sensors in to the motor area?



Then they told me that the abs box is ones coded it cant be change to another car?
I meen if i buy a new one and code it to the car it cant be switched to another one and like reset the card.

this is a 1998 model..

Is it possible to buy a abs box on ebay or here and replace it and go to dealer and code it in?

Well the first thing i need is to see if there is a cables that is broken or something like that.

Please help me... this summer is soo to be over and havent used th VR yet since the error is still there.

Best regards Thomas
 

Registered 2002 SLK320
Joined
1,986 Posts
Hi,

It would be really helpful if you can post up the exact fault codes descriptions that you are getting.

Have you actually changed the correct Sensor ??

Did you check the Reluctor Ring (which triggers the Sensor you have just changed ??

Need to look at Live Data to see what the Wheel Speeds are reading.

Need to bell out the Wiring between Sensors and Module, need WIS Wiring Diagram for that.

I would not be condemning the ABS / ESP Module yet.

AFAIK they may not need VIN coding on R170, and if they do SDS should be able to do it, may have to get it virginised first although I doubt that too, due to the age of this technology !! .....................

Later Cars yes, however I can't be sure as I've never never swapped ABS / ESP on an R170 ;)

HTH, Cheers Dave
 

Super Moderator UK SLK 55 AMG 2007
Joined
26,044 Posts
@i860 may also have some info for you.

Whatever you do, do not throw money on a parts chase without being sure of the need.
More often than not it is a cheap item that is the route cause.

Are you using oem, or high quality parts sourced from a reliable supplier?

Particularly sites like the bay often have authentic looking parts, at cheap prices, that end up being less use than a paperweight.


I presume the MB dealer would being using the correct scanner, but.... you never know.
 

Premium Member
Joined
111 Posts
Sooo here we are again.
Went to mb dealer to check error codes.
abs sensor right back error.
Took it home and changed it to a new one.
Cables in contact was rely good and no corrotions at all.

Went back to remove codes.

They told me that the codes cant be removed .. they are there in all (?) 3 system.

How do i proceed in this?

that must meen that the error is not in sensor, but in abs systemboard or something..

Now i need to know were is the cables going from the sensors in to the motor area?



Then they told me that the abs box is ones coded it cant be change to another car?
I meen if i buy a new one and code it to the car it cant be switched to another one and like reset the card.

this is a 1998 model..

Is it possible to buy a abs box on ebay or here and replace it and go to dealer and code it in?

Well the first thing i need is to see if there is a cables that is broken or something like that.

Please help me... this summer is soo to be over and havent used th VR yet since the error is still there.

Best regards Thomas
Hi,
I have a 1996 R170 when ESP fault came up on my car My code reader told me Right rear sensor faulty, Bought a new one fitted it and then drove the car, the light reset itself within 10 seconds, from memory? I could not reset the fault without sorting the problem driving the car
 

Registered 2002 SLK320
Joined
1,986 Posts
Hi,

/\ /\ /\

Yup, a lot of Cars will reset once they see the wheel speed, I just can never remember which ones do.

After I have changed anything, I always use the correct machine for whatever I'm working on to reset the Fault Codes, because although the light goes off the Code still remains, it's just IMHO the final job to do after any rectification on any Car.

Also, agree with the comments on Sensor Quality ....................

After "THE Range Rover and THE Hyundai ABS Faults" 3 years ago, (DO NOT ASK !!), I never fit anything other than a genuine OE Sensor, I will not even use OEM's like Bosch, Magnetti, Hitachi etc etc, only buy from Main Dealers now, same for o2 Lambda sensors on 8 and 12 cylinder Cars.

HTH, Cheers Dave
 

Premium Member
Joined
69 Posts
Discussion Starter #6
Hello.
Many ansers here.

First.. well am i sure i changed the right one... well i hope i can trust the mb dealer....
who else to trust..
The sensor is npot from mb dealer but from a for me trused seller here at home. Its possible that it is a bad example of this sensor..
I can measure it up and see if its working as it shall. something about 1.3-1.9 ohm
they talk about the code is present in 3 systems... and they cant remove the error code.

For me when searching for a error i start at the end and goes back.. first sensor.. the cable.. the box..

I can provide the codes later on.. dont have to papers here.
 

Premium Member
Joined
69 Posts
Discussion Starter #7
Here are the papers from mb dealer and workshop.

"SPARAD" meens saved.

But you can se the codes atleast.

best regards Thomas
 

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Premium Member
Joined
111 Posts
Here are the papers from mb dealer and workshop.

"SPARAD" meens saved.

But you can se the codes atleast.

best regards Thomas
Hi again,
It looks like you could be throwing good money after bad, it is difficult to remotely diagnose a given fault as too many possibilities, if I was you I would let the dealer have the car for an hour and see if they can pin down a diagnosis.

Could be this or that is going to drive you mad.

Apologies if this seems harsh but too many variables.

Just my opinion.

Good luck.
 

Registered 2002 SLK320
Joined
1,986 Posts
Hi,

I agree with @Bartiny , for several reasons.....................

I am not fluent in German, and despite having a reasonable understanding of "technical" German words and a 24" Monitor Screen I am almost unable to read and understand any of that !!

There is one helluva lot of Old (stored) Codes.

Number one rule, after printing everything, clear the whole lot and drive for a while to see what comes back, the others could well be old codes or "red herring codes" introduced by someone who uses the bad practice of "unplug stuff to see if it makes a difference".

If you have changed the correct sensor, you should now plug that sensor into an oscilloscope and spin the wheel, you should get a decent wave form, if you don't then you have a bad reluctor (trigger) on that wheel, worth checking the other 3 for all the time it takes, and just to eliminate ;)

Just because it has correct ohms doesn't mean it is producing the correct pattern, compare the patterns with someone spinning the wheels ;)

If all that checks out then it is most likely a Wiring issue.

HTH, Cheers Dave
 

Premium Member
Joined
69 Posts
Discussion Starter #11
Hi,

I agree with @Bartiny , for several reasons.....................

I am not fluent in German, and despite having a reasonable understanding of "technical" German words and a 24" Monitor Screen I am almost unable to read and understand any of that !!

There is one helluva lot of Old (stored) Codes.

Number one rule, after printing everything, clear the whole lot and drive for a while to see what comes back, the others could well be old codes or "red herring codes" introduced by someone who uses the bad practice of "unplug stuff to see if it makes a difference".

If you have changed the correct sensor, you should now plug that sensor into an oscilloscope and spin the wheel, you should get a decent wave form, if you don't then you have a bad reluctor (trigger) on that wheel, worth checking the other 3 for all the time it takes, and just to eliminate ;)

Just because it has correct ohms doesn't mean it is producing the correct pattern, compare the patterns with someone spinning the wheels ;)

If all that checks out then it is most likely a Wiring issue.

HTH, Cheers Dave

Yes. ok.. ill start to check the sensor and compare it with the others to see that all is working.

Is it any other way to check them... ? a oscilloscope is nothing a normal person have :) atleast not me :)
 

Premium Member
Joined
69 Posts
Discussion Starter #12
@Dave2302 @Bartiny

Here we gooooooo.

Not checked codes yet... but found the problem.. atleast one of them.

There is 8 cables to ABS/ASR module, 2 from each wheel.

Looking and looking for right place on module just by looking at colors at the contact next to sensor.

FOund them all...

Soo using a multimeter measure all sensors both at the contact at abs/asr module and at the contact near the wheel.

3 of them shows 1.09-1.10惟 when the meter is standing on 20k惟.
number 4 shows 11.3惟.

Number 4 is the right back, the one that i got error codes on. That one is now even new.

the cable to number 4 was broken just at the place were it goes from coupe in to motorbay.
there was one yellow and one brown.. the brown was broken..
Fix it and made the measure.

The broken cable was the thing that gave the error codes i think... have not started the car yet..

But the strange thing is that 3 wheels give 1.09-1,10惟 and the one that i have changed is giving way off in readings.. 11.3惟.


I did one more thing to test...

When i measure the sensor i tested to fliped the sticks... and all 3 sensors gives the same reading... but one one that gives 11.3惟 dont show anything when i flip the sticks...
Will it matter if i change black stick and red stick when measure ohm on a sensor?

Can it be soo that the new sensor is broken?
 

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Registered 2002 SLK320
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Hi,

Your wiring fault can happen, not that often, but yes, I have seen that before in that location on MB's of this sort of model year .....................

Solder and heat - shrink is the method I use to repair it :wink:

So, after that are you absolutely certain you have the correct sensor ?

If you bought it off Fleabay then my advice is bin it and get at the very least an OEM Sensor, better still buy from MB quoting your VIN Number !!

Intermotor, First Line and all those other Chinese junk brands have given me so much grief over the years I will not use them now, no way, never ever :wink:

HTH, Cheers Dave
 

Premium Member
Joined
69 Posts
Discussion Starter #14
Hi,

Your wiring fault can happen, not that often, but yes, I have seen that before in that location on MB's of this sort of model year .....................

Solder and heat - shrink is the method I use to repair it :wink:

So, after that are you absolutely certain you have the correct sensor ?

If you bought it off Fleabay then my advice is bin it and get at the very least an OEM Sensor, better still buy from MB quoting your VIN Number !!

Intermotor, First Line and all those other Chinese junk brands have given me so much grief over the years I will not use them now, no way, never ever :wink:

HTH, Cheers Dave
Welll nooo im not 100% sure... it fits perfect but not looks exact the same as org. Can be wrong... ill go to mb dealer to buy a new one and will test it there.


The oter thing... about flippin sticks red to black and reversed when measure the sensor... should it be any diff?

since the new one is acting diff then the others.

Rock on!!
 

Registered 2002 SLK320
Joined
1,986 Posts
Hi,

From what you are saying, (I assume due to translation), about flipping meter probes I would say that Sensor has some form of Diode in it, therefore as the other 3 do not it is likely the wrong one !!

HTH, Cheers Dave
 

Premium Member 2001 SLK200K/2001 SLK320
Joined
1,593 Posts
Here we gooooooo.

Not checked codes yet... but found the problem.. atleast one of them.

There is 8 cables to ABS/ASR module, 2 from each wheel.

Looking and looking for right place on module just by looking at colors at the contact next to sensor.

FOund them all...

Soo using a multimeter measure all sensors both at the contact at abs/asr module and at the contact near the wheel.

3 of them shows 1.09-1.10惟 when the meter is standing on 20k惟.
number 4 shows 11.3惟.

Number 4 is the right back, the one that i got error codes on. That one is now even new.

the cable to number 4 was broken just at the place were it goes from coupe in to motorbay.
there was one yellow and one brown.. the brown was broken..
Fix it and made the measure.

The broken cable was the thing that gave the error codes i think... have not started the car yet..

But the strange thing is that 3 wheels give 1.09-1,10惟 and the one that i have changed is giving way off in readings.. 11.3惟.


I did one more thing to test...

When i measure the sensor i tested to fliped the sticks... and all 3 sensors gives the same reading... but one one that gives 11.3惟 dont show anything when i flip the sticks...
Will it matter if i change black stick and red stick when measure ohm on a sensor?

Can it be soo that the new sensor is broken?

I'm impressed that you found that broken wire - you're doing well, keep going :tu:
 

Premium Member 2001 SLK200K/2001 SLK320
Joined
1,593 Posts
Welll nooo im not 100% sure... it fits perfect but not looks exact the same as org. Can be wrong... ill go to mb dealer to buy a new one and will test it there.


The oter thing... about flippin sticks red to black and reversed when measure the sensor... should it be any diff?

since the new one is acting diff then the others.

Rock on!!

Did you throw your old sensor in the trash? There may not have been anything wrong with it ..
 

Registered 2002 SLK320
Joined
1,986 Posts
Hi @M4rCu5 ,

Good call but it will have likely broken getting it out ;) ...............

Well they all do up here ........... Seized in :biglaugh:

Cheers Dave
 

Premium Member 2001 SLK200K/2001 SLK320
Joined
1,593 Posts
Hi @M4rCu5 ,

Good call but it will have likely broken getting it out ;) ...............

Well they all do up here ........... Seized in :biglaugh:

Cheers Dave
I know Dave, the trick is to grab them with pliers/grips if you have a pair that'll actually get onto them to pull them straight out instead of trying to lever them out. And being in Sweden, he's on the same latitude as you .. up there in the permafrost >:D


Did some quick research anyway, ok fired up WIS .. another possibility is that @Charmed has the wrong part no. - needs to be checked.
Seems that pre-FL and post-FL are not interchangeable and sellers being sellers just say "yeah that'll fit, yeah no problem, here you go sir"


Random pre-FL 230 data card I pulled up:

Speed Sensor Rear Left - A 170 540 04 17

Speed Sensor Rear Right - A 170 540 05 17

I'd be willing to bet that left and right are interchangeable on the basis of part no's being different due to cable length - a test could be to swap the left to the right, bit of a faff and as you have already mentioned .. don't break it by levering it out




Just an FYI - both of mine have the same part no's - the 200 and 320 post-FLs (and I dare say the 230 as well) are all the same:

Speed Sensor Rear Left - A 170 540 12 17

Speed Sensor Rear Right - A 170 540 13 17
 
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