Join Date: May 2019
Location: Sothwest, U.K.
Vehicle: 1997 SLK 230 Kompressor
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Hi guy's, well I said I would come back and report on how it went.
Bobby,,, thanks for the reply. You prompted me to update this, so thanks.....
Well I got the standalone wired in and the motor fired up and the car movable again, which was the main thing on this one.
For those interested I'll throw down a few of the basics as it might help others in the future with a similar issue.
MOST IMPORTANT PART FIRST:-
I owe a great deal of gratitude to a few people on here and the site in general. I was new to this site and came here for the purposes of doing the standalone. Despite the fact that I was new and had contributed absolutely nothing to the forum, the members here made me welcome and willingly gave me the benefit of there knowledge and invaluable experience, for no other reason than to help me....
jbanks15, Dave2302, Turdo2, Avel Du, Again,,, Thank you.......
It was actually quite straight forward really. The essential information is all listed above such as sensor type, tooth count etc, and the injectors were dialled in at 305cc with a high Z of around 14 ohms.
One little interesting point to save others the pain. In the Tuner Studio settings (or whatever you use) I needed to increase the trigger angle offset by 72 degrees to find the crank timing mark with the strobe light.
It's quite a simple setup really with wasted spark ignition and batch fire injection so all in all not to hard to wire in.
The CLT sensor was easy to find and after a bit of deduction with a multi meter I was able to isolate the IAT sensor in the MAF housing.
The coils and injectors are also easy to find. Fortunately the crank sensor has a coaxial type plug on it so it was easy to find the sensor polarity out. Also the O2 sensor plug is rite next to it on top of the bell housing.
Basically, I followed those wires back through the loom to the original ECU and cut them about 2" back from the plug. (so I could put them back if ever I wanted to in the future) Then I took that little collection of wires and connected them to the standalone instead... Simple really.
Also, the new standalone also fits in the box next to the original ECU.
So to sum up.. I got it running but it was a hack just to get it movable. A nice job of it is quite possible but would require a little more work than I did because you would need to also find the wiring for things like the instrument cluster, boost and idle control etc, but still perfectly possible though.
I just did a quick setup using wasted spark, batch fire injection, and based on speed density using the standalones on board Map sensor. As it's not going to see any real load that's fine but to use it on the road properly it would need to go on a set of rollers and be set up properly.
Personally, it could be great if done well as you could get the benefit of fully sequential fuel and ignition with other modern niceties such as launch control etc...
I had great fun doing it over a weekend as I had never even touched one of these SLK's before and learned a few things to.
All the very, very best guy's, and again many, many thanks to all of you....