Side window question - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 08-19-2013
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Side window question

Hello,

The left-hand side window on my '99 SLK gave a loud metallic clang when I rolled it up the other day. Since then, the window has become misaligned and no longer stops at the roof rubber lining. Instead it continues a little bit up and outside of the car. Thanks to Tolak's excellent instruction in the DIY section on how to remove the door panel and the window I have been able to remove the window. I also found a small L-shaped metallic plate lying loose in the bottom of the door.

It is obvious from marks on the window and on the plate that be plate was glued to the window bottom front and served as a stopper when rolling up the window. Presumably the clang occurred when the stopper came loose from the window.

My problem is that I don't know if the L-shaped plate was the only thing glued to the window. There are glue marks on both sides of the window but I have only found one plate so far. Does anyone know exactly what the arrangement on the window looks like? Am I missing a part or is it just the plate I already found? I could of course check by tearing down the other door but this is obviously not something I'd like to do unless I really have to.

Mercedes could not help me either. According to them, the L-shaped plate does not even exist as a product in their service system so they could not tell me how it is assembled. Apparently they expect you to buy a complete new window, presumably with the stopper already glued in place, rather than repairing broken ones. I don't want to do that either...

Any help on this would be much appreciated. I will post pictures later to follow up this thread in the hope that this will be useful to someone else.

Cheers,
Tom
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#2 Old 08-19-2013
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This is the rear window housing from my facelift 170. I can't imagine your windows being much different. Post your VIN and I'll take a look though. The L bracket looks like the sealing frame?

A1706700139 sealing frame left #20
A1706700239 sealing frame right #20
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#3 Old 08-19-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Tomato View Post
Hello,

The left-hand side window on my '99 SLK gave a loud metallic clang when I rolled it up the other day. Since then, the window has become misaligned and no longer stops at the roof rubber lining. Instead it continues a little bit up and outside of the car. Thanks to Tolak's excellent instruction in the DIY section on how to remove the door panel and the window I have been able to remove the window. I also found a small L-shaped metallic plate lying loose in the bottom of the door.

It is obvious from marks on the window and on the plate that be plate was glued to the window bottom front and served as a stopper when rolling up the window. Presumably the clang occurred when the stopper came loose from the window.

My problem is that I don't know if the L-shaped plate was the only thing glued to the window. There are glue marks on both sides of the window but I have only found one plate so far. Does anyone know exactly what the arrangement on the window looks like? Am I missing a part or is it just the plate I already found? I could of course check by tearing down the other door but this is obviously not something I'd like to do unless I really have to.

Mercedes could not help me either. According to them, the L-shaped plate does not even exist as a product in their service system so they could not tell me how it is assembled. Apparently they expect you to buy a complete new window, presumably with the stopper already glued in place, rather than repairing broken ones. I don't want to do that either...

Any help on this would be much appreciated. I will post pictures later to follow up this thread in the hope that this will be useful to someone else.

Cheers,
Tom
I don't remember the details; I would expect a plate on each side, and it will be shown by glue marks on the glass.
There are threads about gluing it back on, but (AFAIK) none have come back with longevity. (Even bad news would be good)
I didn't cover this part of the window mechanism, since I was lucky enough not to have this problem.
Anon.

Last edited by Tolak; 08-19-2013 at 02:44 PM. Reason: 1984
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#4 Old 08-19-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by slk320chick View Post
This is the rear window housing from my facelift 170. I can't imagine your windows being much different. Post your VIN and I'll take a look though. The L bracket looks like the sealing frame?

A1706700139 sealing frame left #20
A1706700239 sealing frame right #20
These numbers are for the rear window (ie on the three-quarter panel).
In the OP's case, the side window (ie on the door) is relevant.
Useful for thread searchers, though.
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#5 Old 08-19-2013
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Yes, Tolak is correct that this is about the big side window but thanks anyway slk320chick. Funny, how I suddenly find a lot on this topic after having posted my initial question and Tolak pointed out that the problem is not too uncommon. Apparently I have to work on my search skills... .

However, from what I have been able to find out there should actually be two L-shaped parts glued together and not just one. This fits with the glue marks on both sides of my window but sofar I have only been able to recover one plate from inside the door. Strange as I cannot understand where the missing part may have gone...

As Tolak also writes, people seem to agree that it will be difficult to glue the stoppers back even if I find the missing part. I will see if I can find the missing part first, otherwise I guess I have to give in and buy a new window.

P.S. I found the second part. It was sitting at the bottom of the door and I cannot understand that I missed it before. Apparently I have to work on my search skills... . I will at least make an attempt to glue it/have it glued back before I buy a new window. I post two pictures, one that shows the inside of the left door lining (the front is to the left and the rear is to the right) where all the clips are clearly visible. The other picture shows the front bottom corner of the left side window with the glue marks visible on both sides of the window and one of the loose L-shaped plates.
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#6 Old 08-19-2013
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Gluing end-stops

If you are careful with the gluing, you should be able to get the plates back in the same place, and so the adjustment near the front of the door will not need to be moved. (AFAIK, there is only one adjustment, on the inner door skin, so I don't know what the out-board plate stops against. The fact that yours has also come off would indicate that each side is load-bearing and functional).

But, having given the glue enough time to cure to full strength before reassembling, you may wish to check end-stop position before you start reassembly.

Thanks for your detailed attention.
Anon
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#7 Old 08-19-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Tomato View Post
I post two pictures, one that shows the inside of the left door lining (the front is to the left and the rear is to the right) where all the clips are clearly visible.
The picture of the door card shows the lower perimeter clips in place; two of these have the rubber washers, to reduce the fretting noise that plastic can give.
However, across the top there should be a long straight hard-board edge, and towards the front a plastic ramp that leads up to the door mirror corner. The plastic ramp also fits down to the cut-out in the door card, so the plastic can be clipped in place as well as glued.
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#8 Old 08-19-2013
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The two plates are actually both turned inward to support each other. See http://forums.mercedesclub.org.uk/sh...ad.php?t=71647 for a nice drawing. This is consistent with the glue marks on my plates.

Re the hardboard edge and the plastic ramp on top of the door lining, they remained fastened to the door as I removed the lining. However, I expect no problem with reassembling them.
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#9 Old 08-19-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dr Tomato View Post
Re the hardboard edge and the plastic ramp on top of the door lining, they remained fastened to the door as I removed the lining. However, I expect no problem with reassembling them.
No problem, true.
The screws do enough of a job to hold the card in place, so all the other attachments are for "completeness".
But the top edge, with these two, will benefit from good gluing.
So you might want to fit glue at teh last stage, and let them set in situ, and hence in the right place?
FYI,
Anon
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#10 Old 09-13-2013
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Final report

OK, so I have finally put everything back together. Here is a summary of my experience on this subject. Hopefully this will come useful to someone else.

Problem symptom:

A loud clang from the side window. The window no longer stops in the right position when raising it. Instead it continues outside the rubber lining of the roof, making it impossible to shut the door properly.

Root cause:

The side window has two L-formed metal parts glued to its lower front corner. Even though the parts are glued on opposite sides of the glass, they are both turned the same way (inward) to support each other. These metal parts serve as a stopper that prevents the window from raising above a certain point when they hit another L-shaped metal plate that is mounted on the inside of the door. The clang occurs when one or both window stoppers come loose from the glass and fall into the door.

How to repair:

Either buy a new side window (they are not terribly expensive) or try to glue the stoppers back on the old side window. In the first case you have to remove the window fully from the door.

See https://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-cla...trip-down.html.

In the second case, it could be sufficient to remove the door lining only and then remove the large loudspeaker in the door. When the window is in its bottommost position you can access the corner of the glass where the stoppers are supposed to be fastened through the loudspeaker hole. The stoppers themselves will be lying somewhere in the bottom of door since they can't go anywhere else. I did my repair by removing the glass and glueing the stoppers back outside but with hindsight it would have been much easier just to glue them back in situ. The problem with the in situ repair is that it may be hard to clean the glass properly before glueing, especially the outward side since it is somewhat hard to reach. It is easy to see where to attach the stoppers since their locations are apparent from residue of the original glue, a greenish stuff that can be sanded off the glass.

Before I sanded off the original glue, I used masking tape to indicate where to glue the stoppers back. As soon as the original glue is gone, there is otherwise no way to see where the stoppers should go. People have had a lot of trouble glueing these stoppers since they won't stick for long. I went for the best epoxy I could find, JB Weld, and was careful to follow the instructions as best as I could. However, I had the same problem as many others have had; after a couple of days, the metal pieces just fell off again. I believe it could have something to with that epoxy is quite brittle and not flexible enough for this application. I then heard of an adhesive tape from 3M called VHB (Very High Bonding?). Apparently it is used for all kinds of applications, such as glueing wings of airplanes, so I gave it a shot and this has worked so far. It is very easy to use: just clean the surfaces, cut the tape with a pair of scissors, attach the tape to the stopper, remove the protecting film from the other side of the tape, attach to the glass and press. Full strength after 24 hours.

Other experience:

While I was at it anyway, I also bought some 3M spray glue that I used to get the protective foil back inside the door (behind the door lining is a transparent plastic foil that protects the door insides from water). The foil inside my door was damaged, probably from earlier repairs, so I just bought a new one from Mercedes for a couple of dollars and attached it using the spray glue. This particular spray glue works like stickies and allows you to remove the foil later without ruining it. 3M is really a great company (I am not affiliated with them but I love their products)

Inside the door there are actually two travel stops, one forward and one rear. The forward one is the aforementioned one, which prevents the forward lower corner of the window to travel past it. The rear one is similar, also L-shaped. Both travel stops can be adjusted vertically so that the window stops in the precisely right position, against the rubber lining of the roof. Adjust the stops by loosening a nut and moving the stops up or down to the right position. Beware: if you loosen the nut to much, the L-shaped part inside will fall off into the door. It can be tricky to get back. The rear one can be reattached by inserting your hand inside the door from below (if you are not too ham-fisted). To get the front one back, I had to pull it up inside the door using a sewing thread, which was a little tricky. Another caveat is that the part is top-heavy. Even if you don't loosen the nut enough for the travel stop to fall out, it may still become so loose that it rotates around its axis and ends up in an incorrect position. This happened to me and I just could not understand why the window didn't stop as expected or where the scraping sound came from… So ensure that the door's travel stop is properly aligned before you tighten the nut! This can be done by simply reaching with your hand inside the door from below. See the attached picture for an illustration of the forward stoppers.
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#11 Old 09-13-2013
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Excellent write up. Thanks.






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#12 Old 09-13-2013
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Excellent write-up.
I have linked to this from the end of the door strip-down thread, since you have covered so much that was missing from that thread.
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#13 Old 06-22-2017
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Thanks
Got that wonderful clang yesterday and was at a loss as to why the window didn't stop in the right place.
Now I know and have the solution too.

Invaluable help. Cheers
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#14 Old 06-22-2017
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Glad you got it resolved

fyi, thread is 4 years old

use the 'quote' button at the bottom of any post you wish to reply to or reference so we know who you are 'talkin' to


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