Hydraulic pump test procedure - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Hydraulic pump test procedure

Hello to all,
Is there a simple test procedure that I could apply to the hydraulic pump to see or hear if it works at all. It has MB Hydraulic fluid to the Max fill line, fuses have been replaced and are good, and there is power at the plug.

I just printed out the "Vario Roof diagnosis/troubleshooting" PDF and will start that process.



Thx,
Gabe
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#2 Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Originally Posted by Foxunit1968 View Post
Hello to all,
Is there a simple test procedure that I could apply to the hydraulic pump to see or hear if it works at all. It has MB Hydraulic fluid to the Max fill line, fuses have been replaced and are good, and there is power at the plug.

I just printed out the "Vario Roof diagnosis/troubleshooting" PDF and will start that process.



Thx,
Gabe

Something like this? :

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#3 Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Some recent discussion here: https://www.slkworld.com/#/topics/541210

What's your red light doing?
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#4 Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Turns red when I hold it back (top down mode), all the windows retreat and that's it. No unlatching, nothing. Upon releasing the button, light out.
Same for top up mode, turns red, all windows up, release and light out.
No flashing, no sounds.
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Thank you very much. Very, very helpful.
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Do you hear anything out of the pump?
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Originally Posted by M4rCu5 View Post

Thank you very much M4rCu5, exactly what I'm looking for. I will try this today.


Gabe
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Do you hear anything out of the pump?

Negative efair, so i'm thinking that's the issue. I will jump the relay socket shown in the video that M4rCu5 linked to.
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Originally Posted by Foxunit1968 View Post
Negative efair, so i'm thinking that's the issue. I will jump the relay socket shown in the video that M4rCu5 linked to.

Ok, so I jumpered 30 & 87 on the relay socket ignition off and ignition on...nothing. Amperage reading was .6 Amps (600mA) with 12 volts at the socket (pin 87).

In short, I'd say I have a bad pump.


BTW, is there a diagram showing the hydraulic lines and proper placing at/on the pump?
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Originally Posted by Foxunit1968 View Post
BTW, is there a diagram showing the hydraulic lines and proper placing at/on the pump?

The hydraulic lines are all numbered, as are the ports on the pump. Unless you've butchered your hoses, you should be able to use these numbers.


So +12V constant? No "dropping to zero"?
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The pressure relief stud has O rings at the bottom of it.
Others have reported changing them ( search for threads on SLKWorld) has done wonders.

If you have no noise it won’t help you I know, but I mention it here under pump problems because these little O rings often are forgotten.



.... my 1000th post. Yeah!
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Originally Posted by efair View Post
The hydraulic lines are all numbered, as are the ports on the pump. Unless you've butchered your hoses, you should be able to use these numbers.


So +12V constant? No "dropping to zero"?

Yes. Positive and constant 12 volts. Just out of curiosity, since it wasn't working anyway, I dismantled the pump, solenoids and motor. There was a bit of black sludge at the bottom of the fluid reservoir along with some very dirty(dark) fluid. I cleaned it all up and topped it back off with MB Hydraulic fluid. All for not, still not working. Oh well.
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Originally Posted by Pictor View Post
The pressure relief stud has O rings at the bottom of it.
Others have reported changing them ( search for threads on SLKWorld) has done wonders.

If you have no noise it won’t help you I know, but I mention it here under pump problems because these little O rings often are forgotten.



.... my 1000th post. Yeah!

I've tried removing the relief stud but was unable to due to the aluminum bolt next to it preventing it from backing out more than the allowed clearance.
Congrats on your 1000th post.
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Did you try direct wiring the motor while it was out? I've never tried any work on the motor but that would be my next thought. I wonder if it can be rebuilt.
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Originally Posted by Foxunit1968 View Post
I've tried removing the relief stud but was unable to due to the aluminum bolt next to it preventing it from backing out more than the allowed clearance..
I think the silver Aluminium bolt has to come out to release the brass one.
There is an excellent thread here somewhere that describes this in detail.

At least being in US you have places to get the pump overhauled nearby if you wish.
Also with the cars getting to this age, for some things that go wrong, if I do them once now, I know I’ll never need to
do them again.
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Originally Posted by efair View Post
Did you try direct wiring the motor while it was out? I've never tried any work on the motor but that would be my next thought. I wonder if it can be rebuilt.

efair, I was starting to run short on time, so no I didn't. The motor coils looked relatively clean with no charring or burnt smell and no binding so I was able to spin it rather freely. I'm guessing the problem was on that circuit board, probably a burnt capacitor or resistor. Had I a bit more time I would have accessed the circuit board and the four contacts for a closer inspection. Aside from having the spare circuit parts, the motor was pretty basic.
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