K-40 Re-Solder Problem - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

SLK R170 General Discussion SLK 200, SLK 230K, SLK 320, SLK32 AMG

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#1 Old 12-23-2018
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K-40 Re-Solder Problem

Not really a DYI person. Read the previous posts on re-soldering a K-40. Perhaps I have misssed something.

The Problem...attempted to re-solder by melting the existing solder, and/or to remove and put new solder. Solder gun would not even begin to melt the old solder.....so, took a nail and heated it with a torch. Got it red hot and place against solder. Not even a hint of melting!! 😣

And the solution is ????? 😳
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#2 Old 12-23-2018
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It's not really necessary to remove and replace the solder. All you need to do it hold the soldering iron on the solder until it melts, then remove the soldering iron and let the solder cool. If your soldering iron isn't melting the solder then you don;t have one with a high enough wattage. I managed to do mine with a fairly small one (30W, I think). Try a small solder blob and see if it works on that. It can take a few seconds for the solder to melt, maybe you aren't holding it on long enough.
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#3 Old 12-23-2018
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Originally Posted by Australian View Post
It's not really necessary to remove and replace the solder. All you need to do it hold the soldering iron on the solder until it melts, then remove the soldering iron and let the solder cool. If your soldering iron isn't melting the solder then you don;t have one with a high enough wattage. I managed to do mine with a fairly small one (30W, I think). Try a small solder blob and see if it works on that. It can take a few seconds for the solder to melt, maybe you aren't holding it on long enough.
I will check the wattage on the soldering iron. Can't get it to melt......I thought for sure the head of a torch-heated nail (smoking red hot) would melt it...but it didn't. The nail put enough heat in the solder to start sweating the board under the solder, but didn't melt the solder.


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#4 Old 12-23-2018
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When it melts it just changes from shiny to dull, it doesn't change shape.
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#5 Old 12-24-2018
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Tip of iron needs to be clean. Dampen a sponge and stroke the tip across it a couple of times. You could also clean up the board with a passive flux solution for low temp soldering.


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#6 Old 12-24-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by efair View Post
When it melts it just changes from shiny to dull, it doesn't change shape.
I believe you mean dull to shiny.


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#7 Old 12-24-2018
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The SLK's were coming on the market just as ROHS regulations were getting off the ground. The new solders need quite a bit more energy to get to liquid state. They also don't flow as well.

Your K40 board has an environmental protective coating on that is surprisingly heat resistant. You do need a good sized Iron 90 Watts or so and a broad chisel tip to get it going. Scraping the coatings off with a scalpel will help.
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#8 Old 12-24-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by nimbusgb View Post
The SLK's were coming on the market just as ROHS regulations were getting off the ground. The new solders need quite a bit more energy to get to liquid state. They also don't flow as well.

Your K40 board has an environmental protective coating on that is surprisingly heat resistant. You do need a good sized Iron 90 Watts or so and a broad chisel tip to get it going. Scraping the coatings off with a scalpel will help.

Ah! That would explain why I struggled with my 30W. It did seem hard work at the time.
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#9 Old 12-28-2018
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I've always said a good, 50W plus iron is needed to mend a K40. Any hobby iron (usually 15-25W) hasn't got the heat capacity to melt the solder and reflow it. Indeed, an iron that is too small would likely leave you with dry joints, which will worsen the situation. (Dry joints are not dull or shiny but crystalline in appearance and do not conduct electricity as well)

Also, you should also add fresh solder to the joint as you melt it to help the solder flow and to provide flux which is needed to keep the joint clean.
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