Transponder ring replacement (or fix damaged wire) - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 01-03-2018
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Transponder ring replacement (or fix damaged wire)

Does anyone know anything about replacing the transponder ring? The wire is damaged on mine right where it meets the ring. Itís not a regular wire rather has an outside braided sheathing over a center core and the braided part is what I presume to be itís ground and thatís what is broken on my wire. Causing starting issues. Big pita. Lol. Kinda hard to see in the pictures but I did my best.
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#2 Old 01-03-2018
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#3 Old 01-03-2018
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Thank you kindly sir!!!!



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#4 Old 01-03-2018
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@efair idk if you are the guy I got the transmission from or not but seeing that rang a bell in my head for some reason. I still have your dipstick. I can send it to you or the money equivalent. My phone broke and I lost your contact info. I had no idea how to get in touch with you as I didnít save our pmís. If not you please disregard.
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#5 Old 01-03-2018
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You should be able to fit a new/good used transponder ring but make sure the part number matches as there could be differences car to car. It acts a bit like an aerial to pick up the signal from the key fob which is sent to the DAS. These won't fail very often so probably not much info around but I don't think just the ring will need coding to the car. Un-plug the existing one, replace it and see how it goes.
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#6 Old 01-03-2018
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PM'd you my mail info...
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I believe that wire can be unplugged up at the Immobilizer box behind the gauge cluster... it's been a while since I've been in there...
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#8 Old 01-03-2018
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Gotcha. Thanks


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#9 Old 01-03-2018
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Does anything have to be coded or programmed????

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Originally Posted by stu32 View Post
You should be able to fit a new/good used transponder ring but make sure the part number matches as there could be differences car to car. It acts a bit like an aerial to pick up the signal from the key fob which is sent to the DAS. These won't fail very often so probably not much info around but I don't think just the ring will need coding to the car. Un-plug the existing one, replace it and see how it goes.
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I believe that wire can be unplugged up at the Immobilizer box behind the gauge cluster... it's been a while since I've been in there...
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not the ring. it's just a mass of wire.
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#11 Old 01-03-2018
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So the wire will disconnect from the ring and just replace the wire? Or are you saying the wire will unplug from behind the dash somewhere and remove it along with the ring and install a new ring and wire? The ring didnít appear to unplug from the wire. Thatís where the damage is. It looks crimped there somehow.

I think Iím just overthinking everything at this point. I just want this thing to crank easily and donít want to have to take it to the dealer or a shop.

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not the ring. it's just a mass of wire.
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Trace the wire back behind the instruments and unplug it. The whole ring and wire will come come out as per pic.
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#13 Old 01-03-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by stu32 View Post
Trace the wire back behind the instruments and unplug it. The whole ring and wire will come come out as per pic.
The braid is a metal sleeve to screen the core wire from interference. The coil is just that - a coil of wire. When disconnected as per @stu32's photo it should measure as a low resistance between pins 1 and 2 on the plug. If the resistance is very high you have a break in the wire (as you have mentioned).

@Potentialslkowner - Before you buy a new one you could try mending the existing one (you've nothing to lose after all). If the braid is broken and you are confident in your soldering ability you could try bridging the gap with a short length of hook-up wire. Be quick with the soldering iron as too much heat and you could melt the core wire too and cause a short circuit. Mend and test the coil then put some sleeving around the mend to provide strength or some insulation tape to protect the braid and re-assemble.

Good luck!

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#14 Old 01-03-2018
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I donít know if I can solder it without melting the jacket of the wire under the braid. I suck at soldering. Have tried and tried to get good at it but no such luck. Plus with the damage right at the edge of the plastic of the transponder ring thereís really no wire on that side to play with.

If I hold it in the right position it makes contact and the car will start. It just sometime takes several tries (at least before I knew this was the issue). Either way I wanna get it fixed ASAP so I donít get myself stranded somewhere.




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[=stu32;4030913]Trace the wire back behind the instruments and unplug it. The whole ring and wire will come come out as per pic.
The braid is a metal sleeve to screen the core wire from interference. The coil is just that - a coil of wire. When disconnected as per @stu32's photo it should measure as a low resistance between pins 1 and 2 on the plug. If the resistance is very high you have a break in the wire (as you have mentioned).

@Potentialslkowner - Before you buy a new one you could try mending the existing one (you've nothing to lose after all). If the braid is broken and you are confident in your soldering ability you could try bridging the gap with a short length of hook-up wire. Be quick with the soldering iron as too much heat and you could melt the core wire too and cause a short circuit. Mend and test the coil then put some sleeving around the mend to provide strength or some insulation tape to protect the braid and re-assemble.

Good luck![/QUOTE]
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#15 Old 01-03-2018
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Thank you all for your help. I am extremely relieved to know I can just replace it. Iíll get one ordered ASAP
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#16 Old 01-03-2018
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Either way - good luck!

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#17 Old 01-03-2018
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These guys are in your town and have a 98. I'd bet that would work and it should be pretty cheap. Check Inventory ? Gray and White U Pull It
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