1997 SLK 230 Kompressor Standalone project. - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

SLK R170 General Discussion SLK 200, SLK 230K, SLK 320, SLK32 AMG

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#1 Old 05-23-2019
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1997 SLK 230 Kompressor Standalone project.

Hi Guy's,
New here, so if I have posted this in the wrong section then my apologies. Please redirect me if I have..

I have the task of installing a standalone ECU on my brother's 230.

I'm ok with the nuts and bolts of the install and it's not my first standalone conversion but I have to be totally honest with you guy's out there... I'm really just not model specific up to speed so I just don't know the essential details that I need for the project.....
Stuff like the OEM trigger pattern for example is it 36/1 or 60/2. Or as another example... Is the crank sensor Hall or VR. This kind of stuff really.

So I was hoping that perhaps some of you guy's would be prepared to help me out with that stuff as I progress through this project.
I'm under no illusion with it as I see it's also "Drive by Wire throttle" so I'm sure there will be some hurdles, but I like a challenge...
Forums, I find are excellent for that kind of information because there's such a type specific concentration of expertise.

All the very best,
O.T.
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#2 Old 05-24-2019
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Hi,

Why oh why ?????????????????????????????????????????????????? ?

Unless you are planning to use really exotic stand alone stuff that probably costs more than an MB ECU, you will simply lose control over an awful lot of the PID's.

Result is likely an Engine that does not run as well as it does on the stock ECU, or worse, unless you use a really good mapper who genuinely knows his stuff.

Also remember that if you use Stand alone you will then kill off ESP Control, Auto Transmission and perhaps other stuff, there will be a lot of limp modes.

@Turdo2 has lots of experience of this, and his V8 runs Megasquirt, maybe he can give you more advice on the pro's and cons

HTH, Cheers Dave
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#3 Old 05-24-2019
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Many thanks for the reply Dave,
I'll level with you. It's in a bad way electrically at the moment, it's had a ton of different people into it's wiring over the years so now it's got more sub routines than the star ship Enterprise... Honestly, it's terrible.
My brother had it to another guy near to where he lives. Another Ł250 changed hands, the car ran for a couple of months and now no starting again because of electrical problems.

The thing is it's stranded in the yard at the moment and we have a standalone kicking around. All I need to do is get it started and mobile in the yard for now.
I literally can't make its electrics any worse.
Looking at it, it's a simple enough motor, although The DBW throttle will be a little more tricky. Hooking up some injectors and a wasted spark ignition with a hand full of existing sensors shouldn't be to difficult at all. I can comfortably string some rough VE, AFR, and Ignition tables together for it. It wont see any load really.

I just need to run it for a very short temporary time so that it's mobile.
The trouble that I have is that I'm just not aware at the moment of the little technical data details that I will need to know in order to wire in the standalone. The car is also a long way from me so I like to go to it with as much head's up as I can get.

Things that I need to know at the moment are:-
1. Crank sensor type, i.e. "Hall effect" or "Variable reluctor"
2. Lambda sensor, i.e. "Narrow band" or "Wide band"
3. Crankshaft trigger pattern, i.e "36/1" or "60/2" for example

Any help with this, greatly appreciated.
All the very best guy's,
O.T.
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#4 Old 05-25-2019
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Hi,

1) VR

2) Narrow Band

3) ???????????? (I've no Idea)

HTH, Cheers Dave
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Last edited by Dave2302; 05-26-2019 at 05:28 AM.
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#5 Old 05-25-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by opticaltrigger View Post


Things that I need to know at the moment are:-

3. Crankshaft trigger pattern, i.e "36/1" or "60/2" for example

Any help with this, greatly appreciated.
All the very best guy's,
O.T.
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#6 Old 05-25-2019
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Crank - VR, 60-2 tooth
Cam - VR
Narrow band O2

If you dont leave the stock stuff hooked up, nothing will work right. for Mercedes stuff, Standalones have to be ran in parallel to what Is already there so the stock ECU can still control things that the standalone cannot (transmission, gauge cluster, shifter etc etc)

That's why my V8 has a separate reluctor wheel on the front of the engine as well as a separate coolant temp sensor for the stand alone.
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#7 Old 05-26-2019
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Thanks for that, I'll edit my earlier post I always understood the 4 Cylinders were Hall Sensors, but I have to admit I've not done much with 4 pot Engines in the last 13 years
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#8 Old 05-26-2019
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Guy's,,, Thanks so very much for this information...

I like what your saying about keeping the OEM ecu in place. I'm not to worried about the gauges but I would like the transmission to work properly, or at the very least N, D, and R.
I also noticed the last time I looked that the OEM ecu was thankfully still operating the drive by wire throttle properly.
I'll probably have to do some kind of "walk around" with the stock stuff and a few piggy backs here and there. I'll keep you guy's posted as I go...

One last thing I need guy's, if you could help is... What size or flow rate are the stock injectors in CC's ?

Again though, Many thanks to all of you for this advise. Very,very helpful of you all.
All the very best,
O.T.
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#9 Old 1 Week Ago
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Any progress on this? I am also looking at doing a standalone project on on R170 too.
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#10 Old 1 Week Ago
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Hi guy's, well I said I would come back and report on how it went.
Bobby,,, thanks for the reply. You prompted me to update this, so thanks.....

Well I got the standalone wired in and the motor fired up and the car movable again, which was the main thing on this one.

For those interested I'll throw down a few of the basics as it might help others in the future with a similar issue.
MOST IMPORTANT PART FIRST:-
I owe a great deal of gratitude to a few people on here and the site in general. I was new to this site and came here for the purposes of doing the standalone. Despite the fact that I was new and had contributed absolutely nothing to the forum, the members here made me welcome and willingly gave me the benefit of there knowledge and invaluable experience, for no other reason than to help me....
jbanks15, Dave2302, Turdo2, Avel Du, Again,,, Thank you.......

Ok....
It was actually quite straight forward really. The essential information is all listed above such as sensor type, tooth count etc, and the injectors were dialled in at 305cc with a high Z of around 14 ohms.
One little interesting point to save others the pain. In the Tuner Studio settings (or whatever you use) I needed to increase the trigger angle offset by 72 degrees to find the crank timing mark with the strobe light.

It's quite a simple setup really with wasted spark ignition and batch fire injection so all in all not to hard to wire in.
The CLT sensor was easy to find and after a bit of deduction with a multi meter I was able to isolate the IAT sensor in the MAF housing.
The coils and injectors are also easy to find. Fortunately the crank sensor has a coaxial type plug on it so it was easy to find the sensor polarity out. Also the O2 sensor plug is rite next to it on top of the bell housing.

Basically, I followed those wires back through the loom to the original ECU and cut them about 2" back from the plug. (so I could put them back if ever I wanted to in the future) Then I took that little collection of wires and connected them to the standalone instead... Simple really.
Also, the new standalone also fits in the box next to the original ECU.

So to sum up.. I got it running but it was a hack just to get it movable. A nice job of it is quite possible but would require a little more work than I did because you would need to also find the wiring for things like the instrument cluster, boost and idle control etc, but still perfectly possible though.
I just did a quick setup using wasted spark, batch fire injection, and based on speed density using the standalones on board Map sensor. As it's not going to see any real load that's fine but to use it on the road properly it would need to go on a set of rollers and be set up properly.
Personally, it could be great if done well as you could get the benefit of fully sequential fuel and ignition with other modern niceties such as launch control etc...

I had great fun doing it over a weekend as I had never even touched one of these SLK's before and learned a few things to.

All the very, very best guy's, and again many, many thanks to all of you....

O.T.
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