I have/had a PSE problem.
I had the corrosion problem bad on the black plug. I tried to clean it but couldn't get it to work. Symptoms were typical, dome light only worked with rocker switch, no alarm, etc.
I pulled the PSE, took the socket off of the board and hard wired to the board. When I plugged it back in the door locks worked but still had an issue with the dome light.
I pulled back out, removed said wires and rewired making sure I didn't mess something up the first time.
Put PSE back in, still the same issue.
I had some issues when pulling the socket off and lifted some contact points on the board. I started researching and came across this thread https://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-cla...ml#post4057089
and figured what the heck.
I went to the junkyard and scored two w210 PSE's.
I soldered the microprocessor onto the new board. Installed PSE and everything worked except for the door lock. The unlock worked. I opened the box to see if I could see anything.
It looked to me like the relay worked correctly unlocking but didn't make the full connection unlocking due to the white adjustment wheel.
Stupidly, I reached in with a screw driver to push over the relay contact to the side that wasn't making contact to see if that was perhaps the issue.
I accidentally arced against one of the other relays on the board. I had a lil smoke leak out of something on the board. I took it in and saw that one of the glass diodes popped. No big deal.
I soldered in a new diode from the old board.
Plugged back in, everything worked except the pump, this time the pump didn't fire in either direction. No noise from the pump at all.
So I pulled back out. I figured I fried the board.
Took the microprocessor off and soldered to the other w210 pse I had. Plugged it in, same problem.
I checked fuses under the hood and none are popped.
I pulled off the side panel in the dash and no fuses were popped in there either.
I then pulled the K40 relay box (some thread I found pointed at that) no dice,
everything was fine there.
I then disconnected the battery.
I found something that suggested that the canbus signal could have been messed up.
It sat like that overnight. I plugged back in, still no pump.
I pulled the PSE, tied 12V directly to the pump and it worked.
I just pulled N10-3 but not sure what to check or how to check it.
It looks fine to me, at least I couldn't see anything popped visually.
I have some high magnification glasses I use. This helps me find cold solder joints and such. I don't see anything out of the ordinary.
So now I am thoroughly confused.
I would think if the microprocessor popped, nothing would work; door locks, dome light, alarm, etc. When I hit the lock and unlock buttons I hear something click in the cap, but no pump. WIth each board swap, I kept the pumps with the board they came with so it's not a fried pump. Is there anything I should be looking at that connects directly to the pump? I also checked for the fuse box in the boot. I don't have one in the boot...at least it's not on the right side. Any ideas? Is there a fuse somewhere perhaps I haven't found that's not in the fuse box in the engine compartment?