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Registered 2006 SLK350
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76 Posts
Discussion Starter #61
Feels more like a hard day's night over here!

OK so here is todays progress so far. I'm missing a module altogether near the battery, and I knew about this and kept doing other things and forgetting it in my haste to get the car back together.
B31 (C-AAC Multifunction Sensor)

I need to slow down sometimes. I'm getting SAM communications errors, but that must be doing something because it has power and fuses for other things that are working, like OBD port fuse. I'm also getting a lot of air conditioning system errors relating to can communications and air flaps. Further research and the module is well documented here, if I have digital climate I need this box. I have digital climate and I do not have this box. Off to order another used module.

In other news I reached out for some help with the gateway coding as suggested. I have to get a couple things in order on my end and can move forward with that.
 

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Premium Member 2005 SLK350
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2,412 Posts
The multi sensor mounts next to the battery on the inside of the fender. Here is a pic. You may have connections disconnected for some of those other faults.
584125
 

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Registered 2006 SLK350
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76 Posts
Discussion Starter #63
Yes that's it alright! Looks like this part number is in a lot of different models as well. I guess I should make another junk yard run in the morning and see if there is one I can try tomorrow. If not I have found several on ebay for as little as 10 dollars so worst case, more waiting.

"
This is for 2003 ~ 2009 Mercedes Benz S500, Mercedes Benz SL500, Mercedes Benz S550, Mercedes Benz S55, Mercedes Benz S600, Mercedes Benz SL600, Mercedes Benz E350, Mercedes Benz CLK500, Mercedes Benz CLK550, Mercedes Benz E55, Mercedes Benz SL55, Mercedes Benz E430, Mercedes Benz CLK430, Mercedes Benz CLK63, Mercedes Benz E550, Mercedes Benz S63, Mercedes Benz SL550, Mercedes Benz E500.
Please compare the part number(s): 2118300472, 211 830 0472, 211 830 04 72 "

Roof system reports a fault with the rear window relay. Both rear windows are going down so I am not sure what's the matter here yet. I noticed the latches are operating, I can ever so slightly lift the roof. I have decided to try and repair the thing before I open it manually, I am trying to figure out which relay to replace now. I only see a heated rear window relay on the diagram.
 

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Premium Member 2005 SLK350
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2,412 Posts
The sensor is used in a bunch of cars and there are only about a million E Calsses in the junk yards. I think $10 is about what I paid for my sensor when I upgraded to the digital unit. One of our experts, @efair should be stopping by to see what is going on shortly. Roof issues are his specialty.
 

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Registered 2006 SLK350
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76 Posts
Discussion Starter #65
yesterday I noticed fuse 40 was blown when checking fuses for the nav unit. Just happened to notice it was blown when I pulled fuse 39. I replaced it, later finding it's a fuse for the diagnostic port so I thought I must have shorted it plugging my adapter in. Turns out there is more to it. I replaced the rear window heater relay with an exact spare. didn't expect anything different. But when I went to put the top up fully, fuse 40 blew again with a loud click as the rear windows hit the seals at the top.
 

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Registered 2006 SLK350
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76 Posts
Discussion Starter #67
Well I spoke too soon. both rear windows do not always go up and down as they should and that is likely the problem with the roof. The driver's rear window only works when it wants to. Also probably the reason for the blown fuse as the windows were closing. Might have to swap that window motor for a different one. I did however manage to get the roof off of this thing this evening with a little fiddling. I discovered if I lift the roof a bit by hand while its unlatched gravity takes over and the top will go all the way down. Which I doubt is normal operation. When I first noticed this I had the trunk lid in a partially tilted position from trying the switch, and as soon as I got the roof to move the car threw a fit and locked me out from using the switch anymore. So I let the pressure off the system which allowed me to open the trunk up to accept the roof, but it wouldn't stay open so I used a bungee again, this time to hold the trunk lid open by attaching it to the bumper. Then I lowered the roof slowly and helped the flap shelf thing do it's thing a little and the roof was down.
 

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Registered 2006 SLK350
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76 Posts
Discussion Starter #68
For a while the switch stayed locked out and I was scared. I connected the computer because I found out you can operate the rear windows with the diagnostics. I can operate the passengers side just fine. The drivers I can bump back and forth a little, but its not normal operation and I got a windows (as in PC operating system) error, so no more of that. I know the window was blowing the diagnostic fuse so I probably should not try to use it anymore while the computer is hooked up until I fix it. I disconnected the battery, tightened the pressure release plug and reconnected it. The switch is working again, and the top leapt up, closed and latched almost as if to apologize for giving such a fight to lower it. It was cool. It won't open again though. And guess what? The tail lights are running again.
 

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Registered 2006 SLK350
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76 Posts
Discussion Starter #70
Glad to see folks are enjoying the project. Just wrapped up at parts yard number 2 today and am headed home. The pollution sensor was more difficult to source than I had hoped but I managed to find one in a sedan that looks clean and appears to be the correct part.
584196
 

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Premium Member 2005 SLK350
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2,412 Posts
Glad to see folks are enjoying the project. Just wrapped up at parts yard number 2 today and am headed home. The pollution sensor was more difficult to source than I had hoped but I managed to find one in a sedan that looks clean and appears to be the correct part.
That's the correct one. Good score.
 

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Premium Member 1999 SLK230-sold
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15,583 Posts
Very nice detailed write up. Five thumbs up for that. I am really impressed how you moving just along and stay focused on your project in our neighbor hood it would take years because of too many beer runs and discussing the project and details over too many beers. 😁 😟 😁
 

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Registered 2006 SLK350
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76 Posts
Discussion Starter #73
584217
584218


This is the circuit board inside the drivers SAM. There is some surface mount component on it that is burnt up. It appears to only have 2 contacts and may be simple to solder a new one to this board if I can find the part. There is no way I'm paying new prices on this part although I would prefer a brand new one. My luck the next one I drop in will fry immediately. I'm going to email Hella about this, they built the thing maybe they have some solution. I have found some used R171 sams, but the only one with this same part number says not working for parts only. I'm gonna pass on that one.


It wasn't all bad news today. I got the ac system to a point it is reporting 0 faults. Had a wire unplugged for the vent flaps, thats all squared away. Installed the hood grilles but realized I need to run the wiring for the nozzles through the hood, which seems to be missing the hoses to said nozzles and possibly a flexible boot between the hood and body. Every time I look at this thing I find more parts missing. :) I know I said I wasn't going to run the engine anymore but I did anyways. I need to figure this car out 100% and I needed the alternator to juice the battery. I put 5 gallons of premium in it last night and a half bottle of techron additive they gave me for free when I bought my battery. I cleared the engine codes to see what would come back. Let the engine run for about 40 minutes while I watched the coolant temp, then came inside for the night. Ran it again for about 15 minutes today. There are only 3 engine codes now, and 2 of them are secondary air pump. The third is a short circuit for outside temp sensor, which is reporting 145 degrees. I'm not worried about this one, because I think that burnt up thing on the SAM is related to this temp sensor error. The wiring and connector for the temp sensor look mint. So long story short, no camshaft codes. This engine runs great, it's just being hampered by an iffy electrical system in the car at the moment. It has yet to stall and has started every time I've tried it and runs until I switch it off. Idles around 850-900 and a cylinder error test in DAS shows 0 errors across all 6 at any RPM range within the test limits. Oxygen sensor readings are perfectly centered in the acceptable range.



Oh yeah, at the parts yards today I got the pollution module I needed, some spare cam position sensors and solenoids, lower engine cover clip I had been looking for, and some fakra radio harnesses for another project I'm working on.

part number 1715450801 I'm coming for you
 

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Premium Member 2008 SLK350
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2,515 Posts
I have found some used R171 sams, but the only one with this same part number says not working for parts only.

part number 1715450801 I'm coming for you
You do not need that a SAM with that exact partnr. Any SAM with a partnr from the list here under will do. Best is one with the highest partnr, as this is has some improvements. Early SAM's with lower partnr often cause intermittent A/C failures. Lots of threads about it here. If you can find one chose A....1601. SAM needs to be coded to match your car anyway.


584224
 

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Premium Member 2005 SLK350
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2,412 Posts
This is the circuit board inside the drivers SAM. There is some surface mount component on it that is burnt up. It appears to only have 2 contacts and may be simple to solder a new one to this board if I can find the part. There is no way I'm paying new prices on this part although I would prefer a brand new one. My luck the next one I drop in will fry immediately. I'm going to email Hella about this, they built the thing maybe they have some solution. I have found some used R171 sams, but the only one with this same part number says not working for parts only. I'm gonna pass on that one.


It wasn't all bad news today. I got the ac system to a point it is reporting 0 faults. Had a wire unplugged for the vent flaps, thats all squared away. Installed the hood grilles but realized I need to run the wiring for the nozzles through the hood, which seems to be missing the hoses to said nozzles and possibly a flexible boot between the hood and body. Every time I look at this thing I find more parts missing. :) I know I said I wasn't going to run the engine anymore but I did anyways. I need to figure this car out 100% and I needed the alternator to juice the battery. I put 5 gallons of premium in it last night and a half bottle of techron additive they gave me for free when I bought my battery. I cleared the engine codes to see what would come back. Let the engine run for about 40 minutes while I watched the coolant temp, then came inside for the night. Ran it again for about 15 minutes today. There are only 3 engine codes now, and 2 of them are secondary air pump. The third is a short circuit for outside temp sensor, which is reporting 145 degrees. I'm not worried about this one, because I think that burnt up thing on the SAM is related to this temp sensor error. The wiring and connector for the temp sensor look mint. So long story short, no camshaft codes. This engine runs great, it's just being hampered by an iffy electrical system in the car at the moment. It has yet to stall and has started every time I've tried it and runs until I switch it off. Idles around 850-900 and a cylinder error test in DAS shows 0 errors across all 6 at any RPM range within the test limits. Oxygen sensor readings are perfectly centered in the acceptable range.

Oh yeah, at the parts yards today I got the pollution module I needed, some spare cam position sensors and solenoids, lower engine cover clip I had been looking for, and some fakra radio harnesses for another project I'm working on.

part number 1715450801 I'm coming for you
There are three newer versions of the front SAM that you should add to your search - probably in favor of the original SAM. They updated the SAM several times almost never hear of someone having an issue with the new ones. The numbers, in order, are:

171 545 11 01
171 545 15 01
171 545 16 01

Used ones often go for about $200. Good news on the A/C and other advances.
 

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Registered 2006 SLK350
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76 Posts
Discussion Starter #77
Osi, I had read that the digital climate controls would not go to sleep without the module by the battery which is why I wanted it so badly, trying to stop battery drain issues. You should find just one harness loose in your battery compartment, and that is where this thing plugs in.

My AC controls are always illuminated, the only time I see them go out is momentarily while unlocking or locking the car with the key fob. This pollution sensor module did nothing to change that, but now we see my car indeed has some serious electrical problem. Mchild and SneakyPete thank you for your help on this!

So as of now the SLK is electrically dead for the time being. This sam is not going back into the car. I will be lucky to find that nothing else is wrong electrically. I'll order one and for the time being I will be focusing on reassembly and cleaning. Thank you again for the info on the updated SAM part numbers, no point in putting another shoddy one in the car.
 

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Premium Member 2005 SLK350
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2,412 Posts
Osi, I had read that the digital climate controls would not go to sleep without the module by the battery which is why I wanted it so badly, trying to stop battery drain issues. You should find just one harness loose in your battery compartment, and that is where this thing plugs in.

My AC controls are always illuminated, the only time I see them go out is momentarily while unlocking or locking the car with the key fob. This pollution sensor module did nothing to change that, but now we see my car indeed has some serious electrical problem. Mchild and SneakyPete thank you for your help on this!

So as of now the SLK is electrically dead for the time being. This sam is not going back into the car. I will be lucky to find that nothing else is wrong electrically. I'll order one and for the time being I will be focusing on reassembly and cleaning. Thank you again for the info on the updated SAM part numbers, no point in putting another shoddy one in the car.
Of course we don't know what they did with each update to the SAM, but clearly they were doing something so the later version is genrally better. The real issues that most of us have had to deal with is with the original SAM that ended in 00 01. The latest SAM is tough to find in the salvage yards, but the 11 and 15 can be found. In fact, here is an 11 for . . . guess it - $199.99. And they will consider an offer. 2006 2007 2008 Mercedes-Benz SLK280 SAM FUSE BOX OEM | eBay

Since your SAM is dead, you may have to use the replacement without coding it and hope that it will have most if not all of your options already coded in.

If these cars don't go to sleep, such as the A/C controller always lit, the battery fully drains fairly quickly. I suspect you have found that out.
 

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Registered 2006 SLK350
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Discussion Starter #79
Hmm. Well at that price point it would be worth a try. I'll shoot them an offer on the low side and try to get it cheap.

I also found this:

I wonder if that module comes ready for coding? I already have to link up with i860 and work on the central gateway issue, which now will have to wait due to this front sam ordeal anyways. I'm trying to think what is best. My car was optioned for cornering lights. I don't really care about that, but I would like to have a pair of functional fog lights without adding another switch or relays. I should probably drill down and sort the fog light harnesses before I plug any other sams into this thing...
 

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Premium Member 2005 SLK350
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2,412 Posts
Hmm. Well at that price point it would be worth a try. I'll shoot them an offer on the low side and try to get it cheap.

I also found this:

I wonder if that module comes ready for coding? I already have to link up with i860 and work on the central gateway issue, which now will have to wait due to this front sam ordeal anyways. I'm trying to think what is best. My car was optioned for cornering lights. I don't really care about that, but I would like to have a pair of functional fog lights without adding another switch or relays. I should probably drill down and sort the fog light harnesses before I plug any other sams into this thing...
No, all components from MB - whether new or a re-man, will be without coding. What are you calling cornering lights - they turn with the steering wheel turn? Fog lights are standard on all SLKs in the US so the used SAM will be coded for that.
 
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