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#81 Old 07-23-2018
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Originally Posted by DAJ 190 View Post
I'm thinking that whatever method is used to control those rears, It will always come down to a simple check of where the rears are before commencing the next action. So my early idea of fitting a hinged plate that drops down over the main roof control switch is probably the easiest safeguard to use. A label stuck on the top surface of the plate, showing "CHECK REARS" completes the safeguard device ….. I've just returned from a drive in beautiful North Wales. Having control of those rear windows is SO advantageous …. Believe me!

David
You're probably right to stick with what you've got and just add the hinged plate and label. JD.


I've got a little location envy going on now . N Wales is a beautiful part of of the country, enjoy
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#82 Old 4 Weeks Ago
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I've just looked back through this interesting thread! There is STILL the possibility of raising my roof with the rear windows in the lifted position. However, I've got so used to using the switches, it hasn't happened at all. I've given it some thought and concluded that the only sure way to prevent this is to fit a micro-switch below one of the rears. Then when that window is lowered it closes the micro-switch and allows continuity of current flow to allow the roof to be raised. However, what about when the roof has to be lowered? That commences with the rears raised More head-scratching! Any ideas to allow this project to be perfected?

David
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Originally Posted by DAJ 190 View Post
I've just looked back through this interesting thread! There is STILL the possibility of raising my roof with the rear windows in the lifted position. However, I've got so used to using the switches, it hasn't happened at all. I've given it some thought and concluded that the only sure way to prevent this is to fit a micro-switch below one of the rears. Then when that window is lowered it closes the micro-switch and allows continuity of current flow to allow the roof to be raised. However, what about when the roof has to be lowered? That commences with the rears raised More head-scratching! Any ideas to allow this project to be perfected?

David

So yes. After reading through your concerns. The microswitch idea is definitely the way to go if you are apt to forget about lowering the rear windows when raising or lowering the top however I can say in my own experience, raising and lowering requires a bit of thought for me. With more than 40 drives this past summer, I have not once forgot to lower the rear windows first. I do have one sticky switch though which I am probably going to swap out in the near future.
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#84 Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Originally Posted by SgtMyagi View Post
With more than 40 drives this past summer, I have not once forgot to lower the rear windows first.
It's just that with knowing the damage that can result if they're still up, I'd like it to be "fool-proof"! So following my ideas, the switch gives a live feed to the roof operation action only when the rears are in the lowered position. I can do that and I can see that the roof will be raised safely. So with the roof up, the rears are still lowered. Now because they can be manually lifted, then the car can be fully sealed from the weather. Now if the auto roof lowering button is pressed, then nothing will happen because the rears are still up? Is that correct? The way I've wired my SLK is to be have a choice of still being able to revert to standard roof operation mode. Well, that won't work now? I'd have to first manually lower the rears .... This gets worse by the minute? I've just GOT to figure this one out!
So again, this is the simple requirement :- Manual control of the rears but with no possibility of operating the main roof control switch with the rears still raised. Maybe I should offer a big prize for the first solution to this "simple" problem?

David
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#85 Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Try Micro Switches that Kill / Cut / Interrupt the Roof Hydraulic Pump Power (Via a Relay), only when the Back Windows are right UP at the top, not whole system when up, not interrupt until right down !!

HTH, Cheers Dave
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Originally Posted by Dave2302 View Post
Try Micro Switches that Kill / Cut / Interrupt the Roof Hydraulic Pump Power (Via a Relay), only when the Back Windows are right UP at the top, not whole system when up, not interrupt until right down !!

HTH, Cheers Dave
O.K., that's another way to look at this, but, under "normal" roof lowering operating mode, how can that operation commence? The rears are up and hence there's no power to the pump. Wouldn't that stop the rears being lowered because the system assumes there is pump failure? Interesting! Maybe the only way would be to try it out? No, I think that the safety check has to ensure that the windows ARE down ....

David
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Hi David,

I'm no VR expert, but I have fixed a few

The reason I suggested that is that I went out and carefully observed as I opened my Roof early this morning, the Rear Windows definitely started to move down, the pump did not engage until they had moved at least 25 to 50 mm down, at which point the Trunk Lid starts to lift and then the forward Roof Locks release etc etc etc in that order ......................

I don't know if it will actually work, but yes, I doubt VR Module would flag a Pump fault until it actually tries to run it

It's worth a shot, and that's all I got right now

And I'll have a "Chicken Dinner" if it works

HTH, Cheers Dave
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#88 Old 4 Weeks Ago
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Originally Posted by Dave2302 View Post
Hi David,

I'm no VR expert, but I have fixed a few

The reason I suggested that is that I went out and carefully observed as I opened my Roof early this morning, the Rear Windows definitely started to move down, the pump did not engage until they had moved at least 25 to 50 mm down, at which point the Trunk Lid starts to lift and then the forward Roof Locks release etc etc etc in that order ......................

I don't know if it will actually work, but yes, I doubt VR Module would flag a Pump fault until it actually tries to run it

It's worth a shot, and that's all I got right now

And I'll have a "Chicken Dinner" if it works

HTH, Cheers Dave
O.K. I wonder if we could have solved this together? I wonder if you could have done a few tests with powering the rears indirectly via the plug/socket behind the seats? What you've said is useful information, though. There aren't many switches nc/no, but many that are no/nc! So that way of looking at it is much more feasible. I wonder if you could give a link to a suitable switch? In life, I've very rarely failed to solve any problem and with your help, I'm sure that I'll get this right ,too. Thanks!

David
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After several days of driving rain it brightened up today here on Vancouver Island so at 14C when we left it was window up roof down heater on. An hour later it was 18.
I would not gain anything by having the rears up with the roof open and the only time I drive it with the roof closes is when it is raining so the rears are up.

I like life simple so I don't see the point. The rears are so small they don't detract in the side appearance when they are up IMHO so the effort doesn't seem worth it.
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#90 Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Originally Posted by Alex 3 View Post
I would not gain anything by having the rears up with the roof open and the only time I drive it with the roof closes is when it is raining so the rears are up.
.
Each to their own and that's your take on it. I've had personal experience of this mod and I wouldn't be without it! Firstly there's the aesthetics ... The window line is smooth and continuous and doesn't look "chopped-off". Then there's the obvious reduction in turbulence. But finally, (and this did surprise me), it's quieter, too! I also like to have all the windows down with the roof raised. It looks great and like the pillarless coupes of bygone years. So, IMHO, that's a plus from every aspect!
It's a pity the control of the rears hadn't been incorporated from when the SLK was first built?

David
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#91 Old 3 Weeks Ago
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Originally Posted by Dave2302 View Post
Try Micro Switches that Kill / Cut / Interrupt the Roof Hydraulic Pump Power (Via a Relay), only when the Back Windows are right UP at the top, not whole system when up, not interrupt until right down !!

HTH, Cheers Dave
I'm going to give this a try. The switch will have to be mounted below the body-line and hidden. I'll then have to fabricate a right-angle bracket which would be attached to and protrude away from the lower edge of a rear window. (This is the arm that activates the switch mechanism) Then, when that window is fully raised, the power is cut to the pump that raises the roof section. That power feed can be obtained from the main control switch between the seats. Is that correct? I've found this switch https://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/D2HW-BL23...YAAOSwzsNci5bZ Does it look to be suitable? It's rated at 2 amp, so would I need to use a relay? What current is drawn through the main control switch when it's used to control the roof? Doesn't that run through a relay, too, and therefore would be low-current?
Just a little discussion needed about the (hoped-for) final outcome : This SHOULD work To alleviate the danger of the rears being still up and then an attempt being made, via the main roof control switch, to raise the roof ..... fine ... Now we have the other action where the roof is to be lowered Well the rears are up and hence there is no power to the roof-pump. Now hopefully, when the main roof control button is pressed, the normal sequence starts and the rears commence to be lowered, That will, of course, restore power to the roof-pump and the roof can be fully lowered. Eureka!
I've got a feeling that I am going to perfect this, after all! Well, I can dream, can't I?

David
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Hi David,

I don't think it would work by doing voodoo stuff at the Switch, the Switch has to work to pull the Windows Down, that is why I suggested a relay just to Inhibit Pump operation only, that way as the Window falls away, the Pump operation is restored before the VR Module tries to actuate Pump.

I can't be any more specific without looking up Wiring Diagrams and figuring it out, and being brutally honest I'm very busy and have had enough of headaches from Wiring Diagrams over the last few weeks with my V6 to V8 Conversion

HTH, Cheers Dave
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O.K., I understand what you're saying. So I'll need to identify the wire going to the pump that's used to control roof movement. Thanks, Dave.
If you're too busy, I wonder if any other member can help with that and also where's the best place to access it? Where IS the pump? Then there's the question of current flow and the requirement to use a relay in conjunction with that switch?

David
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Hi David,

@savcom @efair and @i860 might be able to get you the wiring diags quicker than I can if they are about.

I would have to haul out and boot one of my SDS machines atm, then copy files to stick to get them on here and to you ...........

This is because my Workshop Server I use all the time, (Windows 10 rubbish) has done an update and nuked my copy of WIS / EPC that is on here

Pump is behind Right Rear Trunk Lining Panel, it may also have it's own relay there IIRC, so you could just tap into the Relay Coil Trigger Wire or Relay Coil Earth, rather than using a Relay for a Relay, however don't put Pump Motor current through Micro Switch , but a micro switch will be ok with Pump Relay Current draw

That is why you need wiring diagram, because I'm not certain exactly which wire you need to tap

HTH, Cheers Dave
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Originally Posted by Alex 3 View Post
I like life simple so I don't see the point. The rears are so small they don't detract in the side appearance when they are up IMHO so the effort doesn't seem worth it.
Here's a couple of photo's of my SLK showing the improved window line ....
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Hi David,

Ah yes, looks OK, but the billion dollar question is do you actually get a reduction in the wind around the neck, buffeting and noise ?? ..................

If you can honestly say you do I might consider it just to keep Mel happy

Cheers Dave
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@DAJ 190

Yeah, it does look better

As does the Depos
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do you actually get a reduction in the wind around the neck, buffeting and noise ?? ..................
Dave, I've lost track of just how many times that I've sung the praises of this mod on the Forum? I can't understand how you've missed them? I'ts one of the best mods that you can do! I have one other alteration that I'm really keen to do and that is to design a windscreen "extender" This will be a device that attaches/pivots from the top edge of the windscreen (or it could be two such devices, over the passenger and driver sides) Then, when the roof is lowered, the airflow is diverted easily, right over the occupants heads! This would be even at speed. I just want to be sat there with my hair completely unruffled! I want to be in a warm and cosy cocoon! (At the moment I tend to wear a lightweight "panama" style hat) It is pretty good at the moment, with the rears up and a full-width quality rear wind-deflector. That further mod will be "the icing on the cake!"

David
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#99 Old 3 Weeks Ago
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@DAJ 190

As does the Depos
Thanks for that .... Yes, I think that they really suit the shape of the car and bring it forward, modern and dynamic. The other type, with twin halo's, I'm not happy with .... they have a bulging "frogs-eyes" effect and look ugly. Well, that's just my opinion!

David
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Thanks for that .... Yes, I think that they really suit the shape of the car and bring it forward, modern and dynamic. The other type, with twin halo's, I'm not happy with .... they have a bulging "frogs-eyes" effect and look ugly. Well, that's just my opinion!

David




Thing with my Sonars is they use separate Bulbs for dipped and full beam, and so are ripe for adding Xenon dips and 5000k matching H7 Full Beam Bulbs.

And, I like them

Cheers Dave
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