Problems after changing battery - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 05-26-2019
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Problems after changing battery

I've recently purchased a 1998 SLK 230 that was imported from Japan. No rust and very little mileage for it's year (89000 kms) The car was working like a dream until the other day when I parked it and came back out to find it wouldn't start. I got a boost and it took right off. After 2 hours on a charger I had just enough juice to put up the power window but not enough to start it. We had frost the night before. I decided not to take any chances and went to the autoparts store and bought a new battery specific to the car. Installed the battery and it fired up right away. Problem is I now have two warning lights on BAS and SRS and as well the car appears to be in limp mode. This car has a 38 pin socket under the hood for code reading and there's only one place around here that can read it and they are not available until June 3rd. I've ordered and OBD 2 reader and a cable that converts the 38pin to 16. I'm hoping that clearing the codes will solve my problem and then it will be simply the re-syncing everything according to the instructions in the manual. Had I read up on it before I changed the battery, I would have hooked up a back up battery before initiating the change so power wouldn't be lost. Is there anything else I can do other than to wait until June 3 or until my code reader arrives. Any input would be welcome. Thanks.
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#2 Old 05-26-2019
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you do know about moving the steering wheel left n right after changing the battery?
think it is in the owner's manual
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#3 Old 05-26-2019
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Rod,

Put the steering wheel full lock left and then full lock right, the warning lights will go.

Welcome along to the SLK journey, keep us updated on your find!

Sounds good.

Cheers,

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#4 Old 05-26-2019
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Synchronizing ESPIf the power supply was interrupted (battery disconnected or empty), the BAS/ESP malfunction indicator lamp may be illuminated with the engine running.Turn steering wheel completely to the left and then to the right. The BAS/ ESP malfunction indicator lamp
should go out
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#5 Old 05-26-2019
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Thank you gentlemen I will definitely try that will advise how I get along. Thanks again
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#6 Old 05-27-2019
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Hi,

Basically by doing this you are resetting the Steering Angle Sensor values, SAS is in the Clockspring behind Steering Wheel, values are stored in ESP Module and clear when power is removed, or connection between ESP and SAS is unplugged

HTH, Cheers Dave
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#7 Old 05-27-2019
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I performed the steering wheel operation 5 times in a row with no success. From what I'm reading it could be the brake switch as well which died coincidentally with the battery change. I've ordered a brake switch and if all else fails, I have the June 3rd appointment with the repair shop. I will let you all know how it turns out. Thank you all for your input.
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#8 Old 05-27-2019
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Little late but is critical to remove the negative cable first and install it last. No idea why it makes a difference but it does. Many German cars (like my Caddy) are the same.
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#9 Old 05-27-2019
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That's the way I was taught to do it many years ago. Disconnect negative first and connect it last. Not sure of the reasoning behind it but I've never had one blow up in my face so it must have some merit.
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#10 Old 05-27-2019
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One reason (and the only reason I know of) for disconnecting the negative first is that if you then accidentally touch a spanner say between plus and the chassis whilst loosening the bolt for example nothing will happen. Do it the other way round and sparks will surely fly. I always reconnect the plus first for the same reason. Been doing it that way an awfully long time ........
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#11 Old 05-28-2019
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I can tell you with certainty that a faulty Brake Light Switch will put those lights on on the dash
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#12 Old 05-30-2019
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LOL sorry for the problem you are facing but you will have to wait for your meter. Had the same problem myself and reseting is the only way I have found to cure the problem. Pay attention to the codes before you clear them. You may have a problem somewhere that you need to attend to. o2 sensors, mass flow sensor etc. Really can't own one of these cars without a meter.
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#13 Old 05-31-2019
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Thanks to all of you who took the time to offer your advice, it is greatly appreciated. Good news, I have the car back on the road and this is the procedure I followed to do it:


Preparation Steps:

1. Make sure your steering wheel is straight.
2. Make sure your windows are all the way up
3. Make sure your sun roof is completely closed (if you have one)
4. Make sure your parking brake is released.
6. Turn off your stereo and make sure you have your stereo's Anti-theft code.
7. Turn off your heat/AC blower
8. Turn off your lights
9. Make sure your doors are UNLOCKED.

Now, disconnect battery 30 secs and then reconnect.
Get in car close the door and turn the key to position 2 (Just before you start the engine but do not start it)

1. Resetting your windows: Bring down both windows at the same time by holding the switches just before the click that brings them down automatically. Once both windows are all the way down make both switches click by pressing them all the way down and hold them for 3 secs (This lets the ECU learn that that is the end of the window track and it records it in memory). Do the same for closing the windows by holding both switches and making them click once the windows are all the way up.

2. Turn on your blower and make both sides go to 72 deg (if you have this typr of heater control) by pressing both up and down buttons at the same time. This will calibrate the ECU
3. Turn on your stereo and enter you stereo code. 4. Pull the sun roof all the way back and all the way forward then up and then done.

6. Turn all you lights on and off, including your fog lights.

7. Turn the key back to position 0.

8. Turn on your engine. You will get 2 malfunctions, your ABS and ESP lights will be on and must be calibrated.

9. Calibrate your ABS and ESP systems by turning the steering wheel all the way to your RIGHT and then all the way to your LEFT, then bring it back to the middle. Notice the two yellow lights disappear from you dashboard.

10. Let your car run in idle for about 5 minutes and then take it for a spin. Remember your ECU is still getting all the readings from all the sensors on your car so drive slowly first then faster... and so on.. you are basically teaching your ECU how to handle your car.

.

I've received my scanner but am awaiting the cable that coverts 38 pin to 16 and will note it's readings. Thanks again one and all.
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#14 Old 05-31-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by rodsalsman View Post
Thanks to all of you who took the time to offer your advice, it is greatly appreciated. Good news, I have the car back on the road and this is the procedure I followed to do it:


Preparation Steps:

1. Make sure your steering wheel is straight.
2. Make sure your windows are all the way up
3. Make sure your sun roof is completely closed (if you have one)
4. Make sure your parking brake is released.
6. Turn off your stereo and make sure you have your stereo's Anti-theft code.
7. Turn off your heat/AC blower
8. Turn off your lights
9. Make sure your doors are UNLOCKED.

Now, disconnect battery 30 secs and then reconnect.
Get in car close the door and turn the key to position 2 (Just before you start the engine but do not start it)

1. Resetting your windows: Bring down both windows at the same time by holding the switches just before the click that brings them down automatically. Once both windows are all the way down make both switches click by pressing them all the way down and hold them for 3 secs (This lets the ECU learn that that is the end of the window track and it records it in memory). Do the same for closing the windows by holding both switches and making them click once the windows are all the way up.

2. Turn on your blower and make both sides go to 72 deg (if you have this typr of heater control) by pressing both up and down buttons at the same time. This will calibrate the ECU
3. Turn on your stereo and enter you stereo code. 4. Pull the sun roof all the way back and all the way forward then up and then done.

6. Turn all you lights on and off, including your fog lights.

7. Turn the key back to position 0.

8. Turn on your engine. You will get 2 malfunctions, your ABS and ESP lights will be on and must be calibrated.

9. Calibrate your ABS and ESP systems by turning the steering wheel all the way to your RIGHT and then all the way to your LEFT, then bring it back to the middle. Notice the two yellow lights disappear from you dashboard.

10. Let your car run in idle for about 5 minutes and then take it for a spin. Remember your ECU is still getting all the readings from all the sensors on your car so drive slowly first then faster... and so on.. you are basically teaching your ECU how to handle your car.

.

I've received my scanner but am awaiting the cable that coverts 38 pin to 16 and will note it's readings. Thanks again one and all.
r170 does not have a window resetting procedure as the r171 n r172 do...
the r171 procedure is called 'synching windows'
the r172 procedure has been changed to 'resetting windows'
the r170 owner's manual, to my knowledge, does not have a 'window resetting/synching' procedure
just saying...
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#15 Old 05-31-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbanks15 View Post
r170 does not have a window resetting procedure as the r171 n r172 do...
the r171 procedure is called 'synching windows'
the r172 procedure has been changed to 'resetting windows'
the r170 owner's manual, to my knowledge, does not have a 'window resetting/synching' procedure
just saying...
Umm .. they click on the up cycle if you .. forget that, it's this 'drive slowly' bit that I'm struggling to comprehend .. does not compute
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#16 Old 05-31-2019
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Umm .. they click on the up cycle if you .. forget that, it's this 'drive slowly' bit that I'm struggling to comprehend .. does not compute
i checked the r170 manual...up is only mentioned to close the window, no synching/resetting mentioned. please show me. after all, you are on my 'experts' list
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#17 Old 05-31-2019
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i checked the r170 manual...up is only mentioned to close the window, no synching/resetting mentioned. please show me. after all, you are on my 'experts' list
Well .. I don't know 'why' they click but they do if you press up and hold the button on up for approx 3 secs when they're fully up. I can send a photo if that helps?

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Well .. I don't know 'why' they click but they do if you press up and hold the button on up for approx 3 secs when they're fully up. I can send a photo if that helps?

i read that but no where does it say synch/reset window travels is my point....
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#19 Old 05-31-2019
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i read that but no where does it say synch/reset window travels is my point....
Synching with the cars Vario Roof controller makes some sort of sense:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...Adjustment.htm
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Synching with the cars Vario Roof controller makes some sort of sense:
https://www.pelicanparts.com/techart...Adjustment.htm
Thanks
funny how mb does not have that info in their owner's manual
also pelican says that is a pre-facelift 2000 SLK230 Kompressor so maybe it is taken out for facelift r170s
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