PSE removal question - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 10-21-2013
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PSE removal question

Have the PSE exposed. Trying to get the 4 wiring harnesses off. They are at each end of the PSE. How do you get them to release? Normally on these types of harnesses there is a part you squeeze to get the harness to release. Not having any luck finding the release on these

Also having same problem with the 3 vacuum hoses. Do they pull straight out? Twist to a certain point?

Thanks for the help
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#2 Old 10-21-2013
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Never mind on the how to remove...got it. Have pulled it apart. The two plug/pin areas (black and white plug on the same end) are corroded and have bugs and such in them. What is the best way to clean this area without doing damage. The plugs are also green with corrosion. Best way to clean those?

BTW the board itself is clean as it can be.
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#3 Old 10-21-2013
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Go to RadioShack and buy a bottle of electronic contact cleaner.
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#4 Old 10-21-2013
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Will do. Thank you
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#5 Old 10-22-2013
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Might want to get a fan or low power blow dryer to speed up the dry time if it's wet and not just dirty.
While you have it out I highly recommend lengthening the vac lines and flipping the pse upside down when you put it back in.
If you go this route make sure to label everything before cutting Almost made that overlook myself.
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#6 Old 10-22-2013
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Had planned on turning the PSE upside down. Need to look a little more into what is needed for the vacuum tubes. They are already marked, not just need to figure out what is needed to make them longer.

Thanks :-)
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#7 Old 10-23-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by DIYGirl View Post
Had planned on turning the PSE upside down. Need to look a little more into what is needed for the vacuum tubes. They are already marked, not just need to figure out what is needed to make them longer.

Thanks :-)
According to this thread, you need 1/4" inside diameter tube. Try a car accessories shop or maybe an aquatic supplies shop - they use tube about this size for tank aeration systems, I think.
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#8 Old 10-23-2013
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Thanks for the tubing requirement.

Unfortunately, Radio Shack is out of stock on the De-oxit (online and within a 50 mile radius) so I tried CCR electrical contact cleaner. Everything looks the same, does not look like it did anything in the way of cleaning. Oxidation is still there as well as the dirt and other water/dirt marks. Waiting for it to dry completely since the cleaner itself conducts electricity. Once dry, will plug it back in and see if it works well enough to wait for De-oxit to come in from Amazon.

I assume when you cut the vacuum tubes you just have to wedge the cut ends into the new tubing? Is any kind of sealer necessary?
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#9 Old 10-23-2013
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I haven't done the job myself, but if I had to do it, I'd use a silicone sealant. It works well for everything else I've used it for so, well, why not give it a try?
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#10 Old 10-24-2013
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I didn't use any sealant and haven't had any issues.
But it certainly cant hurt assuming it doesn't damage the tubing.
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#11 Old 10-28-2013
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My cleaning steps were as follows: (With correction to tubing size! I wrote the OD on accident on my previous thread.)

1. Get electrical contact cleaner; the cheapest generic brand is fine - Walmart carries it, Radioshack carries it for a bit more money, some gas stations carry it if you're lucky; but it should be really easy to find.

2. To clean the male end (with the pins) Hold it upside down, spray contact cleaner into it. It will evaporate very quickly; within 5 seconds. I used a toothpick, and an extremely thin cotton swab to scratch off gunk that was really fixated on there, and the cotton swab to clean up residue. Then, spray again with the cleaner, let it drip out and evaporate, and that was that. DO NOT use a lot of force in that area, the pins can break off easy if heavily corroded.

3. To clean the female end (harness end), I used the same contact cleaner, sprayed the harness, then stuck a sewing pin in each hole and scraped up and down to remove any gunk on the inside. Spray with contact cleaner again, then let it evaporate for a second.

4. Flipping the PSE upside down: Get 0.17" inner diameter tube (*I completely kept writing 1/4" ID without thinking twice; it was 1/4" Outer Diameter, 0.17" Inner Diameter. I apologize for that!)- Lowe's, Home depot, Autozone, O-reilly etc. carry this. It is cheap. I only used 2 ft. It's anywhere from 25cents to $1 a foot (depending on where you go.)

5. Cut however much you need (I used about 7" for each of the three vacuum hoses). The tubing should slide in easy, but very snug into the 0.17" inner diameter. I pushed it in about 1/2" on each end. Also; when you cut the vacuum hoses, cut with at least 3"-4" on the connecting side (don't splice it right by the connector, and not be able to insert the tubing into anything). And do it one at a time so there's no mix up. Then simply flip it upside down, reconnect everything, and stick it back in the foam box (it may fit a bit awkward, but it will fit). As for sealant, you won't honestly need it. It can't hurt, but it's not at all necessary. If you slide 1/2" of tubing into the 0.17" ID tube, nothing is going to happen or get into the hose unless you physically rip them out with a bit of force.

And that's all it takes. Nothing should cost more than $5, and it shouldn't take more than 15-20 minutes (and that's being careful).
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Last edited by LoveMeSomeSLK; 10-28-2013 at 01:02 AM. Reason: CORRECTION TO TUBING SIZE! I meant to say 1/4" OD, 0.17" ID!
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