170 roof not going down, red switch no lamp - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 07-08-2019
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170 roof not going down, red switch no lamp

Hello friends,

slk 230 roof decided to not go down. Red roof switch is not lighting up in opening mode, no sounds from the roof at all, except when switch is in closing phase, than the light illuminates the switch and i can hear pump working. Hydraulics are fine, no leaks, fluid is at fill level, micro switch on the curtain on the trunk right side is working so is the roof relay located at the pump.

Has anybody experienced this issue.

Thank you.
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#2 Old 07-08-2019
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Originally Posted by alido pavan View Post
Hello friends,

slk 230 roof decided to not go down. Red roof switch is not lighting up in opening mode, no sounds from the roof at all, except when switch is in closing phase, than the light illuminates the switch and i can hear pump working. Hydraulics are fine, no leaks, fluid is at fill level, micro switch on the curtain on the trunk right side is working so is the roof relay located at the pump.

Has anybody experienced this issue.

Thank you.
Hi
Q. Is there any lights on on the dashboard - ABS, BAS, ESP?
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#3 Old 07-08-2019
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Starting point https://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-ge...ostic-aid.html

Have you checked fuses?
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#4 Old 07-08-2019
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My theory is the red switch is broken. You can ground pin 28 on your CCM/MFCU (White/Violet wire) to test my theory - if the roof opens, then yes, the switch is broken. If your symptom persists, then my theory is wrong!
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#5 Old 07-09-2019
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Further to efairs' comment - THIS - may help
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#6 Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Hello,

I replaced the Vario roof switch thinking that the vario switch was the cause of roof stuck closed it did not fix the problem, switch flashes upon ignition for a few seconds, light and pump is running when pressing button to close roof, but when I pull switch back roof will not open, no sound, no light nothing, if I ground pin 28 to ccm/mfcu roof opens, and I can close it normally with the Vario switch, all switches test ok with voltmeter i get a 00.0 ground read all but switches s69/11 and s69/12 they read 12.65v, trunk light works, I checked s69/12 tumbler and latch micro switch they are clicking...

Hopefully someone may have had the same problem and may give me some insights.

Thank guys.

::alido pavan
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#7 Old 2 Weeks Ago
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I have no first hand experience, but I would next check the wire between the red switch and pin 28. This wire doesn't often fail - it does not flex. Did you test your old switch at all?
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#8 Old 2 Weeks Ago
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I bought an SLK230 last week. When I first went to see it the same thing happened. He called me back less than an hour later. The problem was, he said, that the cover in the boot (or trunk as you would probably call it) was not pulled back. Once it was pulled back the roof worked fine.
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#9 Old 2 Weeks Ago
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As always, excellent feedback and great help. Have a great day.

Thank you,
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#10 Old 2 Weeks Ago
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BTW - here is some additional information to test your old switch. Technically, your switch is a "single pole, double throw momentary contact with center-off". Translated, the switch has a common pole, pin 4, which should be connected to either pin 5 or pin 7 if you push or pull on the switch (i.e. 0 ohms resistance). If you release the switch, pin 4 should not not connected to either (infinite or OL resistance).



In situ, pin 4 should be connected to ground, pin 5 and 7 should be connected to the MFCU pins 28 and 29, respectively.



Pins 1 and 2 are for the bulb inside the switch; I'm not sure what pin 3 does (it is connected to the interior wiring).
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#11 Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Amazing.

Great help,
I am going to check
old switch later on today.

Thank you again for your time and generosity.

::a
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#12 Old 2 Weeks Ago
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efair,
Sorry to enlist your help again, I did not test the old switch but
I tested the new one, and switch is fine, as I mention early if I ground
pin 28 roof opens, I can close the roof with the vario switch, or by ground pin 29,
I looked at the wires under the console and they look okay, is there a way to trace them
to them n10-3. Am I thinking correctly to assume that if the roof opens
by ground pin 28 that the problem is with the switch and or wiring
leading to the n10-3 and not with the various microswitches.

Thanks,
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#13 Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Hi,

So what happens if you ground the "switch end" of the pin 28 wire ?

If it doesn't work, bad wire / connector between the 2 parts

If it does work, bad switch

HTH, cheers Dave
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#14 Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alido pavan View Post
Am I thinking correctly to assume that if the roof opens
by ground pin 28 that the problem is with the switch and or wiring
leading to the n10-3 and not with the various microswitches
Yes, that is my thinking.
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#15 Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Hi David,

Smart thinking, I am going to have a go
later this afternoon.

Thank you for your help.

::a
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#16 Old 2 Weeks Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alido pavan View Post
Hi David,

Smart thinking, I am going to have a go
later this afternoon.

Thank you for your help.

::a

You still havn't answered my question from post #2

Quote:
Originally Posted by M4rCu5 View Post
Hi
Q. Is there any lights on on the dashboard - ABS, BAS, ESP?
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#17 Old 2 Weeks Ago
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I apologize, error on my part,

No bas, Bes, Esp, lights on the dash.

Thank you again for your help.

::alido pavan
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#18 Old 1 Week Ago
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Quote:
Originally Posted by alido pavan View Post
I apologize, error on my part,

No bas, Bes, Esp, lights on the dash.

Thank you again for your help.

::alido pavan
Any update on this?
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#19 Old 6 Days Ago
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Hello,

and thank you for your response,
I finally got the time to check the switch and wire situation,
switch tests ok, wire is not ok, when i ground wire anywhere from switch to pin 28 roof will not open,
but when I ground pin 28 at the N10-3 roof opens perfectly (and closes when activating the red switch)

Wire from switch leading to pin 28 looks ok, I checked the wiring harness connecting to the switch and it looks fine too.....all wires on pigtail look fine....

Thank again for your feedback.

::alido pavan
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#20 Old 6 Days Ago
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It sounds like you've tested it properly - how exactly did you "ground all along the wire"? With an insulation-piercing probe? I would suspect the connector at the MFCU since this is often disconnected for other reasons.
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