Replacing seal in steering box output shaft. - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

SLK R170 General Discussion SLK 200, SLK 230K, SLK 320, SLK32 AMG

 5Likes
  • 1 Post By borris1954
  • 3 Post By borris1954
  • 1 Post By borris1954
 
LinkBack Thread Tools
#1 Old 02-02-2018
Registered Users
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Near London
Vehicle: 1997 SLK 230 (In H352 Linarite blue)
Posts: 185
Country:
Chats: 0
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
Thanks: 4
Thanked 24 Times in 21 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Replacing seal in steering box output shaft.

Hi All,

I posted earlier in the week that I had a quick and cheap fix for two of my 4 MOT advisories and have now been looking at the other two.

The first was for slight play in the steering system detected at the steering wheel. I have checked this (with the engine running) and am now officially ignoring it! When I check it I feel very slight free play of a max of about 5mm or so at the wheel (with steering centred). I think this is probably what you'd expect with a recirculating ball system. WIS gives the max as 25mm and I am nowhere near that. Also I see both front wheels move at the slightest turn of the steering wheel. I guess it's possible the tester thought it had rack and pinion steering and expected no play at all.

The second was for "Power steering component(s) has slight seepage from a component". Well this one is spot on - the bottom of the steering box is damp with fluid to say the least (see photo). After careful study I have decided this is coming from seal on the output shaft to the pitman arm. Using one of those clever little mirrors with a built in light and a telescopic arm I was able to inspect the top of the box and there are no leaks at the high pressure and return pipes or at the input shaft - all bone dry. So I ordered up a new seal (A0199975047) which duly arrived so earlier today I started to fit it and could do with some advice if anyone has done this job before.

The WIS page on this makes it sound very simple (PDF is attached) - basically measure the position of the pitman arm on the output shaft, remove the lower circlip, detach the pitman arm, remove the inner circlip, pull out the seal, press in the new seal and assembly is the reverse of the above...

So far I have driven the car onto a pair of ramps. Cleaned off the area with de-greaser. Marked the bottom of output shaft so it goes back on the pitman arm in the same place. Removed the lower circlip and loosened the pitman arm clamp bolt. Using a puler I can move the pitman arm toward the end of the output shaft OK but I am not convinced it will move far enough to come off the shaft without damage occurring somewhere. So play stopped early for today to take stock and seek advice.

My Haynes manual for Mercedes C Class (1993 to 2000) which uses similar steering gear says to detach the pitman arm at the ball joint on the drag link before the output shaft - but this isn't mentioned in WIS.

I am also wondering if I need to jack to car up and take the driver side wheel off to unload the steering and suspension and give more access.

Any thoughts appreciated and advice form anyone who has been there and got the T shirt on this particular job would be gratefully appreciated. My searching of the "interweb" hasn't thrown up anything too helpful so far but I will keep looking.

Thanks
Bob
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Steering Box Leak.JPG (25.8 KB, 16 views)
Attached Files
File Type: pdf Replacing sealing ring in lower steering gear cover.pdf (38.7 KB, 10 views)
borris1954 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
#2 Old 02-02-2018
Super Moderator/RoTMorganiser

 
Avel Du's Avatar
 
Join Date: Jul 2015
Location: Wirral, England
Vehicle: 2007 SLK55AMG
Other Toys: SLK350/C200AMG(Bluebadger),MK I Nissan Murano (2008), Honda VFR 800 FiW (1998), CB400four f2 (1978)
Posts: 23,211
Country:
Chats: 0
Mentioned: 271 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 2282 Post(s)
Thanks: 1,978
Thanked 1,473 Times in 1,359 Posts
Garage
Paging the clever folk:

@Turdo2
@Mn car guy
@efair
@stu32
@savcom
@Padgett

Myk
(Moderator/Ride of the Month Coordinator)


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Thanks go to those that post problems, solutions & feedback. It all helps.


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Smartop : Cubby Holder : Cree fronts : Both rear fogs : Clock Insert : Quicksilver exhaust



Useful R170 diy:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Useful R171 diy:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.


Useful R172 diy:

To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.
Avel Du is offline  
#3 Old 02-02-2018
Premium Member

 
Turdo2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Kansas
Vehicle: 1999 SLK 5.4 M113 V8 6-speed Manual
Other Toys: Ram 2500, '74 Plymouth Duster, W140 300 SE
Posts: 1,359
Country:
Chats: 0
Mentioned: 434 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 361 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 87 Times in 77 Posts
Garage
I just hammered a flat-head screwdriver into the crimp on the pitman arm enough for it to release it's grip and then forcefully pryed the pitman arm off.

my steering box is out of the car if you need any pictures of it.
Turdo2 is offline  
 
#4 Old 02-04-2018
Registered Users
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Near London
Vehicle: 1997 SLK 230 (In H352 Linarite blue)
Posts: 185
Country:
Chats: 0
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
Thanks: 4
Thanked 24 Times in 21 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Turdo2 View Post
I just hammered a flat-head screwdriver into the crimp on the pitman arm enough for it to release it's grip and then forcefully pryed the pitman arm off.

my steering box is out of the car if you need any pictures of it.
Many thanks for the tip. I will try this but I suspect my issue is not the tightness of the pitman arm clamp but a lack of free movement to get the arm off while still attached the other end. I am afraid I wimped out today of starting round two on this as it was pretty cold and fixing a friend's dead PC inside in the warm was a tad more appealing.

Sent from my G3121 using Tapatalk
Avel Du likes this.
borris1954 is offline  
#5 Old 02-04-2018
Premium Member

 
Turdo2's Avatar
 
Join Date: Apr 2013
Location: Kansas
Vehicle: 1999 SLK 5.4 M113 V8 6-speed Manual
Other Toys: Ram 2500, '74 Plymouth Duster, W140 300 SE
Posts: 1,359
Country:
Chats: 0
Mentioned: 434 Post(s)
Tagged: 1 Thread(s)
Quoted: 361 Post(s)
Thanks: 0
Thanked 87 Times in 77 Posts
Garage
I see your point, it may not rotate enough with the ball joint still attached.

if you undo the pivot arm at the passenger side of the car, the whole steering mechanism should slide down with the pitman arm.
Turdo2 is offline  
#6 Old 02-05-2018
Registered Users
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Near London
Vehicle: 1997 SLK 230 (In H352 Linarite blue)
Posts: 185
Country:
Chats: 0
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
Thanks: 4
Thanked 24 Times in 21 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Quote:
Originally Posted by Turdo2 View Post
I see your point, it may not rotate enough with the ball joint still attached.

if you undo the pivot arm at the passenger side of the car, the whole steering mechanism should slide down with the pitman arm.
Update after this afternoon's effort. First I took the car off the ramps and jacked up the front onto axle stands with the suspension unloaded. This seemed to help and after loosening the Pitman arm clamp a bit more with a suitable pry bar I was able to gently lever off the pitman arm from the shaft. WIS is correct (of course!) as there does seem to be sufficient free play to get the arm of the shaft with removing anything else. It was then obvious that this seal had not been replaced previously as the circlip was in such an awkward position. I was unable get any my various circlip pliers onto it at all. Eventually using a suitable pointy implement I was able to rotate the clip in its grove to a suitable place and then remove it.

At this point I thought I was home and dry but I was wrong. So far I have been unable to pry out the old seal. It is very hard and tends to break up. In the past I have removed this type of seal by screwing in a small self tapper and pulling on that but I could not get a screw to "bite". After further investigation (I was being mega careful so as not to damage any sealing surfaces) I discovered that just under to bottom surface of the seal there is a metal ring. Bad light and falling temperatures have called a halt for today but I think the next step is to carefully drill a small hole (or two) through the metal ring and then hook the seal out that way unless anybody has a better suggestion.

Cheers to all
Bob
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Pitman removed.JPG (26.2 KB, 9 views)
borris1954 is offline  
#7 Old 02-07-2018
Registered Users
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Near London
Vehicle: 1997 SLK 230 (In H352 Linarite blue)
Posts: 185
Country:
Chats: 0
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
Thanks: 4
Thanked 24 Times in 21 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Well the job is finally completed but only time will tell if the leak is now cured.

Getting that old seal out was a total pain in the backside. I really struggled with this and it wasn't helped by having to lie on the ground under the car in temperatures of around 4 degrees C. In the end I had to resort to a small drill as the only way to get past that metal ring and pull the seal out with a small hooked pick tool. I attach a photo the shows the ring and the problem is that somehow you need to get under this to lever or pull the seal out. Of course when it does come out there is high risk of oil in your face or down your sleeve. I was lucky and got both.

Putting the new seal in was in comparison a complete doddle. After coating with power steering fluid you can just push it into the opening (right way round of course). Following the Haynes manual approach (for the C class) i wrapped masking tape around the splines of the shaft so as to protect the new seal. The seal was then gently tapped home using a small piece of 40mm domestic waste drain pipe which had an outside diameter of slightly less the seal so was perfect (some luck at last!).

The pitman arm went back on so much more easily than it came off. Just a question of lining up the location mark I made before removal and tapping it home to the position measured before removal. A quick top up with fluid and the jobs a "good un" - I hope. If I am indeed leak free then I will change the fluid when the warmer weather gets here.

Now I just need to get my E Class through its MOT next week - a tad worried about that rattle in the front suspension over bumps at low speed... but that's another forum.
Attached Images
File Type: jpg Old seal.JPG (19.2 KB, 5 views)
savcom, LeonardoDaBenz and Pep943 like this.
borris1954 is offline  
#8 Old 02-07-2018
Moderator

 
LeonardoDaBenz's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2016
Location: Near Toronto, Ontario
Vehicle: 2012 SLK55 AMG "SCHWARZIE"
Other Toys: Magnum RT and an ugly Civic
Posts: 10,320
Country:
Chats: 0
Mentioned: 76 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 1062 Post(s)
Thanks: 379
Thanked 618 Times in 579 Posts
Garage
Not that I'm ever going to do this BUT what happened to the ring you had to drill a hole through? Just put it back in place or did you need a replacement? Just for interests sake ya know


To view links or images in signatures your post count must be 0 or greater. You currently have 0 posts.



LEN

(Moderator)

“I can’t give you a sure-fire formula for success, but I can give
you a formula for failure: try to please everybody all the time.”


Herbert Bayard Swope
LeonardoDaBenz is online now  
#9 Old 02-07-2018
Registered Users
 
Join Date: Feb 2013
Location: Near London
Vehicle: 1997 SLK 230 (In H352 Linarite blue)
Posts: 185
Country:
Chats: 0
Mentioned: 2 Post(s)
Tagged: 0 Thread(s)
Quoted: 34 Post(s)
Thanks: 4
Thanked 24 Times in 21 Posts
(Thread Starter)
Quote:
Originally Posted by LeonardoDaBenz View Post
Not that I'm ever going to do this BUT what happened to the ring you had to drill a hole through? Just put it back in place or did you need a replacement? Just for interests sake ya know
It is part of the old seal. The seal is formed around it during manufacture. My problem was that the seal material was so crumbly that when I tried levering it out with a small screwdriver it just disintegrated exposing the metal underneath. If you look at the photo of the old seal (not a good picture I am afraid) you can see the metal exposed in the area I was working on.

So it was replaced when the new seal went in.

Sent from my Nexus 7 using Tapatalk
LeonardoDaBenz likes this.
borris1954 is offline  
Sponsored Links
Advertisement
 
Reply

  Lower Navigation
Go Back   Mercedes Benz SLK Forum > Mercedes Benz R170 SLK Class Cars > SLK R170 General Discussion

Bookmarks

Quick Reply
Message:
Options
Upload your files to MEGAUPLOAD
Upload your images to ImageShack

Register Now



In order to be able to post messages on the Mercedes Benz SLK Forum forums, you must first register.
Please enter your desired user name, your email address and other required details in the form below.

User Name:
Password
Please enter a password for your user account. Note that passwords are case-sensitive.

Password:


Confirm Password:
Email Address
Please enter a valid email address for yourself.

Email Address:
OR

Log-in











Currently Active Users Viewing This Thread: 1 (0 members and 1 guests)
 
User Tag List

Thread Tools
Show Printable Version Show Printable Version
Email this Page Email this Page



Similar Threads
Thread Thread Starter Forum Replies Last Post
The Perfect Cup Holder Solution! Stinger General Modifications R171 127 07-22-2018 08:36 PM
SmartTop Roof module Install for the R171 etyu SLK R171 Class DIY 13 09-29-2017 09:49 PM
Replacing throttle body, how hard is it? Lotus SLK R171 General Discussion 8 06-02-2011 08:50 PM

Posting Rules  
You may post new threads
You may post replies
You may not post attachments
You may not edit your posts

BB code is On
Smilies are On
[IMG] code is On
HTML code is Off
Trackbacks are On
Pingbacks are On
Refbacks are On

 
For the best viewing experience please update your browser to Google Chrome
 

Clubs, Garage Plus vBulletin Plugins by Drive Thru Online, Inc.