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Discussion Starter · #1 ·
New member to the forums who has picked up a 2000 SLK230 from an estate sell and going to be needing the help from the forums and members to bring her back to life. I’m located near Tampa Florida in Trinity and have cold beers and garage…

The Good:
Original 1 owner car from Florida
Only 54K miles and verified to be correct with Carfax
AMG Wheels

The Bad:
Does not run
Interior panels cracked and needs replaced but seats, door panels and upper dash are perfect
Front bumper needs re-sprayed

So car arrived last week and I started with a quick pressure washing and new battery, upon replacing the battery I noticed corrosion on the ECU and around the notorious K40 unit so I removed all the modules in this compartment and sprayed down with Deoxit D5 and opened the K40 for inspection of the solder joints. Anyone who doesn’t know about Deoxit D5 it is hands down is the best product for cleaning and protecting electrical connection, anyway everything was cleaned up and did not see any signs of cracked solder joints in the K40.

Put everything back together installed the new battery and car does not start or turn over. Dash lights up like a Christmas tree, windows work, signals work, radio turns on but no sound and cabin blower does nothing. The key FOB unlocks and locks so I don’t think she is immobilized. Fuel pump is not coming on and horn does not work.

Next I opened the K40 and manually toggled the relays and can get the horn to honk, fuel pump to start and various other components in the engine compartment to energize.

I likely will replace the K40 tomorrow and suspect I might have an ECU problem as well but figured I would reachout to the forums to get feedback and thoughts.

Any ideas or direction will be appreciated

BTW, tried my generic ODB reader and cant get it to talk to the ECU but thinking the K40 might energize the ECU?

 

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It sounds like you know your stuff pretty well, particularly starting with the K40 relay. I have a few thoughts, none of which may be right:

1) No power to/or bad starter.
2) Key/chip not programmed for the vehicle (possibly related to the PSE pump? But you mention the remote works the locks).
3) As you had mentioned, ECU troubles.
4) Fuse or K40 issues (which you are addressing).
5) Weak or bad battery (which you replaced already).

There are a good number of folks here with knowledge on the R170's that may chime in soon. A good many live in the Tampa area as well. I am not too far, being in Lakeland.

Obviously not related to starting issues, just a curious, does the top work?

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #3 ·
Tim, thanks for the feedback and glad to know there is a large community nearby. I have had a couple C-classes in my day so no stranger to Benz or German engineering but mostly been a BMW and Porsche guy but couldn't pass on buying this SLK and thinking of giving it to the wife for Christmas.

Something I forgot to mention is that the car has been sitting for 6 years so your point about key programming comes to mind.

Does the SLK have an immitter ring at th ignition that charges a chip within the key or does remote itself control the immobiler from the battery in the remote?

Reason I ask is I had a Z3 that had been sitting for 4 years that the chip in the key died and had to be taken to BMW for a new key.
 

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Yes there is an RF device inside the key and a ring around the ignition key. But if the chip is not working the symptom is a little different from what you mention.

The OBDII port isn't active until the key is in position II (normal running position).

Absolutely do re-flow all solder joints on the back of the K40 board. It takes so little time, and clears up so much, there's no good reason not to.
 

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Unclear to me, was the car running when you received it?

Definitely check the fuses and try replacing the K40 relay.

My understanding is that if the key is not recognized it will tell you on the dash where the mileage is supposed to show.

You could also have corrosion within the ignition. Or corrosion just about anywhere.
 

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Discussion Starter · #6 ·
Chris, car was not running when I got it and had been sitting and last registered 6 years ago. The estate sale included 6 cars grouped together and I am guessing the owner passed away. Can't say for sure if the car was even running 6 years ago but given the condition of the car and only 54k miles it was probably a weekender car or snow bird that came down for the winters. Who knows for sure.

I located a K40 not to far from me and hope to pick it up in the next couple of hours. Meanwhile cleaning and brushing all the grounds in the engine compartment.

Thanks
 

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Chris, car was not running when I got it and had been sitting and last registered 6 years ago. The estate sale included 6 cars grouped together and I am guessing the owner passed away. Can't say for sure if the car was even running 6 years ago but given the condition of the car and only 54k miles it was probably a weekender car or snow bird that came down for the winters. Who knows for sure.

I located a K40 not to far from me and hope to pick it up in the next couple of hours. Meanwhile cleaning and brushing all the grounds in the engine compartment.

Thanks
Where in Tampa are you? I am a student at USF so live near the university.
 

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Discussion Starter · #8 ·
So spent some more time going through the electrical system today and finding some very interesting problems. For the life of me I can not think of any logical reason why these wires would be cut other than intentionally done or a complete jackass tried working on the car. Anyway, I will be running out to get shrink tube tomorrow and will be busting out the soldering iron.

(1) Wires to the MAF completely cut off
(2) Grey wire to radiator module cut and power wires to radiator fan disconnected. Connected the grey wire and plugged in harness to the fan motor and now the fan comes on when turning the key to ACC.
(3) ASR wire chopped
(4) 3 wires coming from radio harness chopped (Green, Yellow and Blue)
(5) 5 wires in another harness chopped, not sure where these go yet.
(6) 4 wires connected to the center ground chopped. Also dont know where these go but they are light grey and light blue in color

If anyone wants to hook me up with a PDF on the electrical diagrams for this car I would appreciate it. With any luck maybe these cut wires will be my only problem and is preventing the car from starting. Cant imagine they are helping anything..

MAF Wires:


ASR and mystery harness:


Radio wires:


Fan Module:


Center Grounds:
 

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Discussion Starter · #10 ·
Thanks for the link, very useful and turns out that the light grey and blue wires in the center are not grounds and is a termination block for 58d circuit. The termination is X6/3 and does something with the gear selector and top switch. What exactly I am unsure of but if I were to guess the cut wires are preventing a signal that says its in park and ok to start.

Will test my theory tomorrow after soldering the wires.




don't forget IChris93 asked:

Where in Tampa are you? I am a student at USF so live near the university.

he can drive over :D

wiring database

http://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-se...ice-bulletin-tsb-wiring-diagram-database.html
 

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Discussion Starter · #12 ·
Good new is that radio now works after connecting all the chopped wires. Bad news is that it did not fix my problem and car still won't start. I did however jump the 3 relays from left hand side with toothpicks and car turned over and started for about 20sec so at least I know the engine is good. Car would not start on 2nd attempt and was turning over but seemed to have flooded out. 3rd attempt I wasn't able to get anything and thinking I blew a fuse somewhere by jumping these relays.

Was not able to get the local K40 and will call around to a couple salvage yards tomorrow unless any local members has a spare for sale.

Going to study the diagrams tonight to see where the control signals are coming from for these relays. Still unsure if I have a K40 issue or problem is upstream or immobilized.

If anyone has a K40 near Tampa let me know
 

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Discussion Starter · #13 ·
OK, looking at diagrams now and getting confused. MB electrical diagrams are the worse... So looking at relay coil circuits and see that there are feed connections from Z7/5, Z7/6 and Z7/24 which the diagram calls "circuit 87" and when I search SLK component locations i get the little black box next to the charge pipe. Is this correct and what exactly does it do?

 

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Do you have document pe07.61-u-2000-99aa (me-sfi)? They're shown connecting between the k40 and motronic, all on the far left hand side of the drawing. Did you replace or reflow the solder on your k40 yet?
 

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Discussion Starter · #15 ·
I don't have PE07.61-U-2000-99aa and could only find PE07.61-P-2000-99D. If you can send a screen shot that would be great.

I soldered all the K40 joints and toggled the relays and measured the coil resistance and everything checked out OK.

If I am understanding the drawing below correctly I should be getting a positive voltage at Z7/24 which I am not. The wire is red with blue stripe. I am trying to trace it back and it is probably in the drawing that I don't have and what you referenced. Or I could be wrong and Z7/24 is not a power source.


Do you have document pe07.61-u-2000-99aa (me-sfi)? They're shown connecting between the k40 and motronic, all on the far left hand side of the drawing. Did you replace or reflow the solder on your k40 yet?
 

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Good new is that radio now works after connecting all the chopped wires. Bad news is that it did not fix my problem and car still won't start. I did however jump the 3 relays from left hand side with toothpicks and car turned over and started for about 20sec so at least I know the engine is good. Car would not start on 2nd attempt and was turning over but seemed to have flooded out. 3rd attempt I wasn't able to get anything and thinking I blew a fuse somewhere by jumping these relays.

Was not able to get the local K40 and will call around to a couple salvage yards tomorrow unless any local members has a spare for sale.

Going to study the diagrams tonight to see where the control signals are coming from for these relays. Still unsure if I have a K40 issue or problem is upstream or immobilized.

If anyone has a K40 near Tampa let me know
Silly question, I know, but did you drain the gas tank and put fresh fuel in it? This is going back to it running 20 seconds or so.
 

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Discussion Starter · #18 ·
Was getting less than 1v at A2, A6, and N3/10 then was able to pickup a used K40 locally for $60 and put it in 2 hours ago and car started right up. Start problem resolved and thanks for everyone's input and direction to the diagrams. I drove the car around the block 2X and has a little sputter under acelaration but that can be expected from a car that has been sitting for 6 years and likely will need to drain the gas and replace the fuel filter.

Top still will not go down and cabin blower and AC controls not working but these items will have to wait till after Thanksgiving vacation.

Now that I know motor and trans are good I will be looking for my interior replacement parts. If anyone knows of a parts car or salvage yard with a good center console, glove box and speedo bezel let me know. I will be on the hunt...

More to come after the holidays.
 

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Was getting less than 1v at A2, A6, and N3/10 then was able to pickup a used K40 locally for $60 and put it in 2 hours ago and car started right up. Start problem resolved and thanks for everyone's input and direction to the diagrams. I drove the car around the block 2X and has a little sputter under acelaration but that can be expected from a car that has been sitting for 6 years and likely will need to drain the gas and replace the fuel filter.

Top still will not go down and cabin blower and AC controls not working but these items will have to wait till after Thanksgiving vacation.

Now that I know motor and trans are good I will be looking for my interior replacement parts. If anyone knows of a parts car or salvage yard with a good center console, glove box and speedo bezel let me know. I will be on the hunt...

More to come after the holidays.
Ahh, the K40 relay, one of the great mysteries of life.

Does the red button light up for the roof? Do you hear the pump at all? Or do you thing it's traced to one of the cut wires?

Tim
 

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Discussion Starter · #20 ·
Yea the dreaded K40 claims another victim and I over engineered the troubleshooting when my 1st thoughts were the K40. The kick in the ass is I globally manage PCBA manufacturing and know way to much about cold solder and failed relays and thought for sure the K40 was OK. When in doubt just replace it.


As far as the top red light in center does light and flash and I can hear pumps and stuff moving around in the trunk when pushing forward for the top up. Pushing backwards for top down I don't get anything. My guess is a switch or relearning position but see plenty of post and DIY stuff I need to get educated on.




QUOTE=El_Toro_33809;2457913]Ahh, the K40 relay, one of the great mysteries of life.

Does the red button light up for the roof? Do you hear the pump at all? Or do you thing it's traced to one of the cut wires?

Tim[/QUOTE]
 
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