Hazard and Power Lock Swich Problem - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

SLK R170 General Discussion SLK 200, SLK 230K, SLK 320, SLK32 AMG

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#1 Old 11-28-2017
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Hazard and Power Lock Swich Problem

Since I purchased the car I've been having a problem with the hazard lights-turn signals and lock switch. Seems I have turn signals with the
hazard light switch pushed in but none when it is released. Clearly there isn't and hazard lights with the switch in or out.


Besides the above problem the power door locks will not lock from the dash switch, they will unlock. The keyless remote control operates
both lock and 2 stage unlock just fine.


I notice that both the lock switch and hazard light switch are in the same assembly leading me to think the switch is bad. One more note, it's clear
someone has been in to the switch, the mounts are loose and the panel has a crack in it, guessing the didn't have the radio removal tools.


Has anyone had this problem?


Thanks in advance Steve
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#2 Old 11-30-2017
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I popped the switch out and found no power getting to the hazard switch assembly. So I checked all the fuses and found they were all
fine. Turns out the PO has put a inline fuse behind the dash going to the hazard switch, 7.5 amp. The fuse was blown. So I put a fuse in and everything
started working.


The question is why was this done. I checked to see how much draw was going though the switch, it was around 6 amps. So I bumped the fuse up to 10.


Time will tell if it's repaired, I have a feeling I will be revisiting this again.




Steve
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#3 Old 11-30-2017
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Bumping the fuse up without identifying the cause may not be a good idea.

The purpose of the fuse is to provide a weak spot.
Then, if the current gets too high you know the fuse goes
and protects the equipment from a power surge.

By over rating the fuse you may be potentially pushing that weak spot to somewhere else.
Not knowing where that will be can even cause fires.

Please be careful.

Two guys that may have ideas on where to look:
@stu32
@savcom
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#4 Old 11-30-2017
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The 7.5amp fuse will be very close to the draw of all the indicator lights when hazzards are on so no suprise it blew.
Not sure why the fuse should be there or if the power for the lights should go through the switch. @savcom is good on electrics.
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#5 Old 11-30-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racerstev View Post
Besides the above problem the power door locks will not lock from the dash switch, they will unlock. The keyless remote control operates
both lock and 2 stage unlock just fine.
That's just as it should be. The doors should automatically lock when you start moving and this switch is just to unlock the doors (perhaps when you're picking up a passenger). That's the easy part of your problem.

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#6 Old 11-30-2017
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After getting things working the switch on the dash now locks and unlocks. The car doesn't lock when it gets going, think this is programmable though.


As far as the fuse goes, the reason I checked the load across the fuse was to figure out what amp fuse to put in, 6 amp is oh so close to 7.5, one surge
could blow it. One of my jobs at work is installing remote engine starters, we always use 15 amp fuse's in the light positive circuits..


Is there a chart telling me what factory fuse feeds this circuit? The manual doesn't list anything.




Steve
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#7 Old 11-30-2017
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As to the hazard lights (I'm assuming you don't have HIDs) I'm afraid the circuitry is messy. A bit of background which may help understand the diagram:

The on/off blinking signal (+12V / 0v) at 1.5Hz originates from the Multi-function control module (known as N10) on connector 3 pin 45 (a black/blue cable).
This feeds Z30, a connector known as the Blinker connector sleeve. The 'left' and 'right' signals are known as Z30/1 and Z30/2 and are switched to the Z30 signal by one of three controls:
  • The indicator stalk (known as S4)
  • The hazard switch (known as S6/1)
  • K54, the Lock confirmation relay (this flashes the indicators when you lock/unlock the car).

These circuits then get fed to the indicator lamps as @stu32 has already suggested.

Given the above the attached diagram shows the wiring around the switches

Indicator Switching.jpg

If you look at the hazard switch (S6/1):
  • With the switch NOT pressed Pin 5 connects to Pin 7
  • With the switch is pressed in Pin 3 (Z30) should be connected to both pins 1 (Z30/1) and 2 (Z30/2) and pin 5 should connect to pin 6.
  • Pin 6 in turn is fed from +12V via the 30A fuse F1.

Hope this helps. I can't help more until I know which wire the PO has put the fuse holder in. If the diagram lacks clarity PM me your email address and I'll send the original through.

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#8 Old 11-30-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by Racerstev View Post
After getting things working the switch on the dash now locks and unlocks. The car doesn't lock when it gets going, think this is programmable though...

Steve
From the manual:


Locking and unlocking

Activating Check that the ignition is switched on. All the lamps in the instrument cluster light up. Press and hold upper part 1 of the central locking switch for approximately five seconds. The automatic central locking is activated.

Deactivating Check that the ignition is switched on. All the lamps in the instrument cluster light up. Press and hold lower part 2 of the central locking switch for approximately five seconds. The automatic central locking is deactivated.
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#9 Old 12-03-2017
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Red face

Thank you for the replies!

I will set the auto lock feature tomorrow on the ride to work, very nice feature for sure.

The wiring diagram is helpful but like most german diagrams a pain to read. I plan on going
back in to repair a broken mounting tab for the ashtray, I'll see what color wire he put the fuse
in. I'm really wondering now.

For now all is still working fine. (BTW I REALLY love this little car!)

Steve
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