Rear brake backing plate removal - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

SLK R171 General Discussion SLK 200, SLK 280, SLK 300, SLK 350, SLK 55 AMG

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#1 Old 03-08-2015
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Rear brake backing plate removal

Hello All!

I've had a bit of a weekend with my 280 rear brakes. Earlier this week I was reversing out of the drive when I noticed a strange tinny rubbing noise, long story short I stripped down the rear brakes of the car yesterday.

Looking through the wheel bold holes in the disk I could see what appeared to be a spare spring trapped in one of the handbrake shoe retaining springs, a poke with a screwdriver confirmed that it was this spring that was causing the issue, so it was disk removal time, after confirming that I didn,t need to remove the funny nut in the middle of the hub I managed to remove the disk with the aid of a 5lb mash hammer.

The spare spring was in fact one of the hand brake shoe retaing springs, so I thought that's an easy one just reinstall and everything should be fine and dandy, that is when I found out why the spring was free to roam in the drum. The disk backing plate has been got at by the dreaded tinworm and the spring had just pulled through the metal.

So the problem I've had a look at the WIS and I can find no reference to removing the backing plate, but observation says the wheel carrier flange has to come off to remove the backing plate, which looks like it's a job for the professionals, unless anyone on here knows different.

Does any one know how to replace the brake backing plate?

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#2 Old 03-08-2015
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This car has rear disk brakes with a drum and shoes operated emergency?

Surprising you'd have this much rust. Can you get a blow-up of the assembly? I wouldn't think this would be a difficult repair?
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#3 Old 03-09-2015
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I hate to make your day worse than it is already, but yes, the hub and shaft have to come off to get the backing plate on. Not a pleasant job - needs pullers and large torx socket (cannot remember the size) and then it is also new bearing and oil seal while you are at it.

However, depending on how much you do not want to pull the rear to bits, it is possible with a judicious cut into the back plate.

Take yours off and you will see what I mean. At one position, the plate will nearly slide over the hub. It is possible, and you will see this I am sure on many MBs, to make a shallow cut into the back plate so it will slide over the hub. Once you have the plate in front of you, it will apparent where to make the cut into the recess that is already cut.

The backing plate does not do anything stucturally, so a cut is not going to weaken anything, but bear in mind that it will allow dust into the brake drum, so, after the new plate is on cover it up with a small layer of GRP or such like…

I too am surprised the worm has attacked the plate. Do you live in a particularly salty environment? My concern is that if the plate has rusted, where else has it attacked? I am thinking of the lower swing arm which, under the plastic cover, is only pressed steel. Might be worth having a look.
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#4 Old 03-09-2015
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To help with Hal's suggestion here is a picture from the parts manual that might give you some guidance.
Attached Files
File Type: pdf BackingPlate.pdf (53.0 KB, 78 views)
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#5 Old 03-09-2015
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Regarding salt which is liberally used in Ohio during the winters along with beet juice and some other strange stuff, I always do a chassis wash in the Spring.

I have a small sprinkler attachment for my water hose. The sprinkler is the fixed kind, no rotating head, very shallow in height. I stick it under the car at each of the four corners for 20 minutes/per. Sometimes in the center too.

Of course, the Benz isn't subjected to the rigors of Winter, only the BMW is, so no loss there! LOL
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#6 Old 03-09-2015
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Hello All

Many thanks for all the replies!

I phoned an independent earlier today and he confirmed about the bearing having to be replaced when the flange is removed. He also talked about cutting the backing plate to get it over the flange.

So it looks as though this is the way to go.

Many thanks once again!

Regards
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#7 Old 03-09-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DSSG View Post
This car has rear disk brakes with a drum and shoes operated emergency?
Yes

Quote:
Originally Posted by DSSG View Post
Can you get a blow-up of the assembly?
Yes I have access to WIS and EPC

Quote:
Originally Posted by Hal Adams View Post
Do you live in a particularly salty environment?.
i live in Scotland, we put salt on everything!
My car is a daily driver so it sees most days unless there is actually snow on the road.
The rest of the underneath looks pretty clean but I'll take on board giving a thorough check whenI'm next going underneath it to do the job.

Regards
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#8 Old 1 Week Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffL View Post
Hello All

Many thanks for all the replies!

I phoned an independent earlier today and he confirmed about the bearing having to be replaced when the flange is removed. He also talked about cutting the backing plate to get it over the flange.

So it looks as though this is the way to go.

Many thanks once again!

Regards
GeoffL
Have the same problem on my 05 350. Grinding noise getting worse so investigated today. Both retaining springs completely disintegrated and when I tried fitting new shoes I found the backplate just crumbled around where the retaining springs are supposed to attach. Put it all back together with no shoes for now whilst I await a new backing plate Ł33 delivered from buyparts.co.uk I did remove the two torx screws to attempt removal of the backing plate but it didn't come loose. Anything else need to be undone first? Thanks. Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave100 View Post
Have the same problem on my 05 350. Grinding noise getting worse so investigated today. Both retaining springs completely disintegrated and when I tried fitting new shoes I found the backplate just crumbled around where the retaining springs are supposed to attach. Put it all back together with no shoes for now whilst I await a new backing plate Ł33 delivered from buyparts.co.uk I did remove the two torx screws to attempt removal of the backing plate but it didn't come loose. Anything else need to be undone first? Thanks. Dave
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#10 Old 1 Week Ago
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Hi Dave

There are the two torx bolts and two bolts around the D shaped hole in the inner circle of the plate (where the ends of the brake shoes rest), once these are out it should just fall off or with a medium level thwack with a persuading implement.

BTW I fully welded (mig) mine back together but I did see a uTube clip of some bloke cutting them so each half had one torx and one hex bolt holding it. Full kudos to someone who snips the new one and tigs it back together with minimal filler.

Hope that helps

Regards
Geoff

Just looked back through the thread and on the image there is shown the torx and hex bolts 140 and 150 respectively two of each on each side
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#11 Old 1 Week Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbanks15 View Post
FYI

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good news is that GeoffL is currently active
Indeed, but couldn't find a newer thread on the issue. It's one that must surely be getting more and more common as the cars get older, especially on UK salted roads. Possibly quite a dangerous fault as with loose shoes flapping around it could presumably lock a wheel. Certainly worth UK drivers ordering new backplates before undertaking a disc change IMHO Dave
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Indeed, but couldn't find a newer thread on the issue. It's one that must surely be getting more and more common as the cars get older, especially on UK salted roads. Possibly quite a dangerous fault as with loose shoes flapping around it could presumably lock a wheel. Certainly worth UK drivers ordering new backplates before undertaking a disc change IMHO Dave
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#13 Old 1 Week Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by GeoffL View Post
Hi Dave

There are the two torx bolts and two bolts around the D shaped hole in the inner circle of the plate (where the ends of the brake shoes rest), once these are out it should just fall off or with a medium level thwack with a persuading implement.

BTW I fully welded (mig) mine back together but I did see a uTube clip of some bloke cutting them so each half had one torx and one hex bolt holding it. Full kudos to someone who snips the new one and tigs it back together with minimal filler.

Hope that helps

Regards
Geoff

Just looked back through the thread and on the image there is shown the torx and hex bolts 140 and 150 respectively two of each on each side
Brilliant! Thanks Geoff. I did put it back in a bit of a rush as needed the car so didn't spot the other two bolts in the grime. Dave
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