Hum/Whining Sound from Under the Hood - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 06-02-2019
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Hum/Whining Sound from Under the Hood

Hello, guys! I'm having a problem. My car is a 98 SLK 230 and today I was doing some normal driving when my car started one of the hoses connecting to the throttle body came off. It was the first hose connecting the throttle body to the air intake that came off. Here's a picture of what I mean: (https://imgur.com/XKBDBHA)

Anyway, once I pulled over and assessed the situation I saw that hose disconnected. So, I reconnected it. Then I tried to turn my car on and it would crank and turn over, but it wouldn't stay that way. I checked a bunch of things but I couldn't figure out why it was doing that. I was at my wits end so I decided to give the MAF a cleaning. I tried to turn the car on after that and it turned over fine! However, there's now a whining sound coming from the engine bay and I don't know why. Here's a video of what I mean: (
)

After reviewing the picture and the video, what do you guys think the cause of my issue is?
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#2 Old 06-02-2019
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I suggest, if possible, that you do not use it.

I will shout the experts for you.

@Mn car guy
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#3 Old 06-03-2019
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Originally Posted by Avel Du View Post
I suggest, if possible, that you do not use it.

I will shout the experts for you.

@Mn car guy
@efair
@stu32
@savcom
@Turdo2
@Padgett
@Australian
Yes, I will take your adivce on this. Also, the CEL is on and it is throwing these codes: P0110 - Intake Air Temperature Sensor 1 Circuit, P0100 Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit.

I have an additional story that may be able to draw light as to what is causing this issue.

A short while ago, a week at most, I went to fill my car up with gas. The unfortunate custom in my state, New Jersey, is that one cannot fill their own vehicle with gasoline for that is the job of the gas attendant that is there. Personally, I feel that this is a stupid law and that I should be able to pump my own gas at my leisure. Anyway, I told the man at the stand, "Please fill her up with premium. Thank you!" He looked at me and responded, "Fill it up with premium?" He's asking just to make sure, of course! "Yes, fill her up with premium!" I said with a smile. I then handed him my card and he went to work. About a minute later I hear a click come from the pump. I check and I see the regular gas switch has been lit up opposed to the premium gas switch. The man handed me my receipt and I checked and saw that he indeed did pump my car full of regular gas. Ever since that fateful day my car has been acting very odd. I drove around on it because there was nothing else I could do at that point. I failed to stay vigilant and that got me regular gas. That regular gas may have caused massive problems to my car. Anyhoo, on that day my car began acting very weird. Aftter about twenty miles or so my car began hesitating a lot. Thankfully I arrived at my place of residence before it became too much of an issue, but from then on I couldn't start my car. I'm terribly bad at wording this so please bear with me. It would crank and turn over, but it would not be able to idle. I'd turn the key in the ignition to turn the car on, it would crank, shake a little bit, and then just stop. Just like that. I remembered how the man put regular gas into the car, so I grabbed my gas can and filled it up with premium. I poured the premium into the car and it fixed the problem. The car would then turn over and stay that way. It would be able to idle and I could drive my car! However, it did throw one code. It gave me: P0100 Mass or Volume Air Flow A Circuit. My first idea was to clean the MAF, which I did, and that chased the code away. So yes, I cleaned the MAF, put the correct gas into my car and from then on it was smooth sailing. Until today.

The above happened at most a week ago. I'm unsure if it'll give any of you any insight as to what is wrong with my car, but I am open to anything you guys have to say. Please leave a comment here and I'll get back to you guys as soon as I can! Thank you so much!
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#4 Old 06-03-2019
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Mine is doing that for 2 years now, no driving issues. I've heard the same sound on other engines, no issues. It is the throttle body, you can verify it by unplugging it (it should stop). If it is related to the codes I don't know, but I don't have any codes.
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#5 Old 06-03-2019
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Originally Posted by m70ab2 View Post
Mine is doing that for 2 years now, no driving issues. I've heard the same sound on other engines, no issues. It is the throttle body, you can verify it by unplugging it (it should stop). If it is related to the codes I don't know, but I don't have any codes.
Hello! I went outside to turn the car on and it would turn over, but then it'll stop for some reason. I managed to take the throttle body off, but I couldn't figure out how to unplug it! The car will crank over but will not run for longer than a second. What can I do from here?
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#6 Old 06-03-2019
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how about your cps? crank position sensor
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#7 Old 06-03-2019
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That noise is normal for these cars. I'm not sure what your issue is. Regular gas can cause rough running but I doubt will cause a non start. Try cleaning the MAF again; then if it idles do the oil cap test to see if your PCV is closed (which causes MAF contamination).
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#8 Old 06-03-2019
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One thought (not the noise)

Overfilling the fuel can cause a similar issue.
Have a search for that, see if it fits.


I think it does something to the filter?

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#9 Old 06-03-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Bobert View Post
Hello, guys! I'm having a problem. My car is a 98 SLK 230 and today I was doing some normal driving when my car started one of the hoses connecting to the throttle body came off. It was the first hose connecting the throttle body to the air intake that came off. Here's a picture of what I mean: (https://imgur.com/XKBDBHA)

Anyway, once I pulled over and assessed the situation I saw that hose disconnected. So, I reconnected it. Then I tried to turn my car on and it would crank and turn over, but it wouldn't stay that way. I checked a bunch of things but I couldn't figure out why it was doing that. I was at my wits end so I decided to give the MAF a cleaning. I tried to turn the car on after that and it turned over fine! However, there's now a whining sound coming from the engine bay and I don't know why. Here's a video of what I mean: (
)

After reviewing the picture and the video, what do you guys think the cause of my issue is?
Yea my Tb makes the same sound key on engine off, not so loud though, why did that hose pop off? Clogged at the other end, loose, just going from the beginning, interesting thread, my thoughts.
Mario
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#10 Old 06-06-2019
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Let me put your mind at ease about the regular versus premium gas. Both are identical except for one thing, premium has more octain added to it which makes the gasoline less volatile. No, premium gas does not make your car run better or have more power.
The reason for having more octain in the fuel is that Most "Normal" passenger car engines are designed with a compression ratio that only requires a certain amount of octain as an example 9 to 1 is common. You can increase the power of the same engine by increasing the compression ratio, example 10 or 11 to 1 which increases the temperature of the air in the cylinder which may cause the fuel to ignite as the piston is still coming up and before the spark plug fires. This causes what is known as "Pinging." to better understand, diesel engines are "Compression ignition engines, meaning that the temperature in the cylinder caused my the compression 21 to 1 is high enough that simply injecting diesel into that environment will cause it to ignite.
Running regular gas in a Mercedes will not hurt it as long as you drive it like grandma going to church on Sunday. Meaning no hot rodding, or you will get pre-ignition "pinging" which may cause damage to the piston over time.
No it is not a good idea to run regular gas in a high compression Mercedes all the time, but you can do it occasionally if you need to, just take it easy diving it, no racing the guy in the other lane.
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#11 Old 06-06-2019
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MAF sensors on the SLK 230 is much more critical than on most other cars, and one that is not working correctly will cause rough running and hesitation that usually feels like a misfire. On 6 and 8 cylinder engines you won't notice it as much and maybe not at all if the sensor is only a little out of whack.
Why these engines?
Because you only have four cylinders so when one goes missing for a second you damn well notice it. In an 8 you will seldom notice a slight hesitation in one cylinder Also these engines will foul up a MAF quicker than any other engine because the air comes in through the filter at atmospheric pressure into the supercharger (Kompressor) to you Germans. It comes out of the supercharger at higher pressure and it can pick up minute amounts of oil during it's trip through the charger. over time this oil coats the tiny wires in the MAF sensor causing it's readings to be off. The MAF reads Milliamps of resistance in the wire caused by the air passing over them. As the tiny wires get coated in oil, dirt and whatever, the resistance increases and will throw the whole thing out of whack. Cleaning them with a spray cleaner will "Sometimes" get them working again, but it is iffy.

***Warning**
Avoid buying the cheap Chinese MAF sensors from E-Bay. The failure rate right out of the box is extremely high, and you do not want to think because you put a new one in that there has to be something else wrong when the car is still not fixed. Genuine Bosch MAF sensors are more expensive but it's worth the peace of mind and saves you spending hours trying to track down the problem when it is the faulty MAF the whole time. Yes I do use some Chinese parts now and then when they are substantially cheaper, but only when it is not a critical part and it is easy to get to and obvious should it fail. Hey, a Chinese anvil works just as well as an OEM anvil and you can look at it to see if it is broken, but a Chinese electrical component may be a piece of junk right from the factory and no way to tell.
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#12 Old 06-07-2019
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Hi,

Slightly relevant re octane ..........................

I'm not certain about the 4 Cylinder Cars as I've never played in depth, but on V6 R170's, (well any MB with ME2.8 ECU) .................

There are various settings that relate to fuel octane within the ME Version Codings, these can be changed with SDS, I think the default setting from factory is Multi Octane, (or some-such wording) .......................

Now if you only ever use high octane fuel, you can set the ME Version Coding for that RON Number using SDS, which basically Advances up the available ignition Maps, meaning your car with this done, will be faster than the bog stock one

There is also an SDS Menu for correctional programming of stuff like Cooling Fan Temps, Ignition, Fuelling etc, so you can tweak your Mercedes with these as well.

So you can in fact re map your own Mercedes within fairly safe limits programmed at the factory, provided you are sensible and stick to the same fuel etc etc ...................

Usual disclaimers apply, if you wreck your Car don't come to me

HTH, Cheers Dave
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#13 Old 06-08-2019
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I tend to agree with you Dave2302
With the almost infinite variability of ignition and valve timing these
modern computers are capable of.
Octain ratings could be a thing of the past. Of course you and I both know that will not happen soon.

There is too much money to be made by charging more for the "Premium!" gas and most people
don't understand or care.

I think it's beat into them at an early age that higher octain makes your car go faster.
You know,
"Put a Tiger in your tank."
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#14 Old 06-13-2019
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I'm from Jersey as well. I don't ever let the attendants fill any of my cars. I tell him what I want, he sets the pump, and leaves it to me. They don't question me as they don't want to be responsible for older vehicles. Your noticing him using regular is a good reason to keep Octane Boost additive in the trunk. Use it as directed per gallon so you don't over do it with the additive. It also increased the mpg's in my fiance's Audi tt.
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