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Discussion Starter #1
Hey guys.
My slk won't crank at all.

The backstory is that the first time it happened was back in 2009,
I took out the overload protection relay, as suggested on this site.
It was indeed a case of ruined soldering, and was resoldered by a professional electrician.

The car then drove without fault for 4 years and then
about a month ago I get in to start and,,, nothing, not even a crank. So I took out the relay module again and gave it a serious staredown for about 5 minutes, put it back in and the car started right back up.

then a couple of days later it happened again, so i took out the relay for the third time and noticed that the connectors on the module itself looked a little burned. So I gave them a little clean and the car did start, however a bit sluggishly though.

Then a couple of days later it happened again, so I took the relay out for the fourth time, stared at it furiously for some minutes, put it back in and turned the key.
Now is when it gets weird, I turned the key and after about a 2 second delay (normally it just immediately when the key is turned). I get one solid crank but nothing more, so i turn it again and after about a 2 second delay again i get one solid crank. Third time, nothing.

What is your take on this?
I've had the relay inspected by an electrician and he says it looks like new.
The search is not useful at all, there are about a million of these threads but only a handful of them actually get resolved.

Now before Jeff gets in here suggesting that it is the battery ;) as in several of other threads. I've tried jump starting the car but to no avail. If the battery were bad it should be able to be jump started without problems?
It measures 12.05V between the terminals and the same from + to the engine
,however the voltage drops down to about 11.95V after some start attempts.

The lights don't dim at all when the key is turned, suggesting the fault is electrical or is that only when the car actually cranks?
 

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Discussion Starter #2
Oh yeah, while I remember.
The cost of having the codes read is about $150
So every feedback or remark you might have is very much appreciated.
 

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Could it be starter solenoid? It doesn't crank at all right now? Even don't do "click click"?!
Another advice is to invest couple $$' in one of those not so expensive code readers. Perhaps it will read major codes and at least give you the idea what's wrong.
 

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2007 SLK350 fastdawg
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If you turn the key to crank and the voltage doesn't drop significantly then (still hangs around 12 volts), then it shouldn't be the battery. If it dropped down to 8 or 6 or 4 or so, then it would be the battery. I'm thinking the starter/solenoid, when you turn the key do you even hear any "clicking"? Like JaysonM said, invest in a code reader, it's not like you won't ever use it again more than likely.
 

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Discussion Starter #5
First of thank you for your suggestions.

Yes there is a single loud "click" when i turn the key, the starter solenoid sounds like a likely culprit,,, however is it possible that when I removed and reconnected the "k40" the last three times the starter solenoid suddenly worked?

also I should add that when it got going the car drove smoothly without a sign of fault, I did notice a check engine light last time it got going though.

and yeah i definitely agree that investing in a knockoff obd reader may be worthwhile, should not take more than a month to send to my desolate place :þ
 

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Discussion Starter #6

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Premium Member 2004 SLK200K
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Might be worthwhile investing in a new relay , have you checked the price , it might save you a few headaches in the long run ??
 

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