Advice on a few MOT fail issues - Page 2 - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

SLK R170 General Discussion SLK 200, SLK 230K, SLK 320, SLK32 AMG

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#21 Old 1 Week Ago
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Hi again,

I simply do not understand one or two of the past few posts above, what is all that trying to achieve here, do the bare minimum to scrape through an MOT Test ???????????

Do the work correctly and avoid constant re visits of the same bodged faults !!

The OP Jody is taking the earlier and good advice from all on board and looking to do the job properly

At 17% there is clearly a problem with that Handbrake, as with all of them when they have not had recent maintenance. A badly adjusted one with decent Shoes will make 20% !!

My advice way back is given based upon what I see with MB's especially the pesky Parking Brakes on a daily basis, (they are all the same), also we have Salty Environment too being pretty much surrounded by Seawater Lochs.

Strip, Clean, Inspect, Check, Replace and Adjust as needed

The Single Seat Relay outputs 2 separate Feeds for the Left and Right Seats and develops dry Solder joints, which is what @M4rCu5 was eluding to.

Finally, I agree with @Mike6F it doesn't strike me as odd at all that a decent Workshop would charge more for Quality Repairs with a decent Guarantee .............

Decent Workshops use Quality Parts and do a good thorough job, we don't quibble if a Customer phones and says there may be a problem, etc etc ..........
Therefore they have to charge more, I do, it is simple Business economics.

If you use the local "cable tie and insulating tape yee ha cowboy" to save a few sheckles expect to get your Car ruined, we all see these tales of woe here all the time, pay peanuts get monkeys !!

Cheap is never Cheap in the long run

HTH, Cheers Dave
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#22 Old 1 Week Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave2302 View Post

The Single Seat Relay outputs 2 separate Feeds for the Left and Right Seats and develops dry Solder joints, which is what M4rCu5 was alluding to.
Ta

Exactly that ^^ and it's just the one instance.
For a garage to fix that (and it has to be done), they'll use a new OEM relay at circa 40 - these are not cheap relays - and at least 1hr of their time to strip the lower dash, locate, replace, test and reassemble. You're talking ball park figure of 100 easy just to fix the seat movement issue


EDIT:
Alternatively, fix it yourself using the info supplied in JaysonM's excellent "How To"
or
Borrow a manual seat from another car to get you through the MOT yee haa!
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#23 Old 6 Days Ago
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Originally Posted by Terminal View Post
Before you start pulling the brakes apart, find a suitable safe place to drive, and then use just the hand brake to stop the car. They are very small shoes, so don't give much stopping power at the best of times (and of course your brake lights wont illuminate), but with a bit of persistence, there's a good chance you'll clean them up enough to restore acceptable balance to pass MOT. It's very unlikely the friction material has eroded away, but very likely due to corrosion, one side has become lazy. I've done this on many cars with about an 80% success rate.
My winter car (406 Coupe) model suffers from similar problems & one MOT tester advised Me that Automatic cars suffer from similar "lazy" hand brakes, due to a lack of use....
...and the cure was to give them a bit of exercise as @Terminal advises:

But @Dave2302 is correct that the long term fix is proper maintenance, then adjustment, which owners of low value cars may not have carried out in the past....

Though finding a reliable garage that give good honest service is not a easy task...
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#24 Old 6 Days Ago
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Originally Posted by Dave2302 View Post
Hi again,

I simply do not understand one or two of the past few posts above, what is all that trying to achieve here, do the bare minimum to scrape through an MOT Test ???????????

Do the work correctly and avoid constant re visits of the same bodged faults !!

The OP Jody is taking the earlier and good advice from all on board and looking to do the job properly

At 17% there is clearly a problem with that Handbrake, as with all of them when they have not had recent maintenance. A badly adjusted one with decent Shoes will make 20% !!

My advice way back is given based upon what I see with MB's especially the pesky Parking Brakes on a daily basis, (they are all the same), also we have Salty Environment too being pretty much surrounded by Seawater Lochs.

Strip, Clean, Inspect, Check, Replace and Adjust as needed

The Single Seat Relay outputs 2 separate Feeds for the Left and Right Seats and develops dry Solder joints, which is what @M4rCu5 was eluding to.

Finally, I agree with @Mike6F it doesn't strike me as odd at all that a decent Workshop would charge more for Quality Repairs with a decent Guarantee .............

Decent Workshops use Quality Parts and do a good thorough job, we don't quibble if a Customer phones and says there may be a problem, etc etc ..........
Therefore they have to charge more, I do, it is simple Business economics.

If you use the local "cable tie and insulating tape yee ha cowboy" to save a few sheckles expect to get your Car ruined, we all see these tales of woe here all the time, pay peanuts get monkeys !!

Cheap is never Cheap in the long run

HTH, Cheers Dave

Dave,

I think you misunderstood what Mike6F said... He is surprised that Jody's shop wants to charge her what is approaching the value of her car...

My advice on the handbrake is from practical experience with many automatic cars where the parking brake is barely used. She has probably a few days to get a free re-test and limited time to carry out extensive DIY work. My suggestions were remedies exactly proposed to get her through a re-test, allowing for a more thorough investigation as time and funds permit. Equally, to pass an MOT the seat only has to move back and forth and lock, so if by toggling the switch to achieve that, again she can do a comprehensive investigation and remedy at her leisure. Not everyone sees minor problems at first sight through the eyes of a professional and methodical mechanic, such as you - nor has the time or funds for utilising this same luxury. Maybe you disagree, but personally I do not consider a a lazy parking brake on an automatic car, or a reluctant seat as major safety issues which should put her car off the road.
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#25 Old 6 Days Ago
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Hi,

I honestly don't think I have misunderstood anything in this thread.

I simply try to share my many years of accrued knowledge however, like everyone I can and have been wrong in the past, will be in the future, and I will promptly admit it if / when I am ...........

I merely try to lead horses to water, the rest is well out of my remit

I tend to agree with you re the Seat Adjustment issue, not so with the Parking Brake ...............

VOSA however would strongly disagree with you.

Some may say that lack of Seat Adjustment could encourage a different Driver to drive the car without being in full control ...................

Re Parking / Hand Brakes and Auto's ..............

I was once desperate for a 'P' one night, so I swung into a slightly downhill layby / viewpoint locally in an Auto Mercedes V Class, yanked on the handbrake, thought i'd engaged PARK, but it was only in Neutral, and as I jumped out and undid my zipper I watched it roll towards the edge of a cliff with Mel asleep in the Passenger Seat .................

Thankfully a Tree Stump caught a lower Suspension arm and the Minibus stopped dead .........................

So despite the fact that last time I checked, VOSA will accept 16%, I will never agree that 17% on a critical safety item like a Parking Brake is "Good Enough"

Cheers Dave
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#26 Old 6 Days Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave2302 View Post
I was once desperate for a 'P' one night, so I swung into a slightly downhill layby / viewpoint locally in an Auto Mercedes V Class, yanked on the handbrake, thought i'd engaged PARK, but it was only in Neutral, and as I jumped out and undid my zipper I watched it roll towards the edge of a cliff with Mel asleep in the Passenger Seat .................
I have a vision in my head now that I canna erase
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#27 Old 6 Days Ago
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Hello.

Ok, I should explain a few things.

First its a He

Second of all, I just need to get the car through the MOT, I have just returned from the South of France after spending a year there, so I just want to get the car legally on the road so I can then do all the work correctly.

So I have been doing some investigation, The first major problem I have hit is the headlights. I removed the top headlight bulb to find it was a HID, further investigation shows that there is a HiD kit installed so I am not sure what my options are (See attached photos). So it seems no matter what I do with the rest of the car, it's going to fail on this as I can't just fit a normal H7 bulb in there. Do I need to buy some new headlight units that support HiD?
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#28 Old 6 Days Ago
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Hi,

I wasn't aware that there was a problem with your Headlamps ????????????

Either fix the Xenon's issue or refit H7 Bulbs and re wire the Dipped Beam wire by removing the HID Ballasts, the +ve feed to them will be your Dip Beam circuit from the Car

As for whether to try and scrape stuff through a test, I'm done on the logic of all that malarky, do it right do it once

HTH, Cheers Dave
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#29 Old 6 Days Ago
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I need to refit the H7's as I would have to buy a whole new headlamp set which is 300+

I understand your point of doing it correctly once. But I have been back in the UK for a week and I am staying in a hotel room trying to get all this **** sorted out. I technically shouldn't have the car in the car park and I am not in a position to start dismantling the car until I secure a house with a drive and I can do it correctly. Sometimes there is a situation when you need to do 10% so you can then be legal to do the 90% correctly.

To see the full list of issues, its all detailed in my top post. At this point, I am tempted to flog the car as if I can't MOT it in the next week or two then I have some other issues to face. I only got the car a year ago for 1000 and it's driven all across Europe fantastically and the engine is still smooth as silk but seeing Webuyanycar are offering 760 without MOT, I am starting to think about buying a newer model. Shame really.
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#30 Old 6 Days Ago
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OK, so I can understand the issue, however I did thoroughly read the OP and then gave a comprehensive reply to it.

Nowhere did I see headlamp mentioned, nor hotel car parks etc.

Final bit of advice is WBAC will come and view / assess the Car and then they will not offer you anything like 760, that is just a figure to get you on the hook !!

HTH, Cheers Dave
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#31 Old 6 Days Ago
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Do we not have any local members/garages that can assist?
Even if just a place to park and do the work.

I don't know the area well.
I know the two Martins aren't local, but may have a better idea of who/where to ask.

@MartinatMersea
@savcom

@Trev5 Do you know the area at all?

I think we can settle on the OP currently needing the quick fix route due to circumstances.
The thorough/proper route can then be addressed at OP's leisure.

WBAC are quoting the highest price likely to be given.
On viewing they adjust for condition.
Interior (such as duff seat), Exterior (paint and dings), Tyres
will all be excuses for dropping the price.

Part ex may be an option, but you never truly know what you've bought until you've had time in it.
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#32 Old 6 Days Ago
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Yes, and I am working through that detailed list.

I have removed the relay and I am soldering it. I hope it's just not the motor as there is no life at all from the seat.

I have adjusted the play on the front wheel, it seems to be better.

I have cleaned and tightened the handbrake on the left side where it was very slack. I just need to improve the difference but I will replace the whole thing if I get that far.

I didn't think it was necessary to give my life story mate, I was just explaining why I needed to get it through the MOT rather than take my time and do it all correctly.

I didn't mention the headlights because I thought it was just a bulb change. I came back to the post to gain more advice about how to refit the bulbs as I didn't know what to do and any research came up a blank.

Yes, I understand that WBAC will screw me over but what do I do? I am trying as hard as I can to get it through the MOT so I can then take my time to give the car the attention it deserves.
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#33 Old 6 Days Ago
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If I get these - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...5RGNK6460GGG7X I should be able to bypass the xenon kit and just rewire them back in. I don't really care about keeping the kit at this point.
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Hi Jody,

Well I am glad we have the full relevant fact's now, and yeah, don't need life story, but I did not give it a thought that you may not have anywhere to actually do the work

Anyways, have you managed to work out the Connection that goes to the HID Ballast which is your Dip beam circuit, if so run that one to the H7 Dip Bulb, and earth the other Bulb Teminal, that will get the light going.

It may be an idea to use H7's in bothe Headlamps even if there is only one Bulb out, no potential for issues of mismatch at test time

HTH, and really would love to see you get sorted and then bring your car back to it's former glory and enjoy it again next summer.

Cheers Dave
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Jody View Post
If I get these - https://www.amazon.co.uk/gp/product/...5RGNK6460GGG7X I should be able to bypass the xenon kit and just rewire them back in. I don't really care about keeping the kit at this point.
If it is just the (expensive) D2S HID Bulb you need I'll post you one for free, I have loads of them good used kicking around the workshop as I always change them in pairs for my customers with newer MB's

Yes those connectors will work, that is what I was trying to explain in above post
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave2302 View Post
Hi Jody,

Well I am glad we have the full relevant fact's now, and yeah, don't need life story, but I did not give it a thought that you may not have anywhere to actually do the work

Anyways, have you managed to work out the Connection that goes to the HID Ballast which is your Dip beam circuit, if so run that one to the H7 Dip Bulb, and earth the other Bulb Teminal, that will get the light going.

It may be an idea to use H7's in bothe Headlamps even if there is only one Bulb out, no potential for issues of mismatch at test time

HTH, and really would love to see you get sorted and then bring your car back to it's former glory and enjoy it again next summer.

Cheers Dave
I am going to strip the kit out and see. The lower of the bulbs is a normal H7 bulb and connector, it's only the upper one is running off the HiD kit. It looks like a hack job by the construction quality .

I do too, it is still a beautiful car to drive, its just some annoying issues.
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Originally Posted by Dave2302 View Post
If it is just the (expensive) D2S HID Bulb you need I'll post you one for free, I have loads of them good used kicking around the workshop as I always change them in pairs for my customers with newer MB's

Yes those connectors will work, that is what I was trying to explain in the above post
Thank you but I don't think it the bulb. The failure was Headlight source and lamp not compatible (Aftermarket HiD lamp fitted). Which seems to be that the kit has been fitted in the original headlights. So unless I missing something I need to refit the H7 connector in the top bulb slot and put an original bulb in. I have the bulbs, I just need a connector wiring.

I will order them now and try wire them back in.
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I just spoke to the garage to book the free retest on Friday (just in case) and they really are a bunch of *****. They seemed surprised and a little hostile that I had done all the repairs myself so far so I am half expecting another fail even if I fix everything
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The failure was Headlight source and lamp not compatible (Aftermarket HiD lamp fitted).

WOW!
IMO that's desperately unlucky of you to have fallen foul of current regulation Jody.

I had to look that one up and found it - HERE -

4.1.4. Compliance with requirements

Quote:
Existing halogen headlamp units should not be converted to be used with HID bulbs. If such a conversion has been done, you must fail the headlamp.

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WOW!
IMO that's desperately unlucky of you to have fallen foul of current regulation Jody.

I had to look that one up and found it - HERE -

4.1.4. Compliance with requirements




It seems I have been unlucky on a few fronts but... THE SEAT NOW WORKS!
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