Removing boot liner with a damaged boot (trunk) lid - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 1 Week Ago
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Removing boot liner with a damaged boot (trunk) lid

Further to my rear end shunt the car has been written off Its even been given a CAT S which in the UK means that it is legally repairable but has suffered structural damage
Damage looks very minimal to me and should easily be pulled out.





Anyway the question is that since the boot can't be shut, boot catch is 2" further in than the lock itself, how do I remove the plastic boot/trunk liner panels as the roof needs to be partially raised so the arms on the boot lid line up with the side panel slots. I guess I need to remove the trunk lid completely which needs replaced anyway then find someway of fooling the system that the boot is closed (switch in the boot lid lock??) or is there a simpler way? I need the trunk liners out to be able to remove the rear bumper.
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#2 Old 1 Week Ago
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Just seen this picture on Pelican Parts with regards removing the trunk lock....which looks like what I need to do?



How to get the boot lid into this position?
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Originally Posted by GaryLaird View Post
Just seen this picture on Pelican Parts with regards removing the trunk lock....which looks like what I need to do?



How to get the boot lid into this position?
That's the 'service position' usually attained by starting to open the roof until boot lid unlatches at the front - STOP - open boot lid as normal and pull up and back.
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Originally Posted by M4rCu5 View Post
That's the 'service position' usually attained by starting to open the roof until boot lid unlatches at the front - STOP - open boot lid as normal and pull up and back.
.. obviously going to be a bit of a problem due to losing the initial rear pivot point.
You could try unlatching the front bootlid catches with the cables and draft in a couple of extra bodies to help manhandle it into position.
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Originally Posted by GaryLaird View Post
Just seen this picture on Pelican Parts with regards removing the trunk lock....which looks like what I need to do.

How to get the boot lid into this position?
@GaryLaird - 7mins onwards is relevant:

@Dave2302 - 13:40 .. right there

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Can you post some pictures of the whole lid? You're obviously in a situation where you'll need to operate everything manually. You should start by opening the emergency relief valve and releasing the two wheel well latches with the steel looped cables. Do you see those cables?
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Originally Posted by M4rCu5 View Post
.. obviously going to be a bit of a problem due to losing the initial rear pivot point.
You could try unlatching the front bootlid catches with the cables and draft in a couple of extra bodies to help manhandle it into position.
Correct, that's exactly the problem...no pivot point! So the boot lid catches you refer to are these ....



With these undone you can manhandle the boot lid upwards?

Next question of course is how do you release these catches?
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Originally Posted by GaryLaird View Post
Correct, that's exactly the problem...no pivot point! So the boot lid catches you refer to are these ....



With these undone you can manhandle the boot lid upwards?

Next question of course is how do you release these catches?
Sorry....had not viewed the video......all is answered there.....MANY thanks for that!
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Originally Posted by efair View Post
Can you post some pictures of the whole lid? You're obviously in a situation where you'll need to operate everything manually. You should start by opening the emergency relief valve and releasing the two wheel well latches with the steel looped cables. Do you see those cables?
The video makes it look simple enough....never had to use the emergency relief valve thankfully but will give it a go

Actually its amazing as the accident happened while the top was down. I could not believe that the hood actually did close with a bit of encouragement, pulling on the boot lid.
Just hope that the shunt has not bent/damaged the hood mechanism
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Sorry to read about your accident btw. I didnt see that thread until today, I feel for you after all the work that you've put in so far, chin up and all that

Its going to awkward without the pivot point even with willing assistants and you might end up having to take the lid off altogether, thats a pita in itself but you gotta do what ya gotta do, let us know how you get on
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Originally Posted by GaryLaird View Post
Just seen this picture on Pelican Parts with regards removing the trunk lock....which looks like what I need to do?



How to get the boot lid into this position?

Further to post 5, go to 16:20 on this one:


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The real questions in your case are 1) is the tubular frame bent, and 2) have the anchors for the tubular frame moved relative to the wheel well latches.

For item 1, I have a spare tubular frame in hand that I can photograph and measure for you if needed.

For item 2, you will need another car to compare it to. Slight deviation is acceptable if within the adjustment range.
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Originally Posted by M4rCu5 View Post
Further to post 5, go to 16:20 on this one:
Great thanks
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Originally Posted by efair View Post
The real questions in your case are 1) is the tubular frame bent, and 2) have the anchors for the tubular frame moved relative to the wheel well latches.

For item 1, I have a spare tubular frame in hand that I can photograph and measure for you if needed.

For item 2, you will need another car to compare it to. Slight deviation is acceptable if within the adjustment range.

To
That's very kind of you . I'm hoping that given the top seemed to close OK that the frame is straight but certainly worth checking. First step is removing bumper and trunk lid and getting it to a body shop to straighten out the rear panel. I want to do all the parts removal/reassembly myself as I don't trust bodyshops to get it right with respect to the convertable hood (speaking from experience ) Once I get the 'straight' car back I can then check the frame dimensions as you suggest. I'll need to fit a new (used) trunk lid as well. I can imagine that the alignment of that may be a bit of a challenge but all related 1) & 2)
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Originally Posted by M4rCu5 View Post
Sorry to read about your accident btw. I didnt see that thread until today, I feel for you after all the work that you've put in so far, chin up and all that

Its going to awkward without the pivot point even with willing assistants and you might end up having to take the lid off altogether, thats a pita in itself but you gotta do what ya gotta do, let us know how you get on
Yep....I was pretty sick when it happened...just perfect timing but ......it is what it is. Given the amount of work and new parts fitted to the car its worth way more to me than I will ever get back from a total loss claim. My intention was always to keep the car until the wheels fell of so this just cements that idea further as its never going to be worth much as a CAT s write off.
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Originally Posted by GaryLaird View Post
That's very kind of you . I'm hoping that given the top seemed to close OK that the frame is straight but certainly worth checking. First step is removing bumper and trunk lid and getting it to a body shop to straighten out the rear panel. I want to do all the parts removal/reassembly myself as I don't trust bodyshops to get it right with respect to the convertable hood (speaking from experience ) Once I get the 'straight' car back I can then check the frame dimensions as you suggest. I'll need to fit a new (used) trunk lid as well. I can imagine that the alignment of that may be a bit of a challenge but all related 1) & 2)

If the top closed OK that is definitely a good sign.



Open your emergency relief one turn with a hex key - it's the brass fitting on the body of the roof pump (which is behind the access panel on the right side of the boot - you may need to remove your CD changer to access it). Opening this valve will make it possible (although perhaps not easy) for you to move the boot lid by hand.

Next look and feel around inside the left and right access panels for the two steel cables that are attached to the wheel well latches. Extend these cables so that you can give their looped ends a good firm pull. If necessary, have a helper lift up on the front corner of the lid while you do this.



Once you've disengaged both wheel well latches, stand behind the car, reach over to the front edge of the lid, and tip the lid backwards and up. There will be some resistance but it should be doable by hand. Once the front edge is raised to the limit simply lift the back edge and the lid should be high in the air now. Prop it up as shown in the video.
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I should've mentioned - on the pre-FL cars at least - you can often locate the steel cables through the two small cutouts that give access to the top nuts on the rear shocks. You may not be able to find the "looped ends" this way, but you can often pull enough to release the latches.
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OK to update. Managed to get the boot lid up although it was not happy moving the last couple of inches and would spring back. Anyway it was enough to allow me to get the boot/trunk lining removed and the bumper off. With everything out the extent of the damage became clearer. I was also not aware that the boot lid tubular frame passes around the back of the car and is therefore also bent!

Some observations, when pulling on the cables there was no obvious click, the cables moved only a couple of mm but catches could be release anyway. When I pushed the boot lid back down after having removed the bumper the latches did not match up to the holes and I had to force them inwards to fit....so boot frame is definitely bent/twisted. There was also no positive click when the catches were inserted and indeed there is no latching as I can just pull the boot open again with no pulling on cable. All needs looking at

So I've been down to a local bodyshop who said the damage could easily be pulled out in a 2/3 hours. So providing I do all the other work the damage removal is going to be approx 150. One bit of good news




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Iv'e noticed plenty of these tubular boot/trunk lid frames being sold on ebay, around 50, so worst case I'll need to replace this as well. Just need to see how things are working after the back panel is pulled out.
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Hi Gary,

Glad you got it opened up, that damage doesn't look to bad at all, an easy repair, I'm surprised the Ins Co. put a Cat S on that

Personally I'd not attempt to straighten that Boot Bar, replace it as it is obviously bent

If I were you, I would be looking for a cheap Spares or Repair parts Car, say a 4 cylinder in good nick but blown engine or trans, you'll likely pick one up for a few hundred quid, and there will be millions of useful spares, if of course you have the space to store them.

What you don't want you can always EBay and likely get your money back for the SOR Car or at least a large percentage of it

I'm not actually certain that those Latches are supposed to click locked, are they not operated by other means when in normal use ?

HTH, Cheers Dave
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