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#1 Old 05-09-2013
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Question Filler cap lock

For the fuel filler flap lock (which for me is not driven because of a lack of PSE), I wanted to start using the manual override which is inside the boot.
But when I access it (easy to find, and where you would expect it) I find that the operation is very stiff. I can *just* move it by hand, but I feel it is well beyond the capability of the normal vacuum servo, which at approx 1 square inch would be able to provide approx 14 lbs force as a maximum.

Can I ask anyone to check on their R170 to see how stiff this should be?
Based on stripping down the boot lock, I would expect the detent (click) to stop it rattling out of position to be the main force, and the other frictions to be almost trivial, so a light single finger should be enough.

Many thanks,
Anon

Edit: See post #16 below for information.

Last edited by Tolak; 05-28-2013 at 04:24 PM.
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#2 Old 05-10-2013
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Anyone?
It's the work of a moment to open the boot, open the little cover in the boot lining just beside the filler cap cover, and pull the red button there. (Pull = unlock, push = lock, depends how unlocked you car is when you try this)
Please?
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#3 Old 05-10-2013
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At work right now, if you can wait until the AM when i get home i'll have a look for you.
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#4 Old 05-12-2013
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Bump, for Sunday activities

Bump, please.
Anyone got a bit of activity planned for Sunday?
So can you check this, please?
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#5 Old 05-12-2013
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Juwt had a look. There is a small access panel that allows me to see tje two plungers. I tried to move them manually with no luck. I dont think you can move them without braking the plastic.
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#6 Old 05-12-2013
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Two plungers

Quote:
Originally Posted by livefreeordie View Post
Juwt had a look. There is a small access panel that allows me to see tje two plungers. I tried to move them manually with no luck. I dont think you can move them without braking the plastic.
Thanks for checking; mine is really stiff, so I wonder how the vacuum pump can drive this locking pin.
If yours is also stiff, and you are happy that it does lock, then my concerns are unfounded.
(I am getting a vacuum and pressure tester, so will be checking the function of those three lines from the PSE, to confirm this)
Anon

Edit: Note that there should not be two (separate) plungers, and that the red plastic plate should be a bridge between the driving plunger and the locking rod.
See posts #14 and #17 below.

Last edited by Tolak; 05-28-2013 at 04:20 PM. Reason: Adding link to analysis below
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#7 Old 05-12-2013
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Im curious about this please post your findings.
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#8 Old 05-12-2013
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It may not be your issue but when we got our R170 the little lock flange with the hole, inside the gas door, was bent a little and the lock rod rubbed against the side of the hole. Is yours hitting the edge of the hole and causing the drag?
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#9 Old 05-13-2013
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Awaiting test gear

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Originally Posted by livefreeordie View Post
Im curious about this please post your findings.
Sure, I'll let you know, once the test gear arrives.

But you're in the enviable position of having this working; can I ask you to confirm that it moves when central locking opens and closes, and that the pin is seen to close the gap that the filler flap tag goes into? You should also see the red plastic manual lever move; I would expect it to move about 1 cm, in line with the pin that locks the filler flap, and to be easy with one finger and thumb. (As I moved mine, I was aware that the plastic was near its breaking limit, and that felt wrong; hence the question)

It is quite possible that this is a dormant failure, and that very few check that it works.
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#10 Old 05-13-2013
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Useful thought

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Originally Posted by kcbsvx View Post
It may not be your issue but when we got our R170 the little lock flange with the hole, inside the gas door, was bent a little and the lock rod rubbed against the side of the hole. Is yours hitting the edge of the hole and causing the drag?
Thanks for this; I did wonder if the movement could be impeded by the flap, and so almost immediately started checking it with the flap open, so I could see the pin slide in and out. (In fact, my pin was partly extended, and about 1mm was visible, but this did not cause the flap to be latched, and so I started looking at it)
Then I tried to operate the manual lever, and found the resistance to be so high, I doubt the vacuum servo could drive it, and so asked the question.
Is your manual lever easy to move?
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#11 Old 05-13-2013
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I'll take some pictues later today.
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#12 Old 05-13-2013
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Moved by hand

So this evening, I thought it better to lock the fuel, rather than trust to not being robbed, and so set the lock to the fuel flap by hand.
As I pushed the lever forward, I noticed a cyclic notchiness that might indicate a gearbox action. (Edit: This is not true; the operation is a large linear bellows, and the notchiness is from the sticky seal)
Anyway, the lock is now engaged, and my fuel is safe.
I'm hoping the risk that it now suffers is that I will burn it! :flame:
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Last edited by Tolak; 05-28-2013 at 04:16 PM.
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#13 Old 05-15-2013
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Just get an Ł8 locking fuel cap and don't worry about the lock.
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#14 Old 05-15-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by livefreeordie View Post
I'm curious about this please post your findings.
I got into mine this evening, and have found the following:
The bellows for the filler flap lock is a large bellow of approx 2" (5cm) diameter, which pushes out on the red plastic arm.
The end of this red plastic arm is the flat red plastic plate, through which a metal shaft is fitted.
The metal shaft then goes back past the bellows assembly, through an airtight seal (which is the cause of all the resistance) and out to act as the locking element for the flap.
Not sure how I'm going to ease the airtight seal, without compromising the rubber; silicone grease (or WD40) would seem to be an option, and avoiding mineral grease.

Reading your comment about the two plungers should have rung the bell louder.
So from your description, it would appear your activating plunger has separated from your locking bar, and so you don't have a working lock.

I have also bought a vacuum tester, and have been able to confirm that all the locking circuits around the car work (suck to lock, puff to unlock) so all I need is to get a working PSE. Note a vacuum tester can only have 1 Atm pressure, but be careful with your pressure source; more than 1 Atm (14 psi) and you may damage the system. Do not use an air-line!

Three "circuits"; filler flap has its own line, drivers door and central compartment has one, and passenger door and boot have the third. Probably based on the length of line and the volume of air required to activate the remote bellows.

Last edited by Tolak; 05-28-2013 at 04:22 PM.
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#15 Old 05-18-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by MGMGrand View Post
Just get an Ł8 locking fuel cap and don't worry about the lock.
I agree with the pragmatism, but when I do get my central locking working, I would have liked it to work all the locks. So now I know that teh vacuum lines will operate the locks, but I suspect the filler flap lock will be too stiff for the pump.
This filler lock seems to be strange, so I do wonder how many people have this failure, but do not check it? And, of course, it may fail locked, which would be a nasty surprise when you come to fill up.
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#16 Old 05-24-2013
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tolak View Post
For the fuel filler flap lock (which for me is not driven because of a lack of PSE), I wanted to start using the manual override which is inside the boot.
But when I access it (easy to find, and where you would expect it) I find that the operation is very stiff. I can *just* move it by hand, but I feel it is well beyond the capability of the normal vacuum servo, which at approx 1 square inch would be able to provide approx 14 lbs force as a maximum.

Can I ask anyone to check on their R170 to see how stiff this should be?
Based on stripping down the boot lock, I would expect the detent (click) to stop it rattling out of position to be the main force, and the other frictions to be almost trivial, so a light single finger should be enough.

Many thanks,
Anon
I got my hands on another filler flap lock today, and this one is as easy to move as I would expect, and a light finger action does suffice.
The only force involved is the edge of the bellows, which have a slight over-the-top design to ensure the actuator is open or closed, and does not want to stay in between (or rattle from one position to another)

Don't know how mine got that way, (probably lack of use because of the missing PSE) but it might well be worth checking that yours is locking with the vacuum, rather than assuming it is working.
HTH
Anon

Last edited by Tolak; 05-25-2013 at 06:45 AM.
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#17 Old 05-26-2013
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Pictures

You may not have stripped down a lock to see the pneumatic actuator on the door locks, but here is the information about the fuel filler flap lock to contrast with that!

Picture 1 shows the large diaphragm (approx 2" across) to drive this simple pin lock; the seal is obviously expected to become hard to use.
Picture 2 shows the bridging piece between the red actuator output and the metal pin
Picture 3 shows the side view, with the latch to attach it to the black plastic mounting that the filler flap rests against. The metal locking pin is just visible sticking out on the right hand side, and the seal that becomes grippy is mounted just inside that plastic tube, so only a few mm away from the outside environment.
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Last edited by Tolak; 05-28-2013 at 04:14 PM.
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#18 Old 03-24-2015
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How do you get the actuator out?

Quote:
Originally Posted by Tolak View Post
You may not have stripped down a lock to see the pneumatic actuator on the door locks, but here is the information about the fuel filler flap lock to contrast with that!

Picture 1 shows the large diaphragm (approx 2" across) to drive this simple pin lock; the seal is obviously expected to become hard to use.
Picture 2 shows the bridging piece between the red actuator output and the metal pin
Picture 3 shows the side view, with the latch to attach it to the black plastic mounting that the filler flap rests against. The metal locking pin is just visible sticking out on the right hand side, and the seal that becomes grippy is mounted just inside that plastic tube, so only a few mm away from the outside environment.

Looks like I am 2 years late to this thread, but it seems to be the only one talking about the actual actuator for the fuel door lock.
My question is how is it attached and how do I remove it? I can get my hand in the small space, but I can't feel any latches or clips that is restraining the actuator. I have a replacement, and iot looks like there is a clip, but I don't know if I need to press it, bend it twist it. I can't seem find a remove/replace procedure.
Can anyone point me in the right direction please?


Thanks in advance,
1998 230 SLK
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#19 Old 03-29-2015
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Removed the fuel door lock actuator-vacuum element.

I answered my own question, finally! It turns our that the plastic tab on the upper left of the actuator (as installed) is a locking tab that needs to lifted (away from the actuator body) while you pull aft on the actuator.
I could not get a good grip with just the trunk open because of the linkages in the way, and with my large hand, I could not get a grip with the trunk side walls in, so pulled them out. I followed a great procedure I found on the Pelican Parts web page.


Pelican Technical Article - Mercedes SLK 230 - Trunk Panel Removal


I left the truck lid open from the front, hinged in the back, like I was opening the roof, but stopped the sequence at that point to remove the right real panel per the above procedure.
I needed to get low on the right side of the rear fender to get a straight reach in with my left hand, then lift the locking tab with my index finger while pulling back.
Then it is easy enough to get the actuator outside the metal access hole (which is larger than the plastic one in the sidewall). Then just swap the vacuum line to the new actuator and put it back in. ( I did check the locking function before I reinstalled it just for fun)
Hope this helps someone fix their fuel door lock by replacing the actuator (vacuum element)
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#20 Old 04-02-2015
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Tolak View Post
You may not have stripped down a lock to see the pneumatic actuator on the door locks, but here is the information about the fuel filler flap lock to contrast with that!

Picture 1 shows the large diaphragm (approx 2" across) to drive this simple pin lock; the seal is obviously expected to become hard to use.
Picture 2 shows the bridging piece between the red actuator output and the metal pin
Picture 3 shows the side view, with the latch to attach it to the black plastic mounting that the filler flap rests against. The metal locking pin is just visible sticking out on the right hand side, and the seal that becomes grippy is mounted just inside that plastic tube, so only a few mm away from the outside environment.
Quote:
Originally Posted by rorkes View Post
I answered my own question, finally! It turns our that the plastic tab on the upper left of the actuator (as installed) is a locking tab that needs to lifted (away from the actuator body) while you pull aft on the actuator.
I could not get a good grip with just the trunk open because of the linkages in the way, and with my large hand, I could not get a grip with the trunk side walls in, so pulled them out. I followed a great procedure I found on the Pelican Parts web page.


Pelican Technical Article - Mercedes SLK 230 - Trunk Panel Removal


I left the truck lid open from the front, hinged in the back, like I was opening the roof, but stopped the sequence at that point to remove the right real panel per the above procedure.
I needed to get low on the right side of the rear fender to get a straight reach in with my left hand, then lift the locking tab with my index finger while pulling back.
Then it is easy enough to get the actuator outside the metal access hole (which is larger than the plastic one in the sidewall). Then just swap the vacuum line to the new actuator and put it back in. ( I did check the locking function before I reinstalled it just for fun)
Hope this helps someone fix their fuel door lock by replacing the actuator (vacuum element)
I'm glad you found out where the latch is.
I had researched my photos, and was ready to write another long-winded description of how to change the pneumatic lock, and fortunately you beat me to it.
I suspect now you have done it, you will be able to do it through the small hole that is provided in the boot/trunk lining. I don't consider I have small hands, and I have fitted and removed it through that portal (porthole).
Thanks for answering the question.
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