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I'm running into an issue with my Benz's trunk not shutting properly. It would take me three to four attempts to shut the trunk. Now my roof top will not work because of that. Any solution to fix my trunk latch issue?
 

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Trunk (Boot) lid not shutting

Hi

after a couple of months off the road I opened my boot (trunk) recently and a lot of water ran out of the general area of the catch. Odd, but I ignored it.

But now I have the same problem, my boot lid opens okay, but when I come to shut it, it just bounces back. Firmness doesn't seem to cure it.

By chance though, I fiddled with the rod that connects the boot lid button to the catch and discovered that it was in the position like the top photo below - if I twizzle it to the position in the lower picture the lid shuts perfectly.

I have doused the whole area in lubricant spray... is it easy to get at that catch mechanism and maybe see if corrosion has occurred?

Not good:


Good:
 

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I'm running into an issue with my Benz's trunk not shutting properly. It would take me three to four attempts to shut the trunk. Now my roof top will not work because of that. Any solution to fix my trunk latch issue?
I had exactly the same issue....check the plastic connecting rod between the lock and the latch, mine was sticking when you pushed the button to open the boot, then wasn't springing back, leaving the hook of the latch open, which also affected the switch in the latch, which told the control module that the boot is open, hence, the roof stopped opening or closing.
WD 40, wiggle it back and forth, ...fixed my problem.
 

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Registered 1997 SLK 230 Kompressor
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19 Posts
Trunk (Boot) lid not shutting

Hi

after a couple of months off the road I opened my boot (trunk) recently and a lot of water ran out of the general area of the catch. Odd, but I ignored it.

But now I have the same problem, my boot lid opens okay, but when I come to shut it, it just bounces back. Firmness doesn't seem to cure it.

By chance though, I fiddled with the rod that connects the boot lid button to the catch and discovered that it was in the position like the top photo below - if I twizzle it to the position in the lower picture the lid shuts perfectly.

I have doused the whole area in lubricant spray... is it easy to get at that catch mechanism and maybe see if corrosion has occurred?

Not good:


Good:
I had exactly the same issue....check the plastic connecting rod between the lock and the latch, mine was sticking when you pushed the button to open the boot, then wasn't springing back, leaving the hook of the latch open, which also affected the switch in the latch, which told the control module that the boot is open, hence, the roof stopped opening or closing.
WD 40, wiggle it back and forth, ...fixed my problem.

Hi,

First of all, sorry for bumping up an almost 2 year old thread, but I have exactly same problem now with my SLK 230 K (1997).

So by reading your replies, I'm not sure what part exactly should I lubricate? (or WD 40); this part what I marked in the picture below or should I lubricate the door latching mechanism from inside (after removing the plastic panel behind it)?

570820


And did this lubrication solved your problem permanently? This also happened to me after so much water was inside trunk, I don't know how it even came inside...

Thanks in advance.
 

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Super Moderator UK 2002 SLK320 Blue
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I'd suggest a lithium grease spray rather than WD40 for anything that needs lubricating.

Regarding the latch problem, I can't unfortunately help as I believe the latch is different between the pre- and facelift models. You might try looking at where the boot-mounted high-level brake light attaches to the boot lid as a source of the leak. The seal between the two has been known to fail.
 

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Premium Member 2001 SLK200K/2001 SLK320
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1,497 Posts
I'd suggest a lithium grease spray rather than WD40 for anything that needs lubricating.

Regarding the latch problem, I can't unfortunately help as I believe the latch is different between the pre- and facelift models. You might try looking at where the boot-mounted high-level brake light attaches to the boot lid as a source of the leak. The seal between the two has been known to fail.
Exactly ^^THIS^^

Will add that on our Posties, the catch seal itself fails and allows water to seep under the paint as there is barely any paint around the edge of that hole at all (shoddy work by the robots) .. hence the rust that's usually prevalent in that particular area.

We've also got a boot lid that appears to be a condensation magnet .. it has to go somewhere
 

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Registered 1997 SLK 230 Kompressor
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Both members have been on in recent months, but are not daily visitors.

Folks shout about using WD40 as it is solvent based.

A couple of other members who may have insight to this.
@Dave2302
@M4rCu5
@Turdo2
@Simon cliffe
@savcom
I'd suggest a lithium grease spray rather than WD40 for anything that needs lubricating.

Regarding the latch problem, I can't unfortunately help as I believe the latch is different between the pre- and facelift models. You might try looking at where the boot-mounted high-level brake light attaches to the boot lid as a source of the leak. The seal between the two has been known to fail.
Exactly ^^THIS^^

Will add that on our Posties, the catch seal itself fails and allows water to seep under the paint as there is barely any paint around the edge of that hole at all (shoddy work by the robots) .. hence the rust that's usually prevalent in that particular area.

We've also got a boot lid that appears to be a condensation magnet .. it has to go somewhere
Thank you a lot everyone for replies!

I'll try to inspect tomorrow this high level brake light part could it be a source of leakage.
Because when I open a trunk door then the water leaks from the above lid and dropping down to trunk. I also found out today from reading other threads here that the central locking pump (PSE) is down in the bottom of the trunk and can get broken because of the water. So I definitely must fix this leakage before the PSE get's broken. I didn't even know it's down in the trunk.

BTW in case that this upper high brake light area is is a source of leaking water, how can I fix it? By replacing the brake light panel or?

I ill also inspect these draining holes around the trunk lid if they are clogged with dirt.

Damn, this problem is now worrying me so much.. This water can do so much damage.
 

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Premium Member 2001 SLK200K/2001 SLK320
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1,497 Posts
BTW in case that this upper high brake light area is is a source of leaking water, how can I fix it? By replacing the brake light panel or?

I ill also inspect these draining holes around the trunk lid if they are clogged with dirt.

Damn, this problem is now worrying me so much..

Gotta be honest in saying that mine wasn't leaking there at all but running a bead of silicon around the hole pre-reassembly wouldn't hurt ...


So ..

IF the upper brake light is the same as the post facelift and going purely from memory so excuse me if I've missed anything, it's been a while .. :unsure:


You will need long-nosed / needle-nosed pliers and a couple of decent screwdrivers

Sit in the boot with your legs dangling out and get something comfortable to support you 'cos you'll be there a while :)

Remove the black plastic panel inside the boot lid, I'm sure it's 3 plastic 2-piece rivets that hold that panel.
Now you should have access to rear of the high-level brake light.

- it's in 3 sections - a black piece (lamp carrier), a chrome piece (lamp housing) and the red bit (lens) -

The black piece has to come off first and I'm fairly sure that it's clipped in, separate the wiring plug and socket and carefully unclip the black bit from the chrome bit .. a PITA as I recall

Next up, stay where you are and carefully push the red tabs outwards, this is where the needle-nose pliers come in handy, grab a tab and push a couple of mm forwards, move on, rinse + repeat, baby steps, there's about 10 or 12 tabs in total, don't break any, take your time and these will separate the red bit from the chrome bit .. eventually ;)

Hopefully, you haven't broken anything at this point and you can now access the 3 screws from the outside that hold the chrome bit in place, remove those and there you go, it's out (y)

Reassembly is a simple reversal, a lot simpler than disassembly :p
 

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Registered 1997 SLK 230 Kompressor
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19 Posts
Gotta be honest in saying that mine wasn't leaking there at all but running a bead of silicon around the hole pre-reassembly wouldn't hurt ...


So ..

IF the upper brake light is the same as the post facelift and going purely from memory so excuse me if I've missed anything, it's been a while .. :unsure:


You will need long-nosed / needle-nosed pliers and a couple of decent screwdrivers

Sit in the boot with your legs dangling out and get something comfortable to support you 'cos you'll be there a while :)

Remove the black plastic panel inside the boot lid, I'm sure it's 3 plastic 2-piece rivets that hold that panel.
Now you should have access to rear of the high-level brake light.

- it's in 3 sections - a black piece (lamp carrier), a chrome piece (lamp housing) and the red bit (lens) -

The black piece has to come off first and I'm fairly sure that it's clipped in, separate the wiring plug and socket and carefully unclip the black bit from the chrome bit .. a PITA as I recall

Next up, stay where you are and carefully push the red tabs outwards, this is where the needle-nose pliers come in handy, grab a tab and push a couple of mm forwards, move on, rinse + repeat, baby steps, there's about 10 or 12 tabs in total, don't break any, take your time and these will separate the red bit from the chrome bit .. eventually ;)

Hopefully, you haven't broken anything at this point and you can now access the 3 screws from the outside that hold the chrome bit in place, remove those and there you go, it's out (y)

Reassembly is a simple reversal, a lot simpler than disassembly :p
Thanks ;)

BTW just remembered something. On summer I was replacing the plastic plate number holder with a metal one and placements of holes for screws were on different places on this metal one so I manage to attach this plate with only two screws (these black plastic ones), and other holes I didn't close with anything. Forgot the total number of them, but maybe these holes are places from where water comes inside the trunk. Because when I wash it with mini-wash some of water probably goes behind plates and then it may go inside. Damn, then I didn't even think about it may cause this trouble :|

Do you have idea how (with what) can I seal these screw holes to protect them from water leaking trough?
 

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Super Moderator UK SLK 55 AMG 2007
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25,576 Posts
Me, me chisel (screw driver), and hammer (large spanner) are on a 24/7 call out.

@Shred
If you are worried about water and the pse...
Couple of diys on PSE. One of which mentions remounting it upside down.
See R170 diys.

Remove the spare wheel and examine the recess at the bottom.
There is a large rubber bung that perishes with time that is a drain point.
 

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Registered 1997 SLK 230 Kompressor
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19 Posts
Me, me chisel (screw driver), and hammer (large spanner) are on a 24/7 call out.

@Shred
If you are worried about water and the pse...
Couple of diys on PSE. One of which mentions remounting it upside down.
See R170 diys.

Remove the spare wheel and examine the recess at the bottom.
There is a large rubber bung that perishes with time that is a drain point.
Will examine this tomorrow. I didn't even know that PSE device is down there until today xD Gotta see how it even looks like and in what condition it is.
 

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Just to add as one of the original posters on this thread that I did remove some plastic covers and spray WD-40 onto the actual catch mechanism itself, and this 'cure' lasted quite a long time - but has now returned. Fair enough really. So I am going to re-apply lubricant, maybe this time try lithium spray. I also discovered that the well containing my locking pump (PSE) was one of the few places where I have a rust problem, so worth taking a look if you never have.
 

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Super Moderator CA 2012 SLK55 AMG w/P30
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11,984 Posts
WD40 is a solvent. Lithium spray is a lubricant. NOT the same.

Clean that mechanism as thoroughly as you can THEN use the lubricant.
 

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Registered 2002 SLK320
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1,778 Posts
WD40 is a solvent. Lithium spray is a lubricant. NOT the same.
/\ /\ /\ Exactly This !!

I will use WD40 to free things up and clean the gunk out of them, I buy it cheap as chips in 5 litre Can with a free Sprayer ...............

But ....... As discussed, it will dry out in time, so once the parts are moving and clean, dry them off and use Lithium Grease, or in our salty climate I actually use Marine grade grease which does last long term ;)

"Dave's Tip of the Week" lol :-

With items like Lock Barrels which are usually Cast Ally, with Brass Tumblers and Steel Springs, (so lots of dis-similar metals electrolysis going on), soaking them overnight in Vinegar first yields good results before WD40 and then Grease treatment :)

HTH,
 

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Registered 1997 SLK 230 Kompressor
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19 Posts
Just to add as one of the original posters on this thread that I did remove some plastic covers and spray WD-40 onto the actual catch mechanism itself, and this 'cure' lasted quite a long time - but has now returned. Fair enough really. So I am going to re-apply lubricant, maybe this time try lithium spray. I also discovered that the well containing my locking pump (PSE) was one of the few places where I have a rust problem, so worth taking a look if you never have.
WD40 is a solvent. Lithium spray is a lubricant. NOT the same.

Clean that mechanism as thoroughly as you can THEN use the lubricant.
So here is my update:

I sprayed yesterday this rod's joints which are shown in the picture below with WD40 (for lubrication with silicone (pic also below)) and it didn't solve my problem.

570879


So this red-marked part I was spraying and also the other joint from this rod which is inside connecting to the latch system. Using the WD40 below:

570880

(It says on product that this WD-40 is for lubrication for metal and PVC)


So what I did wrong? Do I need another WD40, like the classic blue one? Or I was spraying the wrong parts? Or both?

So, @PaulXLE , what exactly part did you spray can you explain, and did you use the classic WD-40, i think that's the blue one?
 
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