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Registered 2003 SLK230
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Discussion Starter #1
I have a 2003 SLKK 230 that has a total of 41,000mi and the supercharger is very noisy at idle (can't really be heard over other noises at speed), so I want to pull it, replace all of the bearings, and replace the composite coupler.

Pelican publishes the procedure for the EARLIER Eaton M62 S/C that has the clutch pulley, but not the later M45 S/C.

I understand the procedure is different, but I cannot find the procedure online (yet), even by searching this forum.

Does anyone have a link, or can describe the procedure for me?

And 2), how many ounces of S/C oil does the M45 take after re-assembly?

Thanks,
Bob
 

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Registered 2003 SLK230
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52 Posts
Discussion Starter #3
Thanks-

I was planning to remove the unit completely to change the coupler inside, and at least replace the snout bearings if they felt at all "lumpy" when rotated.

It's hard to believe that at 38,000 mi the bearings or the coupler could be bad, but it makes a pretty loud "purring noise" (kind of a quiet rattle like a VW TDI idesel makes if you're 10ft from the car) at idle that is easily heard outside and inside the car when at idle. With the top down at speed it cannot be heard, but with the top up, it's still discernible.

The photos from your previous thread are great, and I think you for them. I did a search for "supercharger removal" and just "supercharger" and didn't pick up your posting, so my bad for not trying other word combinations that would have turned yours up.

I've heard the stuff stinks, but it will only be when I smell it will I probably appreciate the true nasty nature of it!

I realize that this is a highly subjective question (based on experience), but how long would you estimate removal should take? You disassembled your S/C to remove it (as Pelican did in their write-up) rather than removing the fan and radiator and removing the S/C complete. Would you do it the same way next time around? Pelican mentioned tight quarters and scratching up the engine bay sheet metal doing it in pieces (as opposed to taking the cooling system apart and jacking the engine off the engine mounts).
 

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Thanks-

I was planning to remove the unit completely to change the coupler inside, and at least replace the snout bearings if they felt at all "lumpy" when rotated.

It's hard to believe that at 38,000 mi the bearings or the coupler could be bad, but it makes a pretty loud "purring noise" (kind of a quiet rattle like a VW TDI idesel makes if you're 10ft from the car) at idle that is easily heard outside and inside the car when at idle. With the top down at speed it cannot be heard, but with the top up, it's still discernible.

The photos from your previous thread are great, and I think you for them. I did a search for "supercharger removal" and just "supercharger" and didn't pick up your posting, so my bad for not trying other word combinations that would have turned yours up.

I've heard the stuff stinks, but it will only be when I smell it will I probably appreciate the true nasty nature of it!

I realize that this is a highly subjective question (based on experience), but how long would you estimate removal should take? You disassembled your S/C to remove it (as Pelican did in their write-up) rather than removing the fan and radiator and removing the S/C complete. Would you do it the same way next time around? Pelican mentioned tight quarters and scratching up the engine bay sheet metal doing it in pieces (as opposed to taking the cooling system apart and jacking the engine off the engine mounts).
To be clear, I just found the post. I only changed the oil on mine while it was on the car. It looks pretty straight forward though and I'd think you could get it off in a couple hours. Before you do that though, have you thought about changing the oil on yours? Have you checked to see if you have enough? Are you sure it's the SC that's making the noise? The reason I ask is one the CLK that I bought a few weeks back had a terrible whine that I was pretty sure was an AC compressor. Nope, turns out it was an alternator. If you haven't already, get a long pry bar or stethscope and listen to the SC, alternator, idler pulley, water pump etc.
 

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Registered 2003 SLK230
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Discussion Starter #5
I did use a stethoscope, and the noise is the loudest on the S/C neck.

I have not attempted to check the S/C oil level, but the car has not leaked a drop of any fluid in the 7 years I've owned it (since it only gets used on blue sky days, the engine compartment has never been washed, so even a drop of any liquid would be quite evident), so I tend to think whatever was in the S/C is still in there. I bought the car used, of course, so I suppose it could have leaked out before my purchase, but that would be weird.

My noise is no louder at speed than at idle, and it's a rumbly purring not unlike listening to a VW TDI from about 10ft away. No metallic screeching sound. With a stethoscope against the snout, it sounds a bit like a bad belt tensioner or idler bearing, but those bearings are quiet.

It still troubles me that even at 38k it was making noise, but I guess even relatively new things can fail.
 
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