Exhaust System Problems After Just Buying SLK320 - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

SLK R170 General Discussion SLK 200, SLK 230K, SLK 320, SLK32 AMG

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#1 Old 05-17-2019
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Exhaust System Problems After Just Buying SLK320

Hello Everyone,

I purchased a 2001 SLK320 about 3-4 days ago and joined this forum as there was a lot of valuable information I came across. The vehicle has 225,000 KM. I test drove the vehicle about a week ago and there were no check engine lights or driving issues. The owner did had quite a bit of service records and had taken good care of the vehicle (or at least from the looks of it). However, I live up in Toronto and he was two hours north (even colder) and he had not driving it since September as it was his Summer vehicle.

Fast forward to now, he dropped the vehicle off to me recently. This was the first time the vehicle had been driven since September. I am now getting the following codes for the check engine light:

P0410, P0412, P0446, P0443, P0403, P0135 (twice for some reason), P0141 (twice for some reason)

The codes show up in that order on my OBD reader. I am not sure if that has any significance. Anyways I am kind of bummed out by the situation seeing so many codes pop up. I contacted the previous owner and maintains that no lights were ever on and that the car sat over the winter so the old gas is causing them. He thinks re-filling the tank with new gas should solve the problem. There is about half a tank left but I do not want to do long-term damage to the vehicle by driving it if that is a possibility.

I have read through this forum and there is a lot of good information about some of these issues. However, I am a bit overwhelmed with so many codes popping up at once. I am not even sure where to start and which steps to take. I do have the capability to do some of my own repairs so any insight or suggestions will be really helpful.

Thank you in advance to everyone that takes the time to help me out!
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#2 Old 05-17-2019
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The first thing to do is not to worry too much. The same thing happened to me when I bought mine (but not so many codes). Mine was a P0410 code a day or two after I bought it, so I know how disappointing it is. I changed both oxygen sensors based on advice from a garage which didn't fix the problem. It turned out to be the infamous K40. So a relatively simple fix for me.



I can't really help you to fix it, but there are some very clever guys on this site who will offer advice in due course. Please take some reassurance that all those codes are likely caused by one problem. Lots of codes don't necessarily mean it'll cost thousands to fix.


I don't think you'll be doing any harm by driving it. The codes are all to do with emission control. If it was mine I would drive it for a while. Reset the codes and see if any/which ones come back. Depending how long you plan keeping it and how much you intend doing repairs yourself a good code reader is a good investment for a couple of hundred dollars.
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#3 Old 05-17-2019
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P0410 Secondary Air Injection System Malfunction
P0412 Secondary Air Injection System Switching Valve A Circuit Malfunction
P0443 Evaporative Emission Control System Purge Control Valve Circuit Malfunction
P0446 Evaporative Emission Control System Vent Control Circuit Malfunction
P0403 Exhaust Gas Recirculation Circuit Malfunction
P0135 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 1) x2
P0141 O2 Sensor Heater Circuit Malfunction (Bank 1 Sensor 2) x2


Quote:
Originally Posted by Australian View Post
The first thing to do is not to worry too much. The same thing happened to me when I bought mine (but not so many codes). Mine was a P0410 code a day or two after I bought it, so I know how disappointing it is. I changed both oxygen sensors based on advice from a garage which didn't fix the problem. It turned out to be the infamous K40. So a relatively simple fix for me.



I can't really help you to fix it, but there are some very clever guys on this site who will offer advice in due course. Please take some reassurance that all those codes are likely caused by one problem. Lots of codes don't necessarily mean it'll cost thousands to fix.


I don't think you'll be doing any harm by driving it. The codes are all to do with emission control. If it was mine I would drive it for a while. Reset the codes and see if any/which ones come back. Depending how long you plan keeping it and how much you intend doing repairs yourself a good code reader is a good investment for a couple of hundred dollars.
I agree with Australian.
We do see this sometimes when a car has been sat for a while, codes and faults that didn't formally exist are suddenly there and are troublesome. It is highly unlikely that your 320 has suddenly developed 7 different faults (+2 of those x2) straight out of the blue and far more likely to be one component, module or loose wire that's setting them all off. The K40 would be the the obvious suspect once again and it costs nothing to check it out. Look up threads on here on removal, inspection and repair.
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#4 Old 05-17-2019
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Most fixes, including K40, will be found here https://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-class-diy/

The K40 fix is to reflow the solder. It suffers from micro fractures which can't always be seen.
If you go replacement route price oem at dealer before hunting the web.
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#5 Old 05-17-2019
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Thanks for the feedback everyone. Your responses and reassurance are very helpful. I will check out the K40 relay and report back.

I can also see if the Secondary Air Pump is still working or that is the issue by connecting it to a 12V battery.
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#6 Old 05-17-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by fahadrizwan View Post
Thanks for the feedback everyone. Your responses and reassurance are very helpful. I will check out the K40 relay and report back.

I can also see if the Secondary Air Pump is still working or that is the issue by connecting it to a 12V battery.

And check your battery. SLKs need a battery in very good condition and are the cause of many problems even if they don't appear faulty. It's a good idea to get it tested properly, not just measuring voltage.
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#7 Old 05-18-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Australian View Post
And check your battery. SLKs need a battery in very good condition and are the cause of many problems even if they don't appear faulty. It's a good idea to get it tested properly, not just measuring voltage.
Hi,

Exactly this

Heavy Discharge Tester needed, a Multimeter puts no load on a circuit, so you can see 12.5 V on a completely useless Battery

If you don't have a tester, (hell even a lot of Garages don't), turn all lights on, connect Multimeter across Battery place meter on windscreen so you can see it, crank Engine over on the Starter and note what the reading drops to whilst Starter is engaged.

Anything down to 11.2 Volts is acceptable, 10.9 V and below I'd be replacing that Battery and not a Halfrauds / EBay cheapo either

I see more problems on Benz caused by a weak Battery than anything else, and 90% of the time the Customer says "It starts the Car OK"

HTH,

Cheers Dave
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#8 Old 05-19-2019
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Thanks for the tip regarding the battery. That will be my next step.

I pulled the RCM yesterday and inspected it. I did not notice any burnt contacts or soldering. Although I do not have too much experience with soldering. I was able to take some pictures. See attached. Would love to hear other people's opinion...it looks fine to me but I might be wrong.
Attached Images
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#9 Old 05-19-2019
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Hi,

It is my understanding that you cannot physically see a problem with K40 Module, it is advised to re flow all the solder joints, see the sticky on this Forum for how and where to do this:-

https://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-ge...ay-module.html

HTH,

Cheers Dave
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#10 Old 05-19-2019
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Dave2302 View Post
Hi,

It is my understanding that you cannot physically see a problem with K40 Module, it is advised to re flow all the solder joints, see the sticky on this Forum for how and where to do this:-

https://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-ge...ay-module.html

HTH,

Cheers Dave

Agree. Sometimes poor joints can be seen - I could only just see issues with joints on my K40. But there are many posts on this site where people have reported being unable to see anything wrong with their K40, yet re-flowing the joints, and in some cases replacing the K40, solved their problem.
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