roof/abs walkaround disable - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

SLK R170 General Discussion SLK 200, SLK 230K, SLK 320, SLK32 AMG

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#1 Old 3 Weeks Ago
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roof/abs walkaround disable

Hello again peps.

Wonder if there is any walkaround or something to make roof go up and down if i have a problem with abs system?

roof should not work when car is moving faster then a spcial speed or if abs system is faulty.

Is it possible to make som changes somewere to bypass this thing?

My wifi want to drive rest of the summer using the cab and when autuum comes ill put the car in garage and try to solve the abs system.

I know its not the best way to go around a problem with brakes.

Please help me with this.

Best regards Thomas
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#2 Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Inkow i can open it and close it manualy but wonder if i can use the auto.
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#3 Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Will not get around the abs issue, but roof open/close whilst moving see
https://www.slkworld.com/general-dis...ing-about.html
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#4 Old 3 Weeks Ago
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i like that one alot.. nice a smooth thing.

Going to get it asap... but still thinking if this is even possible...

working nighttime 12h shifts.. and have no spare time at all to make my wifi happy with her car...
gonna fix this in about 8 weeks.. but now i need to take the roof down auto with still the abs error still there.
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#5 Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Hi,

Just an observation, and no offence whatsoever intended, but ...............

IMHO you will spend more time messing around trying to botch up a bypass, (workaround), possibly screwing something else up in the process, than if you just read the ABS on a decent and appropriate diagnostic machine and then spend an hour or 2 fixing the actual issue, which is likely an ABS Sensor or maybe its Reluctor on one corner

HTH, Cheers Dave
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#6 Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave2302 View Post
Hi,

Just an observation, and no offence whatsoever intended, but ...............

IMHO you will spend more time messing around trying to botch up a bypass, (workaround), possibly screwing something else up in the process, than if you just read the ABS on a decent and appropriate diagnostic machine and then spend an hour or 2 fixing the actual issue, which is likely an ABS Sensor or maybe its Reluctor on one corner <img src="https://www.slkworld.com/images/SLKWorld_2014/smilies/tango_face_wink.png" border="0" alt="" title="Wink" class="inlineimg" />

HTH, Cheers Dave
Yo mate. Absolutely.

More just Wonder if there were some simple workaround..

I Wonder if icarsoft Reader works. We have a seller here in Sweden.
Need to read esp error codes.
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#7 Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charmed View Post

I Wonder if icarsoft Reader works. We have a seller here in Sweden.
You could be struggling with a '97, AFAIK they are all OBD1 38pin and the vast majority of 'affordable' scanners are geared for OBD2 16pin as found on the post-facelift MY2K onwards, even then there are shortcomings .. it might be easier to take the car into MB and get them to read it.

You could also start a new thread asking what the guys with pre-facelifts use for scanners
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#8 Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Hi,

A local garage with Snap On, Bosch, Autel, Delphi etc, or something waaaaaay more expensive like Autologic or Bosch KTS should be able to read ABS / ESP system but they will not be able to read VR tho.

I'd want to read both systems, just to be certain there isn't a separate fault in the VR like a Micro Switch etc ......................

It could be said that you should fix the ABS / ESP system first, and then move on to the VR if it still doesn't work, but that may just be that the VR will need a CAN Comm error from ABS / ESP resetting, I am not convinced that VR (like some other Modules), will actually reset itself just because a fault is fixed

Of Course, SDS is the daddy It and will definitely get everything in one go which certainly makes the whole process less painful in the long run

HTH, Cheers Dave
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#9 Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Sooo my wifi went to the mb dealer yesterday.
Found broken abs sensor on right wheel back.
Buying a new one to se if it works.
Nothing else in error codes.
Pricetag 70$ for reading codes, try to erase them (but no).
Lifted the car up and spinn the wheel and no respons from sensor.
Showed my wifi were it was locaded and how to change it.
All that for 70$ i think is pretty cheap.

Now order one new sensor and will change it. Go back to erase codes.
Hopefuly it will work.

Thx all here in forum for help.
Best regards Thomas.
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#10 Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charmed View Post
Sooo my wifi went to the mb dealer yesterday.
Found broken abs sensor on right wheel back.
Buying a new one to se if it works.
Nothing else in error codes.
Pricetag 70$ for reading codes, try to erase them (but no).
Lifted the car up and spinn the wheel and no respons from sensor.
Showed my wifi were it was locaded and how to change it.
All that for 70$ i think is pretty cheap.

Now order one new sensor and will change it. Go back to erase codes.
Hopefuly it will work.

Thx all here in forum for help.
Best regards Thomas.
You might find that that's just a broken wire. Take the wheel off, follow the wire to the rubber bung and pull that to reveal the connector inside the chassis. Water tends to seep in and rots the wires especially on the nearside (your right side).
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#11 Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M4rCu5 View Post
You might find that that's just a broken wire. Take the wheel off, follow the wire to the rubber bung and pull that to reveal the connector inside the chassis. Water tends to seep in and rots the wires especially on the nearside (your right side).
Ahh ok. ill check if the wire is broken.

is it hard to get to the wires under the hood? to check if the wire is broken somewere else?

To meassure the whole way?

Guess its a huge harnest of wires.

Thx for the advice
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#12 Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Charmed View Post
Ahh ok. ill check if the wire is broken.

is it hard to get to the wires under the hood? to check if the wire is broken somewere else?

To meassure the whole way?

Guess its a huge harnest of wires.

Thx for the advice
I can't advise on that because I've only ever known them to break in that one place so have never needed to trace. N/S Rear is the one that tends to catch all the crap from the side of the road, water and silt seeps in past the rubber, into the connector and wires corrode. I did post a couple of pics on here somewhere..


Edit.
https://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-ge...bas-esp-3.html

Post #51 is what I'm referring to
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#13 Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by M4rCu5 View Post
I can't advise on that because I've only ever known them to break in that one place so have never needed to trace. N/S Rear is the one that tends to catch all the crap from the side of the road, water and silt seeps in past the rubber, into the connector and wires corrode. I did post a couple of pics on here somewhere..


Edit.
https://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-ge...bas-esp-3.html

Post #51 is what I'm referring to
Huge thx for the link to page.

Im going to take a look.

I guess that the cable that runs all the way thru the car is not broken... its most likley the contact.

Will see soon.... now at work ... realy want to check it..

Thx again.
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#14 Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Originally Posted by Charmed View Post
Huge thx for the link to page.

Im going to take a look.

I guess that the cable that runs all the way thru the car is not broken... its most likley the contact.

Will see soon.... now at work ... realy want to check it..

Thx again.
I'm not saying it is that but it'll save you 400 - 500 Crowns or whatever the sensors are over there if it is, it's worth checking before you order a new one
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#15 Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Hi,

I do stuff like this day in / day out.

In my experience of this sort of problem, yes it is usually broken close to a connector, if each end looks good it could be somewhere along the loom, at which point I would be looking for signs of chafing on the outer loom covering, or stress points such as a very tight bend in the loom, before resorting to pulling the whole loom and un wrapping it

HTH, Cheers Dave
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#16 Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave2302 View Post
Hi,

I do stuff like this day in / day out.

In my experience of this sort of problem, yes it is usually broken close to a connector, if each end looks good it could be somewhere along the loom, at which point I would be looking for signs of chafing on the outer loom covering, or stress points such as a very tight bend in the loom, before resorting to pulling the whole loom and un wrapping it

HTH, Cheers Dave
Yes... buy wonder if its possible to check with a meter that the cable is not broken ... just wonder were the like 8 cables are lokated in the motor bay..
if non of the wires are broken i can go from there... ofcourse check the contacts first and even change the sensor in next step. if thats not working i need to look if some cable is broken along the way.

Then i can measure frn the contact at the sensor and on the other end . just wanted to know were i can find the other end .. and if its 4 sensors it must be 8 cables.. or 5 if they have the same ground.

Next thing, is it possible to check a sensor if its broken ? like measure on it while spinning the wheel?

Best regards Thomas
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