Rear Suspension Rehab - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 1 Week Ago
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Rear Suspension Rehab

I'm in the midst of replacing the springs, shocks, bushings, control and thrust arms, sway bar link and, possibly, the rear hub bearings, as everything is out of the car to this point.


This is the starting point. on jackstand, with wheel off.
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File Type: jpg 01 Starting Point.jpg (25.8 KB, 1 views)
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#2 Old 1 Week Ago
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Next is removal of the brake caliper with a 16 mm wrench/socket ratchet.
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File Type: jpg 02 Behind Brake Caliper 16mm.jpg (25.4 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg 03 Hanging Caliper.jpg (28.6 KB, 1 views)
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#3 Old 1 Week Ago
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Then, I removed the sway bar link, and lower shock mount bolt.
The suspension is still supported by upper thrust and control arms as well as a tie rod link.
I couldn't get a wrench on the back of this sway bar link, so I went with the vise grips.
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File Type: jpg 04 sway bar link.jpg (26.5 KB, 2 views)
File Type: jpg 06 improvise on nut.jpg (40.5 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg 11 more sway bar link.jpg (36.4 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg 12 link out.jpg (39.6 KB, 1 views)
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#4 Old 1 Week Ago
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Removed rotor and axle hub spline nut. This one takes some effort. Once there is no weight on the car, you will need an impact or some leverage to hold the spindle in place while removing a nut with 145 ft lbs on it.
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File Type: jpg 28 Axle Hub Nut.jpg (30.7 KB, 0 views)
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Remove front bolt from spring carrier and the spring drops out. Their will be pressure from the spring, so you can use a second jack to keep pressure on it while you drive out the bolt, then release the jack allowing the spring to decompress slowly.
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File Type: jpg 13 drop the lower carrier.jpg (31.9 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg 14 parts.jpg (29.4 KB, 1 views)
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#6 Old 1 Week Ago
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The tie rod end came out next with the help of a fork. I wasn't trying to save it or I would have used a different separation method.
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File Type: jpg 18 tie rod link out.jpg (26.0 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg 17 breaking the link.jpg (29.9 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg 16 rear tie rod link.jpg (26.9 KB, 0 views)
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#7 Old 1 Week Ago
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Ebrake was not a lot of fun to take off. I'm sure it's even more fun to put back on...
The top spring can be gently eased off towards the back of the plate it is slotted through, then the adjustment star wheel and parts can be removed. Their are two spring clips holding the brake pads to the dust shield so removed those. Then twisted the brake pads out with the bottom, beefier, spring still in place. disconnect the cable mechanism from the pads and DONT loose the small connecting pin.
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File Type: jpg 20 E Brake.jpg (29.0 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg 21 E Brake.jpg (29.5 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg 23 E Brake.jpg (26.9 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg 24 E Brake.jpg (32.1 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg 25.jpg (27.4 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg 29 E Brake hardware.jpg (19.6 KB, 0 views)
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#8 Old 6 Days Ago
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I then disconnected the top two camber arms from the hub assembly and used a puller to pull the hub away from the drive axle.
That thrust arm up against the body doesn't look like it is coming out.... I'm not sure it is possible to get a wrench in there.
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File Type: jpg 30 All Apart.jpg (33.1 KB, 1 views)
File Type: jpg 32 Earthquake Country.jpg (25.1 KB, 0 views)
File Type: jpg 31 Thrust Arm not gonna happen.jpg (30.8 KB, 0 views)
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#9 Old 6 Days Ago
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FYI, you can find the proper spring compressor for $70 on Ebay.

https://www.ebay.com/itm/Telescopic-...72.m2749.l2649

I would also take a note of where your toe adjuster was at before you loosen it. That way you can get in the correct ballpark when you put it back on. Make sure when you put it back together that you load the suspension before you tighten the bushings or you will wreck them. I used a small bottle jack from harbor to do this.
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#10 Old 6 Days Ago
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Been there and done all this - got a 2004 SLK 200 last year and I have replaced all the discs, calipers, hoses, pads, then all the shocks, shock top mounts as well as every single control arm and linkage. As soon as this was done it got a four wheel alignment and new tyres (as well as the wheels refurbed).


Well worth the effort all round, the car rides great, and is as smooth on the highway as my brand new S213.
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#11 Old 6 Days Ago
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What I haven't removed yet are the shocks. I ordered a 17mm socket with the insert for the tab at the top of the shock. Should be here today.

Also, as I have the spindles/hub out, I'm going to check with the machine shop about replacing the hub bearings. The things are out of the car and in my hands, so I should do this now instead of hearing them begin grinding in about 15,000 miles...

I'm going to set the rear tires on wheel ramps to load up the suspension before crawling under to tighten everything up. And, then over for a four wheel alignment.
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#12 Old 5 Days Ago
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You can just use 2 wrenches on the top of the shocks. I used a 17mm for the bottom and crescent wrench for the top. Worked like a champ.
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