Installing the R172 version of the SmartTop Module

WhiteRabbit · Jul 3, 2011

2012 SLK 350 smartTOP Installation Addendum

This is an addendum to the installation guide for the smartTOP STHFMZ2 Control Module which can be found at: mods4cars product manual

IMPORTANT!!
here's link to the post about removing the rear speakers first: Installing the R172 version of the SmartTop Module

No need to disconnect the speakers!See post #189 for more info
mod edit: direct link to post 189

Installing the R172 version of the SmartTop Module

2012 SLK 350 smartTOP Installation Addendum This is an addendum to the installation guide for the smartTOP STHFMZ2 Control Module which can be found at: mods4cars product manual IMPORTANT!! here's link to the post about removing the rear speakers first: Installing the R172 version of the...

www.slkworld.com

GENERAL COMMENTS:
The smartTOP guide is quite good but there are some gray areas that I hope to clarify with this narrative.
The steps listed below refer to the steps in the original installation guide and any steps that are skipped are where the original guide works just fine as is.

The first thing to do is hook the module up to a computer and check for updates, when I did my installation there was an update for the module from a just couple of days earlier to version 1.11.

For any photos in the guide that showed any wiring, I printed out as full page photographs, these turned out to be quite handy.
Note that the actual space where the roof control module lives is pretty small and there is not much room to work in.

The roof control wiring connector that you have to swap wires on is quite small, which the photos in the guide don’t indicate. Make sure you have plenty of light where you do the installation so you can clearly see the connectors, slot/pin numbers, and wire colors.

The Torx screws holding the metal plate to the bulkhead are fairly large and a 3/8” ratchet socket wrench is recommended. I used a 1/4” ratchet wrench which worked but the larger size wrench would have been better.

WhiteRabbit · Jul 3, 2011

MY ADDITIONS TO THE GUIDE:

Guide Steps 1 – 2:

When removing the various Air Guide parts keep the right and left sides separate as most of the pieces are not interchangeable. Some of the parts are stamped with an ‘R’ or ‘L’ if you do mix them up. There is a rubber O ring on each of the mounting bases that are easy to lose.

WhiteRabbit · Jul 3, 2011

Guide Step 5:

When removing the center pocket on the rear bulk-head, first pull the top elastic part to the right to free that side’s clip from the slot underneath it and then pull the pocket towards the front of the car. That will release the clip from the slot completely. Then do the same for the left side.

Then push the whole pocket up from the bottom to free the four bottom clips from their slots, then pull the pocket towards the front of the car to release the clips completely from the remaining slots. Don’t force any of this - the clips on the back-side of the pocket are plastic and easily broken.

WhiteRabbit · Jul 3, 2011

Guide Steps 5 – 7:

IMPORTANT!!
here's link to the post about removing the rear speakers first: http://www.slkworld.com/slk-r172-ge...eral-discussion/22701-installing-r172-version-smarttop-module-4.html#post288005

No need to disconnect the speakers!See post #189 for more info

The next step is removing the cover that surrounds the roll-bars. If you have the Logic 7 sound system (and maybe stock) there is a speaker under the right side of the cover and another speaker under the left side of the cover. The wires running from the wiring harness to the speakers are quite short with little slack. Therefore, do not raise the roll-bar cover more than 2 – 3 inches. You have to remove the wire connectors from each of the side speakers before you can move the cover out of the way.

There is very little room to get your hand in a good position to release the connector from the speaker (I have big hands so it may be easier for other folks). For me, the speaker connectors would not budge and I broke one of them in the process. Only pull the connectors straight out from the speaker socket. If you try to wiggle them out by moving them left or right you’ll break it as I did. Take your time here as replacing the speaker connectors is a real pain in the ***.

What’s weird is the center speaker has the same connector and it released right away but it also is out in the open where you can get a good grip on it. Also the center speaker wires have plenty of slack - go figure!

If you do break a connector, the part number for the socket (plastic cap small) is 0305452828 and the part number for the crimp contact (female) is 0085455526. Both the crimp and the socket are quite small and delicate and difficult to install without the proper tools.

LewisGT1 · Dec 27, 2013

Smart Top install successful but...

WhiteRabbit said:
Guide Steps 5 – 7:

IMPORTANT!!
here's link to the post about removing the rear speakers first: http://www.slkworld.com/slk-r172-ge...eral-discussion/22701-installing-r172-version-smarttop-module-4.html#post288005

The next step is removing the cover that surrounds the roll-bars. If you have the Logic 7 sound system (and maybe stock) there is a speaker under the right side of the cover and another speaker under the left side of the cover. The wires running from the wiring harness to the speakers are quite short with little slack. Therefore, do not raise the roll-bar cover more than 2 – 3 inches. You have to remove the wire connectors from each of the side speakers before you can move the cover out of the way.

There is very little room to get your hand in a good position to release the connector from the speaker (I have big hands so it may be easier for other folks). For me, the speaker connectors would not budge and I broke one of them in the process. Only pull the connectors straight out from the speaker socket. If you try to wiggle them out by moving them left or right you’ll break it as I did. Take your time here as replacing the speaker connectors is a real pain in the ***.

What’s weird is the center speaker has the same connector and it released right away but it also is out in the open where you can get a good grip on it. Also the center speaker wires have plenty of slack - go figure!

If you do break a connector, the part number for the socket (plastic cap small) is 0305452828 and the part number for the crimp contact (female) is 0085455526. Both the crimp and the socket are quite small and delicate and difficult to install without the proper tools.

I broke the connections to the center and rear passenger speakers trying to remove them, and now I'm wondering if I get the replacement small plastic socket, first how do I remove the existing connector piece thats stuck in the socket and two, do i solder it back together? HELP!!!

WhiteRabbit · Jul 3, 2011

Guide Steps 5 – 7 Continued:

Looking at the photo below of the underside of the roll bar cover on the driver’s side below, I now realize that you may be able to remove each of the side speaker housings from the roll bar cover before the roll bar cover is lifted at all.
That would make disconnecting the speaker connectors much easier and must be how they do it at the factory in the first place. Something for someone else to try!

WhiteRabbit · Jul 3, 2011

Here are the socket and crimp connectors and their part numbers:

WhiteRabbit · Jul 3, 2011

Guide Step 9:

The guide says to loosen all of the ten Torx screws on the bottom of the metal plate, I actually removed the five on the passenger side to give me more room to work with.

Guide Steps 10 – 11:

I wedged the shipping box that the module came in into the space between the bulk-head and the metal plate to maximize the work space.

WhiteRabbit · Jul 3, 2011

Guide Step 12:

Pay attention to the slot numbers on the connector before tapping the wires to be sure that you have the correct ones.

WhiteRabbit · Jul 3, 2011

Guide Steps 13 – 15:

When the Guide refers to “pushing in the locking tab”, that tab is underneath the white ‘lever’ not to the side as the photo implies. Pushing up the bottom of the white lever while also pushing the lever to the right will free it.

WhiteRabbit · Jul 3, 2011

Guide Steps 16 – 19:

For all of these steps double check that you are working with the correct slot numbers on the connector and the correct wire colors before releasing the wire contacts from the connector.
Then double check that you have the correct wire color for the correct slot number before you push the wire contacts from the smartTOP wiring harness into the connector.
Finally make sure the wire colors match what the Guide says before making the connections in step 19.

WhiteRabbit · Jul 3, 2011

Guide Step 20:

After all the connections have been made and you have pressed the unlock button on the key fob once, make sure that the Green LED is blinking as stated in the Guide. This is the only chance you have to be sure the module is actually functional before you put everything back together.
You cannot do any other testing of the roof operation until everything is reassembled.

WhiteRabbit · Jul 3, 2011

When putting everything back together, the two carpet brackets are not interchangeable, but they are marked on the back which goes on the right side and which goes on the left side.

WhiteRabbit · Jul 3, 2011

One final note, when I had my module hooked up to my computer, I programmed all the settings I wanted. However, once the module was installed in the car, all the settings reverted back to the defaults. No big deal but something to be aware of.

I found the control matrix chart at the end of the smartTOP Operation and Programming Guide very useful when programming the module in the car and keep a copy of the matrix in the car.

etyu · Jul 3, 2011

Thank you for the write-up and tips.

jbanks15 · Jul 3, 2011

shall we move it to diy or leave it here in r172? Master Po (Woolly)?

lockheed1971 · Jul 4, 2011

I'm not bothered where it goes, just so long as Woolly peruses it first.:biglaugh:

pteam · Jul 3, 2011

Thank you this is awesome! I'm gonna have my mechanic install the smarttop for me sometime this week when it comes in. I've already received the "add a circuit" from slkstore, but the smarttop was shipped direct from the manufacturer and I havnt recieved it yet. Thanks for this writeup its awesome!

WhiteRabbit · Jul 4, 2011

pteam said:
Thank you this is awesome! I'm gonna have my mechanic install the smarttop for me sometime this week when it comes in. I've already received the "add a circuit" from slkstore, but the smarttop was shipped direct from the manufacturer and I havnt recieved it yet. Thanks for this writeup its awesome!

I don't know that the add-a-circuit will work for the R172 since the module is so far away from the fuse box.
That is one area where the R172 installation is less problematic than the R171 installation. The wires you tap for the power connection are very specific as to slot numbers. Whereas for the R171 you had to guess what wires to tap from a bundle of them.
Major kudos to Mods4cars to getting the R172 version out even before most of us could even order the car!!

jbanks15 · Jul 3, 2011

pteam, you can also click the 'thanks' button on the bottom right of anyone's post you wish to thank

Berliner Heckflosse · Jul 3, 2011

Omg Rabbit did you put any miles on the new car before you took it apart? And since it is a brand new R172 and lets just say something goes wrong how will it affect you warranty since you opened up the new Slk before the Mb Mechanic had a chance to learn on your new R 172?

WhiteRabbit · Jul 4, 2011

I had the car for two weeks and about 250 miles before I took it apart. Since I had prior experience with smartTOP for the SLK I was fairly confident that it would work out OK.

-1- · Jul 4, 2011

:tu:WhiteRabbit, EXCELLENT DIY tutorial. First R172 on this forum, first R172 SmartTop install. Thanks for all your first hand information and contributions.

WhiteRabbit · Jul 4, 2011

Thank you, maybe I should change my sig to - 1 R172 -?

jbanks15 · Jul 4, 2011

Kudos to you White Rabbit. I remember when you and I had the issues with the 09 facelift smarttop and you were the guinea pig for that also!

WhiteRabbit · Jul 4, 2011

Oink, oink.

pteam · Jul 5, 2011

Whiterabbit, and everybody really, I got my smart top today and there is already a new update out version 1.12 . Not sure if you can easily update it now that its already installed in the car.

etyu · Jul 5, 2011

If he followed the suggestion to thread the USB connection up to the central pouch on the vertical wall of rear cockpit bulkhead, then the software can be updated easily via a laptop with internet connection.

jbanks15 · Jul 5, 2011

Fantastic on the rebate. how did they know about it? you send it to them?

WhiteRabbit · Jul 5, 2011

They have an email newsletter that mentioned the rebate, so I sent them the link.
The rebate actually expired June 30th but they gave it to me anyway, a class act all the way.

Durkatlon · Jul 6, 2011

Amazing write-up, thanks rabbit. This altogether looks about 2 orders of magnitude more nasty than it was on the R171.

WhiteRabbit · Jul 6, 2011

Even so, it is well worth the effort and cost.

lockheed1971 · Jul 7, 2011

Thanks for the great write up. I can't wait to get one of these modules. My car may be the first 172 install for Woolly.
I hope it runs smoothly, or it may be his last!:biglaugh:

Woolly · Jul 7, 2011

lockheed1971 said:
. . . My car may be the first 172 install for Woolly.
I hope it runs smoothly, or it may be his last!:biglaugh:

Never killed one yet - but there's always a first time

( :biglaugh::biglaugh: )

noober · Jul 7, 2011

Insane guts, I tell you. I would never have the ability to do that to my car new car. For this mod, you'd have to get me pretty knocked out before I even thought about attempting this.

Amazing job, by the way. Many props to you.

lockheed1971 · Jul 8, 2011

I've just placed an order for the module. Hopefully it'll be here very soon.

I guess I'll be meeting Mr Woolly in the very near future.

Woolly · Jul 8, 2011

Should be looking at about 3 days delivery from the States, so should be here about the same time as you get your car.