Trunklid rotary striker: how to fix it? - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 02-23-2018
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Trunklid rotary striker: how to fix it?

Hi all. Unfortunately I have some troubles with the Vario Roof of my 96 SLK.

I have to manually close the trunklid latch to have it working properly: I do it with a small screwdriver. If the trunk is already locked, there's no need for it; yet, if I open the trunk itself, the striker doesn't match with the latch (see pic), since it's about 1-2 cm too ahead.

I must guess the rotary support for the striker does not align properly, thus I'd like to know which sensors are to be checked or what procedure to do to fix it.

When I "trick" the latch (manually closing it), I have to stop the opening/closing procedure when the trunk is fully retracted, in order to open the latch (with the trunk button) and match the latch and the striker. As you can easily guess, it's not the most comfortable or straightforward procedure.

I had Top Operation as reference, but unfortunately I didn't find anything suitable for my needs.

Thank you in advance for any hint.

Guido
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Last edited by sintoni; 02-23-2018 at 06:11 AM. Reason: My English is not so good :)
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#2 Old 02-23-2018
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Both parts are adjustable, as is the boot lid. Does the lid appear correctly aligned? Are the gaps even all around?
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#3 Old 02-23-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by efair View Post
Both parts are adjustable, as is the boot lid. Does the lid appear correctly aligned? Are the gaps even all around?
TY for reply. Yes, the lid is correctly aligned, as you can see in the pic. The gap between the latch and the striker is huge (1,5 cm at least unless I do what I described in the early post), that's why I think it's not a simple matter of adjustement.

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#4 Old 02-23-2018
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So if your roof is closed and you open the boot, I.E. to put groceries in, when you close the lid the latch won't catch and the lid won't stay down?
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#5 Old 02-24-2018
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Originally Posted by efair View Post
So if your roof is closed and you open the boot, I.E. to put groceries in, when you close the lid the latch won't catch and the lid won't stay down?

yes, that's (unfortunately) right
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#6 Old 02-24-2018
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If you remove the trim covering the boot latch you will find two adjustable screws as I recall (done this myself).


Best to keep changes to as little as you can get away with.


The boot lid opens as normal with all cars.


But opens the opposite way when the roof operates.


You don't want to make big changes.

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#7 Old 02-24-2018
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Originally Posted by Avel Du View Post
If you remove the trim covering the boot latch you will find two adjustable screws as I recall (done this myself).


Best to keep changes to as little as you can get away with.


The boot lid opens as normal with all cars.


But opens the opposite way when the roof operates.


You don't want to make big changes.
Hi. Many thanks for all the replies. The two adjustable screws move up and down the striker, it's a height adjustement which I've already done. Unfortunately the height is right (otherwise, the boot couldn't close): I need to make an adjustement towards the rear of the car for the striker support, as in the pic. I don't know if that can be done manually or it's a matter of some not working control switch/switches. Sorry for bothering you all.

Thanks
Guido
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#8 Old 02-24-2018
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This is a mechanical issue, there are no electronics involved. The other part of the latch - the one on the boot lid - is adjustable front-to-rear. Have you tried adjusting it?

Can you post some close-up pictures of both parts of the latch from several angles?
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#9 Old 02-24-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by efair View Post
This is a mechanical issue, there are no electronics involved. The other part of the latch - the one on the boot lid - is adjustable front-to-rear. Have you tried adjusting it?

Can you post some close-up pictures of both parts of the latch from several angles?
Thank you, the first one is a good news.

On Monday (the car is at the mechanic's) I'll try and adjust the latch on the boot lid. Sounds incredible that as soon I bought the car the issue was not present, and I opened and closed the trunk several times. I only made a very small adjustement in height to let the boot close more softly: I removed the cover and moved the screws (torx 25) of a couple of millimeters.

I'll do some close-ups (thank you again), but I can't take pics when the boot is closed (even if, in order to solve the problem, I can take them or record a short video from inside the boot itself, even if it's not very comfortable)

No words to say thank you all, mates.

Guido
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#10 Old 02-24-2018
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put your smartphone in trunk, position it with flash on and take a video
then you can make photos from the video

or put an assistant in the trunk to take photos/videos

then upload em

in usa, trunk has emergency exit green button fyi


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#11 Old 02-24-2018
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Originally Posted by jbanks15 View Post
put your smartphone in trunk, position it with flash on and take a video
then you can make photos from the video

or put an assistant in the trunk to take photos/videos

then upload em

in usa, trunk has emergency exit green button fyi
Since my mechanic is my best friend, I trust him. At least, since I still have to pay his job on this car
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#12 Old 02-24-2018
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I just want to see them with the lid open to compare (maybe someone swapped?)

Wierd that it just started.
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#13 Old 02-25-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by jbanks15 View Post
put your smartphone in trunk, position it with flash on and take a video
then you can make photos from the video

or put an assistant in the trunk to take photos/videos

then upload em

in usa, trunk has emergency exit green button fyi
Tomorrow I'm gonna shoot the pics. I'll post one coming from a working SLK as a reference.
Thank you for your hekp.
I'm afraid in Europe the emergency exit is called... DIY
Cheers,
Guido
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#14 Old 02-26-2018
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Sounds like you might need to adjust at the hinge bracket.

http://www.filedropper.com/trunkadjustmentr170

(Sorry I cant figure out the file hosting that other people seem to use here)


I had a loose striker which cause me difficulty with the boot, and I still have a pretty wide gap at the bottom edge of trunk. Pulling it lower seemed to drop the trunk lid lower than the rear quarter panels. I guess my rear bumper is out of alignment too.
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#15 Old 02-26-2018
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Originally Posted by Rogan View Post
Sounds like you might need to adjust at the hinge bracket.

http://www.filedropper.com/trunkadjustmentr170

(Sorry I cant figure out the file hosting that other people seem to use here)


I had a loose striker which cause me difficulty with the boot, and I still have a pretty wide gap at the bottom edge of trunk. Pulling it lower seemed to drop the trunk lid lower than the rear quarter panels. I guess my rear bumper is out of alignment too.
thanks a lot. gonna print the procedure and today, after taking some shots from inside, i'm gonna try and fix that issue.
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#16 Old 02-27-2018
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I have really to say thank you to everyone, I was able to fix the issue. I placed a cam in the trunk and recorded a video: the striker was not properly closing. I had to change the original bolts on the tubular frame with more robust one (instead of a 25 torx head, I used a 10 Allen head) and adjusted the boot as described in the PDF. It took about a couple of hours, it's a simple job (but you have to be very cautious about it). Many thanks again!
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#17 Old 02-27-2018
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Which PDF did you use, and can you say what adjustment you made was most critical?

In your two pictures - is one "before" and one "after" your repair?
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#18 Old 03-02-2018
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Originally Posted by efair View Post
Which PDF did you use, and can you say what adjustment you made was most critical?

In your two pictures - is one "before" and one "after" your repair?
Hello, I followed the procedure shown in the PDF posted by Rogan ('Adjust trunk lid'). It's a 12-steps procedure: it only takes some time and patience.

As for myself, the trickiest point is the last one ('Adjust tubular frame'): fortunately I only needed to align horizontally and vertically the striker and the rubber buffers on hinge levers. The pics are part of a video I recorded when the striker didn't match with the latch: you can see the horizontal gap I had to adjust therefore.

Now I'm working on door panels and Bose audio system (I have two woofers not working): I'm gonna cover it in a separate post.

Thank you to everyone for your kind suggestions!

Guido
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