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2001 SLK 320 trans issue.

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21K views 647 replies 19 participants last post by  SlickgoingSLK 
#1 ·
Hello all. I am new here and hope I'm in the right area.
I have a SLK320 I just bought. It sat for about a year but I just got it running today.
I took it on test drive and noticed it stayed in what seemed to be first gear. Even if I push shifter to plus side still only first gear..
Hoping to get some info on this.No check engine light on but it has ABS lights on and srs light on
Thank you
 
#2 ·
I checked auto trans fluid with a dip stick I have for my C230 and with car running in park at 50°c I see nothing on the stick. This car sat for little over a year. I'm amazed it drove in first gear. Now my question is.I googled type of fluid I can use for my SLK320 and one choice was.
Castrol - Transmax ATF Full Synthetic Multi-Vehicle Automatic Transmission Fluid.. Is this ok to use? Or Valvoline max full synthetic ?
 
#8 ·
Ok I tried to drive car today as I added trans fluid. Car backed up fine and drove 10' and then all of a sudden no response from gas pedal..I could pump pedal and nothing.. Car would go into drive or reverse but pedal did nothing.So I turned car off and started it up again. Then pedal worked as everything was fine.
Anyone know what's going on here? .
Would appreciate any help thanks
 
#11 ·
The no shift could be due to low fluid but it could be in limp home mode due to the other issues turning on the SRS and ABS lights. I had exactly this happen on my 1997 230. It turned out to be a faulty K40 relay module. I would recommend getting the car on SDS and see exactly what faults you have before throwing parts at it.

Sent from my SM-T290 using Tapatalk
 
#13 ·
IF ABS light is on the TCU will likely not shift the Transmission as it needs to see Wheel speed info from ABS Sensors ;)

also agree with @borris1954 The ABS / ESP relay inside the K40 also powers Auto Boxes TCU ;)

Get it diagnosed on SDS before wasting tons of money on Parts Darts (y)
 
#15 ·
Thanks for all the great advice and yes I have an OBD2 tester when I check car it had 5 codes. PO500 PO141 PO446 PO600 PO450. Nothing about the pedal sensor. The one that stays on is the PO500 guess I'll start by replacing speed sensor and see what happens.
I will check the K40 relay. Where is that located btw?
My scanner can do live data also.
I guess that's why car was only 500.00 A lemon lol
 
#16 ·
At 500.00 it's not a lemon, it is a cheap car for fixing up that will need repairs. Very worthwhile exercise if you can do the repairs yourself with help from myself and the other experts on this Forum ;)

OBD readers are no good on these cars. If you keep getting P0500 yes that is a Vehicle Speed Sensor, but on Mercedes and a lot of cars, it senses Vehicle Speed from the four Road Wheel Speed Sensors, i.e. ABS Sensors, so you need to know which one. Bearing in mind that particular Code it is unlikely you have a K40 issue.
Still need proper diagnosis before opening wallet though ;)

Your code is just a generic Code generated by an OBD reader that it seems is only accessing the Engine ECU, which is only receiving a CAN Communicated Error from the ABS / ESP Module ;)

I don't advise guys using SDS for fun lol ;)

In the instance of ABS / ESP you get lucky, because any half decent garage should have a Snap On, Launch, Bosch, Autel etc brand machine and that will access ABS / ESP to tell you which Sensor or it's Circuit is duff ;)

HTH (y)
 
#18 ·
Thank you for reply.
Yes a lemon lol but I did get good deal.
And I'm glad you guys are here to help. I appreciate it very much.
I am a mechanic but mostly Domestic not much for import. I guess at least I have mechanical knowledge.
I'm hoping to narrow it down to what speed sensor and I'm guessing the bad response or little response on pedal sensor could be due to these other problems.
I know throwing money at the problem could get costly..
Since it's a project. I'm going to take advice from all on here and do what I can.
I do have one question. Bear in mind I'm not very savy on Mercedes.
What is SDS? Some kind of tester?
 
#17 ·
Whether a failure becomes permanent, or intermittent very much depends on why it is failing.
Breakage would be permanent, weakness prior to a break would be intermittent, before eventual failure.

Best example of intermittent would be the old filament bulbs at home. Sometimes they flicker before eventual failure.
Other times they just blow.

Oxidised contacts on connections and fuses loose connection, dodgy earth, can be intermittent.
 
#19 ·
It's the dealership-level diagnostic tool, runs on a Windows laptop and there is a "mux" you need to use it. For your project, it will be well worth the cost to buy a clone - even though it will probably slightly exceed the purchase price of your car. Talk to i860 when you're ready to pull the trigger. For some repairs you can get away with a lesser product, but if I were you - SDS.
 
#20 ·
In a nutshell, SDS is MBs own version of a scanner.
Generic scanner will do some work, but SDS will talk to all the ECUs.


Not sure if I already posted this, but it is a good resource for a beginner working on the 170s.
 
#22 ·
Don't waste your money. Buy the SDS and then when you have learned a bit you can start charging others to fix their Mercedes Vehicles.

Generics only access approximately 4 out of circa 15 computers on R170, and even then, they do not do version Coding, Guided Testing etc etc etc.
Stuff like ICM, PSE, CCM, VR, ATA will not be seen by a generic, and all module access is needed on any Mercedes, or you will still be playing ....



You say you are a mechanic, surely you must see the opportunity to earn money, as I did many years ago.
 
#24 ·
Don't waste your money. Buy the SDS and then when you have learned a bit you can start charging others to fix their Mercedes Vehicles.

Generics only access approximately 4 out of circa 15 computers on R170, and even then, they do not do version Coding, Guided Testing etc etc etc.
Stuff like ICM, PSE, CCM, VR, ATA will not be seen by a generic, and all module access is needed on any Mercedes, or you will still be playing ....



You say you are a mechanic, surely you must see the opportunity to earn money, as I did many years ago.
Yes I'm not a certified mechanic but have been working on cars for 35 years.My father was a certified mechanic and he taught me from when I was 15 years old
But really never worked on imports except the usual tune ups fluid changes things like that.
This is a bit of a challenge!
I wish I had 8 or 900.00 to spend on a SDS.
My OBD2 scanner does display the problem and code. It says PO500 speed sensor A
I'm wondering if that pinpoints Wich one (A)
 
#26 ·
Speed sensor A is left front wheel.
Please report the outcome of that, I just hope your "scanner" is correct, most aren't, the members on here have often proved that.
 
#28 ·
It surfaces across several Forums I visit when the need arises 🤣
 
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#36 ·
 
#37 ·
Thanks you guys for all the help.Ill check all this out on here.
I just received the speed sensor in mail and will install it tomorrow.
I will also check trans plug and see if it's soaked with trans fluid.
Also the K40 relay.
I read on here a guy has same problem as me And lights on and he replaced rear left speed sensor and it cured all his problems.
If abs stays on after replacing front sensor I'll try that
I have noticed my left blinker is not working front or back and on side mirror. Could this be related?
 
#38 · (Edited)
Ok update on speed/ABS sensor left front. I disconnected sensor from harness and put a volt ohm meter to the two prongs on sensor. Set meter to ohms with the buzer sound and turned rotor.. Nothing on meter 0.00
And no beep on and off.
I also tried the A/C setting and still as I spun rotor anl nothing 0.00
Looked at end of sensor that goes in hub and it's closed end.I also detached sensor and ohmed it and it's open.I figure it should have some kind of ohms
I'm assuming it's bad? Due to test?
Of course the sensor they sent me is wrong one 😐
I'm going to check all remaining wheel sensors just to be sure..
Can anyone here confirm the test
I did? Please.
I want to make sure I'm heading in right direction.
Thanks..
 
#40 ·
Ok update on speed/ABS sensor left front. I disconnected sensor from harness and put a volt ohm meter to the two prongs on sensor. Set meter to ohms with the buzer sound and turned rotor.. Nothing on meter 0.00
And no beep on and off.
I also tried the A/C setting and still as I spun rotor anl nothing 0.00
Looked at end of sensor that goes in hub and it's closed end.I also detached sensor and ohmed it and it's open.I figure it should have some kind of ohms
I'm assuming it's bad? Due to test?
Of course the sensor they sent me is wrong one 😐
I'm going to check all remaining wheel sensors just to be sure..
Can anyone here confirm the test
I did? Please.
I want to make sure I'm heading in right direction.
Thanks..
you talking about the sensor on the right rear wheel? If it's bad, the top will not go down.

gl
 
#39 ·
Hello all. I am new here and hope I'm in the right area.
I have a SLK320 I just bought. It sat for about a year but I just got it running today.
I took it on test drive and noticed it stayed in what seemed to be first gear. Even if I push shifter to plus side still only first gear..
Hoping to get some info on this.No check engine light on but it has ABS lights on and srs light on
Thank you
What model transmission you have?
this is how i fixed my 722.6 transmission.

1. check kick down switch just in case ( cheap fix)

2. check for oil in the electrical connector. (cheap fix)

My connector don't have oil so:

1. I replace a bad conductor plate
2. check all solenoid.
3. I used all Mercedes parts (didn't want to take change)
4. Buy Mercedes transmission oil

Part cost me about $300 for the kit and $1000 to install. (its not hard to replace, I just don't want to do it)

5. You must have a Mercedes scan tool that can remove error code, as it is hidden.
The car will not shift until this code is remove

look at my link below for info and scanner.


Hope this help. gl

:)
 
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