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Leaky air con pipe?
 
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Follow the steps outlined in SmartTop install to get to the part where carpet can be lifted. Then try to feel for the AC drain tube (one on each side, passenger and driver) that is just next to the center channel (the drive shaft tunnel), feel only and trace it to the bottom, do not use force or try to dislodge anything. Feel for any leak at the lower portion (usually this is lightly glued, ergo, do not disturb) where it connects to outside channel for drainage.

If the vehicle is parked indoors, use several large microfiber towels to towel dry (as much as possible) the carpet and attached foam. Place some small (water resistant) boxes underneath the carpet to separate it away from the floor pan metal. Use a fan to direct air to circulate and dry affected area (may take several days of dry weathr to get this to a satisfactory dryness). Make sure AC is on even in cold weather and set it at 68F or slightly less, so the dehumidifier is still working.

IIRC Jeff had some mosture due to humid Florida weather and the trick is to set the A/C temp slightly lower than "normal".
 

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Discussion Starter · #7 ·
Follow the steps outlined in SmartTop install to get to the part where carpet can be lifted. Then try to feel for the AC drain tube (one on each side, passenger and driver) that is just next to the center channel (the drive shaft tunnel), feel only and trace it to the bottom, do not use force or try to dislodge anything. Feel for any leak at the lower portion (usually this is lightly glued, ergo, do not disturb) where it connects to outside channel for drainage.

If the vehicle is parked indoors, use several large microfiber towels to towel dry (as much as possible) the carpet and attached foam. Place some small (water resistant) boxes underneath the carpet to separate it away from the floor pan metal. Use a fan to direct air to circulate and dry affected area (may take several days of dry weathr to get this to a satisfactory dryness). Make sure AC is on even in cold weather and set it at 68F or slightly less, so the dehumidifier is still working.

IIRC Jeff had some mosture due to humid Florida weather and the trick is to set the A/C temp slightly lower than "normal".
Nice one Eddy :wink: Anywhere got pics or not necessary?
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
How good is this forum?

I know it's becoming my catchphrase but haway man, how good is this forum?!!

Brilliant advice as usual - and you get it quicker on here than ringing for an appointment at your local MB dealer, and even better than that...... unlike the extortionate prices charged at MB......................it's all FOR FREE!!!! (Iknow...they don't charge for advice - but they would if they could :wink: )
>:D>:D>:D>:D>:D>:D>:D>:D>:D>:D>:D>:D>:D>:D>:D>:D

:wink:
 

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Nice one Eddy :wink: Anywhere got pics or not necessary?
I do not have photos of the a/c drain as it is difficult to take even with carpets lifted.

As outlined in the SmartTop install procedure:

1. You may be able to see the upper portion of the drain tube when you remove the horizonal panel that covers the floor of the dash panel (IIRC 3 torx screws to remove). Use a good torch (light source). The drain tube may have some corrugations to allow it bend and curve to its drain point.

2. Follow this drain down towards the carpet area and you may be able to trace the tube at the "under-carpet" area.

(There may be some photos of the drain found perhaps in the thread on changing the cabin air filter in the R171)
 

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I've got access to a compressed air line, stick that down, quick blast and hey presto?

Whadya reckon?

:|
Stick it down what?

Do not use compressed air on the A/C drain tubes (per DansSLK) as it will dislodge the bottom attachment (lightly glued) and is a real PITA to re-attach.
IIRC DansSLk recommends a long thin bottle brush of the appropriate length to gently clear the drain tubes of the a/c.
 
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If you use compressed air on the other drains, I suggest you cover the drain and air tool completely with a rag since you'll be making quite a mess. Especially if there's any water accumulated behind a clog.

Don't ask me how I know this please.
 

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I've cleaned a friends r170 blocked drain holes under the splash panel ( bottom of windscreen ) basically water build up then running through the air inlet through the fan and onto passenger carpet easy job , don't know if r171 are the same but if it is happening after rain it is more likely than air con
 

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Discussion Starter · #17 ·
First opportunity to take a look will be this Saturday, I'll go with Simon's suggestion first as it seems the easiest and work my way through all other suggestions.

But without compressed air >:D

:grin:
 

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If you do find them blocked I used a bit of wire top end then used the hose pipe on the jet nozzle it didn't take much to clear, also if you put your head in the footwell I could see the water running down , I also removed the pannel to get the trapped water our , mind this was a 170 , hope it helps
 

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Discussion Starter · #19 ·
Sorted!!!

Huge thanks to everyone who chipped in, thanks to the excellent advice on here I solved this. It was indeed the drainhole in the battery compartment that was blocked, but the amount of water in it was the reason it was coming into the footwell even when we'd had no rain...


I nearly keeled over when I lifted the battery cover and found water almost one inch below the battery terminals :surprise:


How on earth the car has not suffered electrical damage I don't know, but after removing the majority of water with extreme care using a large sponge I was able to find the drainhole which was blocked with leaves and twigs.


Following Eddys excellent pics I also checked the other drains and found the one below the windscreen wiper also blocked :surprise: Towels, and a dehumidifier dried out the footwell :smile: and my two floormats (I have one on top of the OEM Merc mat) were dried in the house.


I love this forum me >:D
 

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Exact same as my last 2 R170's. Common fault. Does it also leak from the Pass door glass at the front roof join? Both mine have too!
Easy fix is adjuster(s) in the door to alter glass angle.
1. located under door, pull off rubber bung & adjust the bolt that holds the glass runner. usually toward car to make tighter agains't seal.
2. Remove cap on lock end of door (2 screws) & get 10mm socket on extension & loosen the nut set inside about 6" in. Then hold top of glass to rear & push toward car (door open) & re-tighten. This again will help the glass to sit more forcefully agains't the seal.

Works most times, but they are prone to the drips on Pass side. Never on RH drivers???

OH, & be careful, i now have a 10mm socket inside me door as i pulled the extension out lol
 
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