:gh: HELP PLEASE :gh: - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

SLK R170 General Discussion SLK 200, SLK 230K, SLK 320, SLK32 AMG

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#1 Old 08-07-2013
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:gh: HELP PLEASE :gh:

Ok guys and gals,
My little blue demon is driving me crazy. oh it is a 1998 slk230
It start about two months ago from running like a top to $hit... no power.
I have changed, long list:
fuel filter, spark plugs, plug wire, air filter, oil, upstream and downstream o2 senors, oil separator and all its hoses ,some valve things off the compressor 0021405560 and 0021406860, the k40 block, new intercooler , cleaned mass air sensor, POSITION SENDER UNIT TO CYLINDER CRANKCASE, THROTTLE PEDAL ACCELERATOR POSITION SENSOR, and all kinds of other crap. This car was hated by it owner before me, and he or she should be beaten with a fan belt.
Anyway the compressor stopped working when this all started, tested the clutch , works fine, but doesnít engage at 2500rpms. if I get on the throttle any the car just blogs down rps are steady just no power. the car will reach highway speeds but I not going to be able to pass anyone.
please please help Iíve put to much time in to it to just let it set and waste away.
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#2 Old 08-07-2013
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Sorry to hear about your trouble. Sounds like you spent a fortune on these new parts... Let's wait for Anon. He might have a better clue.
Until then my suggestion is to go to some good indy with Stardiag so he can read codes for you and perhaps you'll find the problem.
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#3 Old 08-07-2013
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Even the local auto parts store should be able to give you a free readout and maybe you can go from there? I am not the loss of power google girl.. im afraid I cannot assist. But I feel your pain.. I like that you called her the blue demon. They are infact testy at times


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#4 Old 08-07-2013
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Originally Posted by offdepp View Post

Ok guys and gals,
My little blue demon is driving me crazy. oh it is a 1998 slk230
It start about two months ago from running like a top to ... no power.
I have changed, long list:
fuel filter, spark plugs, plug wire, air filter, oil, upstream and downstream o2 senors, oil separator and all its hoses ,some valve things off the compressor 0021405560 and 0021406860, the k40 block, new intercooler , cleaned mass air sensor, POSITION SENDER UNIT TO CYLINDER CRANKCASE, THROTTLE PEDAL ACCELERATOR POSITION SENSOR, and all kinds of other crap. This car was hated by it owner before me, and he or she should be beaten with a fan belt.

Anyway the compressor stopped working when this all started, tested the clutch , works fine, but doesnít engage at 2500rpms. if I get on the throttle any the car just blogs down rps are steady just no power. the car will reach highway speeds but I not going to be able to pass anyone.

please please help Iíve put to much time in to it to just let it set and waste away.

I'm sorry to hear of your bad fortune on this.

I hope that my response does not come across as a lecture, but it's difficult to write it in a way that comes across any other way.

I have seen these kind of "troubleshooting" approaches many, MANY times. Buying lots of parts to see if they fix the problem gets expen$ive FAST. with the exception of freshening up expendable, maintenance type items such as spark plugs, filters and other items, this is often a costly approach that could be prevented by simply taking it to a competent tech.

Most shops will charge an hour or so of labor as a diagnostic fee. In most cases they can point straight to the source of the problem. There are always a few stubborn or intermittent problems that can stump them, but more often than not they can home right in on it.

For those willing to operate this way, you can even find out what the problem is and go replace the part(s) yourself although some shops will resist this.

I would like to help with your specific problem, but it has a very broad symptom. Even at this stage of your efforts, it would be advisable to take it to a sharp troubleshooter, preferably one familiar with the breed.

Sorry if this came across wrong and I hope,it helps.
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#5 Old 08-09-2013
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Thank you for your input and yes i agree buying parts like this can be silly, but my little demon has 98,000 miles on it and i want to keep it so it's not a bad purchase. I honestly don't know of any indy here (that i can trust). i did pull the codes and that was the two o2 sensors.

please do not give up on me give me all the input you can. this little blue demon is a toy and as we all know fun as hell to drive< when they get up and move>

again thank you
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#6 Old 08-09-2013
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Have the Cat Converter checked out it may be blocked or unservicable.

[SIGPIC]Old but not broken!!
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#7 Old 08-13-2013
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Boost problems; check Kompressor

Lots of valid points above.
There is a long thread here that I have been involved in that has chased down many bits, and it includes a simple test of the function of teh Kompressor and the regulating valve. With these, you can test it without taking it out of the shop, which is convenient.
However, it sounds like your Kompresor is not working, since you have checked the clutch already.
So the big hitter that does not produce a code is the K40 module; it is possible that the unit you had fitted was not a good one, and so has not corrected the faults.
Remove the K40, and check all the soldered joints on the PCB are in good state. Note that even careful inspection may not find all of them, so re-doing the soldered joints is a good technique. (In a way, you have a better issue than Fabio on that thread, since your boost never works, so you have a hard failure. His works when cold, but once hot fails reliably, so he has to debug when hot... ) My car had same as yours; ran ok but would not overtake, and the SC did not engage. Solder on the top left three joints resolved my issue.
Let's start there, and then chase other functions that might contribute to other issues.
Anon

Edit: Sensors , when they fail, cause a code, and typically cause a light. If you have not been getting a light, then you do not have a sensor fault, so don't let anyone make you buy another sensor.
This is not in the low power stage of the controller, where the built-in test (BIT) detects a broken actuator, but is in the high power stage beyond the relays, where the BIT does not look. This is relay country, and especially K40.
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#8 Old 08-14-2013
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i won't have time until sunday to re-solder the joints, but thanks so much
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