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Discussion Starter #1
ABS and ESP lights came on last night. My roof wouldn't come up and the light flashed as though I were moving. Roof worked when I switched off the car and had it in park. So I'm guessing the problem is being caused by a speed sensor. Will the ODB code reader at my local auto parts store tell me which sensor is the issue?

Possible it is something else? Removal and replacement looks fairly easy. If anyone knows of a thread that can show pictures, that'd be great.

Edit: Car is driving fine. Is there any danger it will enter into limp mode?
 

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I don't think an off the shelf code reader will read them your local Indy should be able to 'pull the codes for you for a fee and tell you which one is bad OR, you can go old school and ohm them with a meter/ disconnect and meter for voltage with wheel spinning( can get a lil hairy) note: the connectors( plug in) tend to get wet and corrode the pins a good cleaning might fix your problem. :burnout: Rick:burnout:
 

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reguard limp home mode.

If left uncorrected YES it can go into limp mode leaving you with only 3rd gear. You should fix it asap. -rick
 

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Discussion Starter #4
Hi

Sorry I didn't see your responses. Yes, it was the right rear sensor. And yep, it went into limp mode briefly. I couldn't get it fixed right away because NO one had them in stock. All had to be ordered.

50 bucks from RM European, a car part store online, less than half the price from the dealer. A breeze to install.
 

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Quote = Kyngfish; 1182898] I feel no replies suspensions vi. Yes, it was the rear sensor right direction. And yes, I do put in limp mode briefly. That I could not get it fixed right away because nobody had in stock. Everything had to be ORDERED. 50 RM European Dollars, One shop online Car Spares, Less Than Half the Price in the dealership. A breeze to install. [/ Quote]


Also is My Turning to me. THIS HAPPENS's Daily, But the ESP ABS light occasionally appears. What Can Be The Problem? A sensor WANT To Say? thanks
 

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Translation of above:
My is also happening to me. This does not happen every day, but ESP ABS light appears from time to time. What can be the problem? A sensor that you want to say?


If you could also reply in English or google translate, if possible, the answers might help other members. Thanks
 

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Discussion Starter #7
Respuesta/Response

La verdad es que no puedes saber hasta que lo llevas a alguien para leer los códigos de la conexión de OBD2. En los EEUU, cualquier lugar que vende repuestos te puede conectar una maquina y decir por lo menos el código, generalmente gratis. Una búsqueda en google del numero de código muy rápidamente te diría cual es el problema. En mi caso, me ha pasado dos veces y cada vez fue uno de los sensores de la velocidad que se encuentran detrás de las llantas. 50USD y media hora si tienes las herramientas necesarias.

La próxima vez que las luces se encienden, lo llevaría a alguien que te pueda dar los códigos. Después puedes escribir en este foro o escribirme y si te puedo ayudar, con gusto.

Translation: The truth is that you cannot know what the problem is until you can get someone to read the codes from the OBD2 connection. In the USA, any place that sells auto parts can connect a machine and tell you the codes, generally for free. A search in google of the code number will tell you what the problem is very quickly. In my case, this has happened twice, and both times it was one of the wheel speed sensors which are located behind the wheel. 50USD and a half hour if you have right tools.

The next time your lights come on, I would take it to someone who can read the codes, after that you can write in this forum or write to me and if I can help, I will gladly do so.
 

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I had this same problem show up about week ago. ABS/EPS lights both came on. It rained a lot here the last week. Sometimes the car was electronically stuck in 1st gear, other times it was in limp mode. No ABS functionality (stuck in screech tire mode). The check engine light came on after about a week. Drove a few blocks to work and the ABS/EPS lights cleared themselves. Started the car to drive home a few hours later and the check engine light also went off. It was really weird. The only partial fix was to fill up the front tires from 25 psi to 35 psi the night before. Still not sure if it was the tires or the rain. Hope this helps someone else.
 

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Discussion Starter #9
Hmm

If I were you I'd be suspicious of a problem that just "goes away". Probably at least figure out what the codes are and see if there's a loose connection somewhere.
 

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I keep getting random. What I have clear is that this happens since I took an MOT, technical inspection of vehicles.
I have not yet led to mechanical
 

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re esp

had quite a bit of experience with these, main dealers tend to let you replace the largest component referred to on diagnostics but the most common problem with sensor faults is related to the growing of rust under the sender rings causing a gap change which can be resolved initially by refitting or fitting new sensors (the disturbance to seating can stop signal default for a while but will often return in time, for instance i have seen a few which only occur under power and some on particular turns, which have turned out to be linked to the stresses of turns putting a slight variance in gap etc, tho not an exact science these really need a decent star set up to interrogate exact faults preferably when being driven (which shouldn't cost more than an hours labour at an indi)
best way to check is to look at your sensors and see if they have any rubbing, this would indicate a growth under the ring.

then you have to extract shaft/hub and clean out and replace ring, which is the only method that works long term.
 

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jmitc1,

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had quite a bit of experience with these, main dealers tend to let you replace the largest component referred to on diagnostics but the most common problem with sensor faults is related to the growing of rust under the sender rings causing a gap change which can be resolved initially by refitting or fitting new sensors (the disturbance to seating can stop signal default for a while but will often return in time, for instance i have seen a few which only occur under power and some on particular turns, which have turned out to be linked to the stresses of turns putting a slight variance in gap etc, tho not an exact science these really need a decent star set up to interrogate exact faults preferably when being driven (which shouldn't cost more than an hours labour at an indi)
best way to check is to look at your sensors and see if they have any rubbing, this would indicate a growth under the ring.



then you have to extract shaft/hub and clean out and replace ring, which is the only method that works long term.

But what sensors we talking about? Where are they located?
 

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They are the wheel speed sensors at each hub, they operate for the abs and esp etc by feeding each wheel speed into the relevant module which then feeds back a signal to the main ecu either reducing engine power or braking single wheels etc to comply with the relevant programme. The sensors are very easy to change on most mercs usually only requiring a torx or sometimes Allen key once wheel is removed etc. They are not to be confused with the brake brake pad wear warning lines which are obvious by the lines destination at the hub.
The thing with the intermittent type problems is that they usually indicate a variable, whether that be a break in wiring which happen and be linked to driving style (large engine deflection from heavy acceleration regularly causing Loom movement) or sometimes just back luck but are less common, or a nearing tolerance on a sensor just as regularly caused by the rusting under abs reluctor ring issue. If you google reluctor rings you will see the visuals and a picture always helps understanding.
I think the most important thing is to check the ring 'run out' by removing the sensor and insert something like a round ended peg or similar that won't damage anything up against the ring (never your finger if you want to keep it!) and turn the hub whilst checking for high spots or changes in the depth the item inserted displays, if they show up then you likely have the rust issue and will need to address it, mob will only sell you a complete shaft but the rings are a diddle once the shaft or hub is off. Some can be done in place by removing the hub carrier as the rings are part of the driveshaft although you need some serious cleaning to get the rust off sometimes.
I
 

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They are the wheel speed sensors at each hub, they operate for the abs and esp etc by feeding each wheel speed into the relevant module which then feeds back a signal to the main ecu either reducing engine power or braking single wheels etc to comply with the relevant programme. The sensors are very easy to change on most mercs usually only requiring a torx or sometimes Allen key once wheel is removed etc. They are not to be confused with the brake brake pad wear warning lines which are obvious by the lines destination at the hub.
The thing with the intermittent type problems is that they usually indicate a variable, whether that be a break in wiring which happen and be linked to driving style (large engine deflection from heavy acceleration regularly causing Loom movement) or sometimes just back luck but are less common, or a nearing tolerance on a sensor just as regularly caused by the rusting under abs reluctor ring issue. If you google reluctor rings you will see the visuals and a picture always helps understanding.
I think the most important thing is to check the ring 'run out' by removing the sensor and insert something like a round ended peg or similar that won't damage anything up against the ring (never your finger if you want to keep it!) and turn the hub whilst checking for high spots or changes in the depth the item inserted displays, if they show up then you likely have the rust issue and will need to address it, mob will only sell you a complete shaft but the rings are a diddle once the shaft or hub is off. Some can be done in place by removing the hub carrier as the rings are part of the driveshaft although you need some serious cleaning to get the rust off sometimes.
I

I will have a look at the tone rings to see if there is rust. I think I will also watch all 4 wheel speed sensors on my oscilloscope. My issue seems a little different now: I get an engine/transmission ticking noise every time I full throttle and break traction. It feels like the front end of the car (or maybe engine) lifts up when I try to full throttle, but the car doesn't pick up speed fast. I am debating if the front 2 brakes are engaging to help ESP instead of kicking the engine RPM down. It is really weird. The RPM used to drop off when ESP told it to. Now the engine revs almost freely and I get the loud ticking noise instead. Is my tranny going out? MAF/MAP sensor?

Any help is appreciated. Let me know if I should post this under a new thread.
 

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Sorry I didn't see your responses. Yes, it was the right rear sensor. And yep, it went into limp mode briefly. I couldn't get it fixed right away because NO one had them in stock. All had to be ordered.

50 bucks from RM European, a car part store online, less than half the price from the dealer. A breeze to install.
How did you get the code read?
 

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Sorry I didn't see your responses. Yes, it was the right rear sensor. And yep, it went into limp mode briefly. I couldn't get it fixed right away because NO one had them in stock. All had to be ordered.

50 bucks from RM European, a car part store online, less than half the price from the dealer. A breeze to install.
How did you get the code read?
 
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