Doors, petrol cap and boot all lock but wont unlock - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 02-07-2018
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Doors, petrol cap and boot all lock but wont unlock

I need some advice please and I have had a good look through the various threads already that relate to similar issues.

The issue is as stated above in the heading, but to make things worse I have also never been able to open the doors or boot manually using the key for some reason but this has never been an issue until now,

Anyway ....the key fob works to flash the lights on with both unlock and lock mode but it will only lock when doors are unlocked.

I have managed to get someone to 'break in'thtrough the door glass and manually pull the door lever open. Great!!

When inside using the central locking button on the dash, this only locks and doesn't unlock.

So my problem are

1) Why would the lock only lock and not open?

2) How do I manually open my filler cap and boot lid?

Obviously I won't lock the car up now as I would be back to square one not being able to get into it.

On a positive note the roof top will open alright and this will open the boot from the other end to put the roof away.

Is there some emergency release inside that I can reach to open either the fill cap or boot lid?

I will have a look at the air line inside the door cover when the weather gets a bit more favourable but why would it work one way and not the other ?

Any help would be very much appreciated

Steve
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#2 Old 02-07-2018
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Steve, how old is battery and has it been tested?
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#3 Old 02-07-2018
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Its brand new and fully charged

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#4 Old 02-07-2018
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Locks seized. Lots of folk get that one.


Needs Lithium grease spraying into it (WD40 or similar) and wiggling the key.
Can take several attempts over a few days.


PSE and K40 look possible for the problem.


Try getting it's codes read.


A quick check of the pse is seeing if the sponge around it is damp.
If it is, or shows signs of having been damp previously, it's probably worth starting there.
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#5 Old 02-07-2018
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Steve - you're probably miles ahead of me, but have you read this thread? It may help you understand the operation if not provide the answer.
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#6 Old 02-07-2018
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Steve - you're probably miles ahead of me, but have you read this thread? It may help you understand the operation if not provide the answer.
Yes thanks, I had seen this thread but unfortunately I can't gain access to the boot at the moment or fill cap also as the boot key hole appears to be seized .

But some of the symptoms are the same except that my internal central locking only locks and doesn't unlock.

Steve
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#7 Old 02-07-2018
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Hi Steve, I had a similar problem last year, I thought I’d never get the boot lock to work....a few good soakings of WD40 didn’t seem to work, even though it was!!
What did the trick was to hold a screwdriver blade to the lock and hold an electric sander to the handle of the screwdriver, after a two or three thirty second blasts of doing this the vibration managed to release the pins in the lock and hey presto
I removed the pse pump, it was bone dry, I cleaned the connections, put it back in and it’s all worked fine since.
Fingers crossed you can resolve yours as easily




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#8 Old 02-08-2018
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Thanks John, I think I will also give this a try with a vibration machine of sorts

Also, did your locks work at all on the remote, mine do lock but won't open so there is at least some life in the PSE pump I think?

Thanks
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#9 Old 02-08-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve pring View Post
I can't gain access to the boot at the moment or fill cap also as the boot key hole appears to be seized.
Quote:
Originally Posted by john hannon View Post
Hi Steve, I had a similar problem last year, I thought I’d never get the boot lock to work....a few good soakings of WD40 didn’t seem to work
Hmm. Not directly related to the thread but looking at the issue with the frozen key locks it makes sense to add a 'test all your car door/boot locks with a key' to the regular Gummi Pflege tasks with the seals and maybe lithium grease the key holes when we do the hinges? It should mean we get each key lock tested (and freed if necessary) before we *need* to use them. I know I'll be checking my locks when I am next using Silkie.

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#10 Old 02-08-2018
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Hi Steve, in my case the remote had stopped working on both keys.....and when I pressed the buttons on the fob I couldn’t hear the pump.


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#11 Old 02-21-2018
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Hi Steve I have a similar problem , mine locks but doesn't unlock on the keyfob , no pse pump noise on trying to unlock but lights flash when I press lock or unlock on the keyfob. Did you sort yours out? Cheers
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#12 Old 02-22-2018
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Hi Steve I have a similar problem , mine locks but doesn't unlock on the keyfob , no pse pump noise on trying to unlock but lights flash when I press lock or unlock on the keyfob. Did you sort yours out? Cheers
Hi Rob

Well sort of I think. Long story, but I managed to get the boot open by using the vario roof as this opened the boot enough for me to take the cover off from inside the lock and trip the boot lock open.

Then I inspected the PSE pump as most people will say this is usually the culprit. well my foam cover was dry but all 4 connectors had fairly major signs of corrosion. Thinking I had cracked it, I stupidly shut the boot only to realise that I had not put back the roof divider on its micro switch slot.

I had in the meantime tried the central locking and locked the boot again without thinking.

So I can't even get into the boot again this time.

There is a way of bypassing this boot divider micro switch and forum member Savcom has kindly agreed to help me with this to gain access to the boot again and then to sort out the PSE pump if possible.

So Rob if your keys all work in your locks you will be fine, but if not make sure you dont lock yourself out and make sure your boot divider is pulled out just in case .

Chances are it is the PSE pump. Keep us all informed please as to how you get on.

Regards Steve

PS Whereabouts are you based Rob?
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#13 Old 02-22-2018
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Getting the door lock off....really easy operation and soaking in a good kerosene based degreaser for a day or two may work. It didnt work for me as it turned out the key for the ignition barrel had been changed at some point but put a previous owner hadn't bothered to get a spare key for the doors from MB. Therefore all locking was totally reliant on the remote. Not a great idea!!!

Put simply....my ignition barrel and door locks required and used different keys. Yours could bethe same.

Once you get this sorted you can then sort out the fob!!
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#14 Old 02-23-2018
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Great to hear from you, sorry to hear your still having problems mate i hope it gets sorted soon, i thought it may be the pse pump but as they are so expensive i decided to give it a clean first to check but still nothing.... not sure what to do at the moment! Im in Braintree Essex will keep you posted if i manage anything!
Cheers Rob
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#15 Old 02-23-2018
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Sounds kinda like computer write-only memory.
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#16 Old 02-25-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by steve pring View Post
Hi Rob

Well sort of I think. Long story, but I managed to get the boot open by using the vario roof as this opened the boot enough for me to take the cover off from inside the lock and trip the boot lock open.

Then I inspected the PSE pump as most people will say this is usually the culprit. well my foam cover was dry but all 4 connectors had fairly major signs of corrosion. Thinking I had cracked it, I stupidly shut the boot only to realise that I had not put back the roof divider on its micro switch slot.

I had in the meantime tried the central locking and locked the boot again without thinking.

So I can't even get into the boot again this time.

There is a way of bypassing this boot divider micro switch and forum member Savcom has kindly agreed to help me with this to gain access to the boot again and then to sort out the PSE pump if possible.

So Rob if your keys all work in your locks you will be fine, but if not make sure you dont lock yourself out and make sure your boot divider is pulled out just in case .

Chances are it is the PSE pump. Keep us all informed please as to how you get on.

Regards Steve

PS Whereabouts are you based Rob?
See post #16 to https://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-gen...ml#post4133177

for outcome to this.

Cheers
Steve
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#17 Old 02-25-2018
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I think I'd skip the WD40 or lithium spray on door locks. Once one dries, it tends to attract dirt, etc and the problem will reoccur/get worse.

Although wd has it's place (and there are lots of opinions on using it in locks), I don't think it's a good idea. Here's one opinion on the subject https://removeandreplace.com/2015/12...e-it-yourself/

Quote:
It is not recommended to use WD-40 in or on any type of door locks or deadbolts. The WD-40 lubricant will work for a short time to lubricate but will eventually gum up the pin tumblers and cause them to stick in the chamber therefore making it difficult to unlock the door.
You need to use a dry lube like graphite which is designed to be used for locks (although it can be messy when initially used).

Or something like this


or



I use the tube version (it won't "deflate" : ie it doesn't depend on compressed air which we all know somehow "disappears" and you're left with a can of graphite with no way to get it out


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