K40 fix - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 11-23-2017
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K40 fix

Hello, 1999 slk230 k40, cleans and
repaired 3rd solder joint, top left side k40 relay, but when I probe the 2nd [middle] and 3rd solder joints with multimeter I get continuity, is that right? No flow of solder into one another.
Bad solder joint was so severely burnt where as the green coating melted and exposed copper. Worried about hooking back up and starting car, if there's not supposed to be continuity, anyone have a k40 out and multimeter to check for me.
Thanks,
Mario
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#2 Old 11-28-2017
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Originally Posted by mrg2065 View Post
Hello, 1999 slk230 k40, cleans and
repaired 3rd solder joint, top left side k40 relay, but when I probe the 2nd [middle] and 3rd solder joints with multimeter I get continuity, is that right? No flow of solder into one another.
Bad solder joint was so severely burnt where as the green coating melted and exposed copper. Worried about hooking back up and starting car, if there's not supposed to be continuity, anyone have a k40 out and multimeter to check for me.
Thanks,
Mario
No info, well when I pull the F3 fuse there's no continuity between the two, so I think I'm good to go. Hook it up tomorrow and see what happens.?
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#3 Old 11-29-2017
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#4 Old 11-29-2017
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Apologies @mrg2065 - not seen your post.

Your picture isn't the clearest so I can't see exactly where you are referring to on the K40. I have a wiring diagram of the unit that may help you but I can't add it successfully to the forum directly as it get reduced in size (click on the thumbnail and you will see what I mean). Currently you can't PM me as you do not have enough posts under your belt, but you can PM @Avel Du with your email address and he can pass it on to me. I can then email you the full resolution diagram. This should help you test the connections you are seeing.

Do be aware that some pins on the K40 have diodes between them: these will typically measure a low resistance one way and a high resistance the other, so you may be seeing something like this with your measurements. Others pins have resistors, relay coils or closed relay contacts across them and these too may give unexpected readings depending on what range you have the multimeter set to during your tests. It's difficult to know without more detail from your situation.

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#5 Old 11-29-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by savcom View Post
Apologies @mrg2065 - not seen your post.

Your picture isn't the clearest so I can't see exactly where you are referring to on the K40. I have a wiring diagram of the unit that may help you but I can't add it successfully to the forum directly as it get reduced in size (click on the thumbnail and you will see what I mean). Currently you can't PM me as you do not have enough posts under your belt, but you can PM @Avel Du with your email address and he can pass it on to me. I can then email you the full resolution diagram. This should help you test the connections you are seeing.

Do be aware that some pins on the K40 have diodes between them: these will typically measure a low resistance one way and a high resistance the other, so you may be seeing something like this with your measurements. Others pins have resistors, relay coils or closed relay contacts across them and these too may give unexpected readings depending on what range you have the multimeter set to during your tests. It's difficult to know without more detail from your situation.

Cheers

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#6 Old 11-29-2017
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#7 Old 12-01-2017
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Originally Posted by Avel Du View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by savcom View Post
Apologies @mrg2065 - not seen your post.

Your picture isn't the clearest so I can't see exactly where you are referring to on the K40. I have a wiring diagram of the unit that may help you but I can't add it successfully to the forum directly as it get reduced in size (click on the thumbnail and you will see what I mean). Currently you can't PM me as you do not have enough posts under your belt, but you can PM @Avel Du with your email address and he can pass it on to me. I can then email you the full resolution diagram. This should help you test the connections you are seeing.

Do be aware that some pins on the K40 have diodes between them: these will typically measure a low resistance one way and a high resistance the other, so you may be seeing something like this with your measurements. Others pins have resistors, relay coils or closed relay contacts across them and these too may give unexpected readings depending on what range you have the multimeter set to during your tests. It's difficult to know without more detail from your situation.

Cheers

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Thanks again for your help, yes when I pull F3 fuse there's no continuity, seen another post regarding recirculating air flap relearning process is that done on this SLK model? Holding flap open 90deg, 15 sec, key on, then 45 sec, something like that, I got procedure saved if so.
Thanks again.
Mario
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#8 Old 12-01-2017
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This thang ?
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#9 Old 12-01-2017
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This thang ?
Hmm thanks for that, this 1999 SLK 230, k40 relay#3 fuse has a15amp fuse.
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#10 Old 12-02-2017
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrg2065 View Post
seen another post regarding recirculating air flap relearning process is that done on this SLK model? Holding flap open 90deg, 15 sec, key on, then 45 sec, something like that, I got procedure saved if so.
I've not heard that one. Can anyone share an insight on this?

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#11 Old 12-02-2017
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Originally Posted by savcom View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrg2065 View Post
seen another post regarding recirculating air flap relearning process is that done on this SLK model? Holding flap open 90deg, 15 sec, key on, then 45 sec, something like that, I got procedure saved if so.
I've not heard that one. Can anyone share an insight on this?
Sorry after further review, it's a 2001slk that I read about.
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#12 Old 12-05-2017
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Alright Thanks all for the help, plugged K40 in started SLK and recirculating air flap is working, pump feels/sounds stronger, check engine light off. should pass emissions now after Recirculating air flap harness repaired and k40 joints re-soldered.
Failed Emissions in 2014 with same codes.P1235, P1236, and P1525, miss placed this years exact same test results, side mechanic at emissions testing sight here in Seattle, Wa. must of cut SC harness tan or beige wire, showed effort on the paperwork and gave SLK a Pass to get the tabs in 2014, then I re soldered a yellow wire to pin I popped out of harness and with you guys and a forum topic search on codes found the Problem and corrected it.
Thank you!!

[iurl="https://www.slkworld.com/attachment.php?attachmentid=462793&stc=1&d=1512510 956"][/iurl]
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Last edited by mrg2065; 12-10-2017 at 10:23 PM.
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#13 Old 07-07-2018
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New o2 sensor, getting a pending p0135, o2 sensor heater circuit. So i cut old harness off Old o2 and pluged in and probed wires for grounding, i am getting readings when grounded to grey wire, and also one of the white wires. On harness grey wire plugs in to black ground, and white wire plugs in to a black/white striped, which goes right into area on k40 repaired area The board in area was severely burned, think it was un repairable, hence the p0135,
Unless the bk/w striped is also continuously grounded, haven't probed with key on. Thoughts?
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#14 Old 07-07-2018
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Originally Posted by mrg2065 View Post
New o2 sensor, getting a pending p0135, o2 sensor heater circuit. So i cut old harness off Old o2 and pluged in and probed wires for grounding, i am getting readings when grounded to grey wire, and also one of the white wires. On harness grey wire plugs in to black ground, and white wire plugs in to a black/white striped, which goes right into area on k40 repaired area The board in area was severely burned, think it was un repairable, hence the p0135,
Unless the bk/w striped is also continuously grounded, haven't probed with key on. Thoughts?
Ahhh probably a pispoor solder job, got a jewelers eye scope, middle joints need touch up, hit a couple other joints, and going to clean off crappy area i soldered and properly clean and resolder,
Will order new K40 just in case.
Correction o2 wires go to opposite end of repaired area, resoldered those joints as well.

Last edited by mrg2065; 07-07-2018 at 11:53 PM.
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#15 Old 07-20-2018
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Originally Posted by mrg2065 View Post
Quote:
Originally Posted by mrg2065 View Post
New o2 sensor, getting a pending p0135, o2 sensor heater circuit. So i cut old harness off Old o2 and pluged in and probed wires for grounding, i am getting readings when grounded to grey wire, and also one of the white wires. On harness grey wire plugs in to black ground, and white wire plugs in to a black/white striped, which goes right into area on k40 repaired area The board in area was severely burned, think it was un repairable, hence the p0135,
Unless the bk/w striped is also continuously grounded, haven't probed with key on. Thoughts?
Ahhh probably a pispoor solder job, got a jewelers eye scope, middle joints need touch up, hit a couple other joints, and going to clean off crappy area i soldered and properly clean and resolder,
Will order new K40 just in case.
Correction o2 wires go to opposite end of repaired area, resoldered those joints as well.
Resoldered and touched up all other joints, hooked up battery, ran vehicle, starting with o2 sensor drive cycle, hooked up obd2 reader, got the p0135 again, looking for a used K40 relay until funds are better.
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#16 Old 07-26-2018
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Out of interest, @mrg2065 what soldering iron are you using? I only ask because there is a lot of metal around these joints and the relays/pins that you have to heat to a good enough temperature to melt solder. If your iron is too small (like a 15W hobby iron) then it will take forever to get the energy into the joint to properly melt and flow the solder. You should have a decent 25W or 50W iron with a clean bit and plenty of solder in a reel to properly tin, heat and flow the joint.
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#17 Old 07-26-2018
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Out of interest, @mrg2065 what soldering iron are you using? I only ask because there is a lot of metal around these joints and the relays/pins that you have to heat to a good enough temperature to melt solder. If your iron is too small (like a 15W hobby iron) then it will take forever to get the energy into the joint to properly melt and flow the solder. You should have a decent 25W or 50W iron with a clean bit and plenty of solder in a reel to properly tin, heat and flow the joint.
Thanks, mine is a 40w, gonna pop k40 and make sure i hit all the pins, the p0135 would be the k40 right, or is there another circuit that controls the O2. Dont have a manual yet Thanks again.
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#18 Old 07-29-2018
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Quote:
Originally Posted by mrg2065 View Post
the p0135 would be the k40 right, or is there another circuit that controls the O2.
I have the circuit diagram but on it's own there isn't much more help I can provide now. When I get to my bigger computer on Monday I will be able to some digging around where the O2 sensors are connected and let you know.

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Does this help ?
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#20 Old 07-31-2018
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Does this help ?
Oh yeah thanks, resoldered all pins, traced f2 fuse(good), to o2. Pins, flipped k40 over and saw where i may have missed a spot, solder that and update, thanks again.
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