A/C problems. Whistling noise and doesn't blow cold =( - Mercedes Benz SLK Forum

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#1 Old 04-17-2013
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Exclamation A/C problems. Whistling noise and doesn't blow cold =(

Hi folks!
I have some issues with my air conditioner =(
Long story short: I started my car today when leaving from work. Since it's 100% humidity outside and it was raining I turned on my air conditioner and... and I hear a slight whistling noise when the a/c is running. The noise comes mostly from the driver's side since my wife couldn't hear anything on the passenger's seat. As soon as I press the button (the middle one) to turn the a/c function off but the blower keeps working the whistling disappears. And when the a/c is running the air is barely cool.
My first thought was that I ran out of freon since the air wasn't cold.
Does anyone have any other thoughts? What and where should I check? Does anyone know how to check the freon level and refill it? I've never messed with the air conditioning system, but I guess it's about time.
Any advice is HIGHLY appreciated! It's almost 100% humidity level here every day in Houston and I can't live without the a/c. It's simply a suicide. So before things escalate to the upper level what should I do? I'm sure won't be using the a/c since I'm scared of the whistling noise when it's running. Is it just a symptom when the freon runs out?

Folks, help me please!
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#2 Old 04-17-2013
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#3 Old 04-17-2013
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I'm no expert but I stayed at a Holiday Express last night
I don't have any pressure gauges or vacuum pumps... Seems the mechanic is the way to go now =(
One thing that bothers me is the whistling sound that starts when I turn the a/c on and stops when I turn it off... Can the low refrigerant level cause that? Or does it sound like a big leak?
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#4 Old 04-17-2013
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The recharge kit at wally mart has a gauge
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#5 Old 04-17-2013
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#6 Old 04-17-2013
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Update:
I just got back to my car started it to test it again. I'm also able to hear some buzzing or hum (not sure how to explain it). I've also noticed that when I press the gas pedal and the rpm starts falling below 1800-1700 there's a slight short humming sound specifically at this rpm range. And my blower started spinning and it sounds as if the leaf is stuck somewhere. I'm mostly sure it's not a leaf since I didn't get any near my car recently.... sign of worn out brushes?
When I open the hood and turn the a/c on I guess the a/c unit turns on. The whistling sound was mostly heard from the bottom area of hydraulic steering fluid reservoir...
Just a bad day guys... the weather is humid and cloudy outside. And the car issues just came up and I'm just worried that the sound has changed since it stayed for a while outside...
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#7 Old 04-18-2013
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As a former Houston resident, I understand your need for Aircon. Don't fool with the system, take it to a good independent shop and have them check it out.
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#8 Old 04-18-2013
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As a former Houston resident, I understand your need for Aircon. Don't fool with the system, take it to a good independent shop and have them check it out.
Oh it's just unbearable right now. Woke up this morning had to open windows to get some cool air in on the way to work. By the time I reached the finish lane I was all "sticky"... though thw air was cool it was soooo humid.
One thing that scares me is that you neeed to add some kind of oil in the a/c to allow proper lubrication. I already called my friend who has his own shop and owns a nice Mercedes. He told me that he fixes MBs and that he will charge $140 to check the system and refill it. I asked him if he's going to check for leaks and he told me that he's going to put some dye in it. Hopefully everything will be Ok. Today the whistling noise disappeared but when the blower fan engages it makes some weird rattling noise as if some leaf is tuck in there or may be it's time for new brushes?
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#9 Old 04-18-2013
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Have a look at the pollen filter. All sorts of crud fell out when I changed mine. May be something to do with he funny noises!

See here
http://www.2carpros.com/questions/me...nditioning-pro
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#10 Old 04-18-2013
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Originally Posted by Aycee View Post
Have a look at the pollen filter. All sorts of crud fell out when I changed mine. May be something to do with he funny noises!

See here
http://www.2carpros.com/questions/me...nditioning-pro
Yes, I know what you're taking about. I have messed a lot in that area It seems as it it's a leaf since I ran it couple times full speed on/off and the sound did disappear but then appeared again though it's barely noticable. Will mess with it in the next 2 weeks.
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#11 Old 04-25-2013
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Update:
Got a flat tire this morning on my way to the shop for the a/c check =(
Never used a small spare wheel like we have on our little Mercedes' =) Turned out to be really easy 5 minute job and I just loved the small compressor it comes with
The tire was replaced for free under warranty. Got a nail right on a side wall =( Got Continentals DWS last June. So far very pleased with these tires!!! It's been a year and the whole thread is there. They indeed claim in goes 40-50k miles! And provide a 40k warranty. But that's the happiest part of my story =(
Back to a/c
The whistling disappeared and the air conditioner stopped kicking in after all the freon was out. I took it to the shop today. The system was empty. My friend who owns this shop recharged the system, put a dye in it. It took about an hour. He told me that the system need to be "sucked out" to get rid of any moisture. So he recharged the system and didn't see any leaks. He told me just go ahead and drive it and if the a/c starts getting warmer just come back and he will inspect for any dye. He also told it could take months or even a year or two if it's a small leak. So I left him with a fully working conditioner! It was ice cold!!! BUT... =(
It was less than a day after my leak showed up...
A made couple trips, picked up my wife, we came back home and after we were about to live after our lunch I started the car and we saw smoke coming out from under the hood. I shut the engine off, popped the hood and heard a loud hissing. I realized it was the freon. At first I thought the hose popped but after I took the grille out I saw this green dye which was put in the system in the morning. The thing is that it came out straight from the left side of the condenser... I have a very bad feeling =(
Anyone has some ideas?
I already started searching for a new condenser. The one from the online dealer is $340. I searched and found one on RMEuropean.com for $212 with a discount code I can get it for $200 + free shipping. It says OEM Behr.
But I will visit the shop again tomorrow just to confirm that and if it's the case then it's not fun for now =(
Found this DIY on replacing the a/c condenser
https://www.slkworld.com/slk-r170-cla...slk-320-a.html
Has anyone else performed it? Any known repairs? Advice? Cheer ups?
P.S. this week is not a happy one for me. Everything just comes up =(
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#12 Old 04-25-2013
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you ac guy seems like a straight up guy, see what he has up his sleeve about getting a good price.


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#13 Old 04-25-2013
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you ac guy seems like a straight up guy, see what he has up his sleeve about getting a good price.
He's a good guy. He has changed my oil on my SLK couple times and didn't charge me a bookoo price. Then I just started doing it myself since it's really easy and a lot cheaper anyways.
I'll post back whatever I find out tomorrow. Thanks for the cheer up Jeff! I have to pay $2500 for the summer term for 2 classes and repairs just throw me off sometimes...
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I can write you a check!


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#15 Old 04-25-2013
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I can write you a check!
LOL! I'll keep that in mind =) You'll be my last resort
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#16 Old 04-26-2013
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Hi Jayson

I'm going to need a new condenser at sometime soon but not as urgent as you with our weather here as I would only need it for warming at the moment .

However, in my search to source a new one, this looked very good value and comes with a 2 year warranty and is the one you would require.

http://www.ebay.co.uk/itm/3806222379...84.m1423.l2649

It might be worth a try to see if they will post to the States and you never know, they might knock 20% VAT off which would go someway towards the postage.

Good luck

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#17 Old 04-26-2013
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When I changed mine last year I got one from the mobile aircon man and he charged me Ł76 so thats a good price for the UK. Looks like they are more expensive in the USA. I changed mine myself and got him to check for leaks and recharge it. I did a little write up so here it is for anyone handy with some spanners.
About 2 hours work working at a leisurely pace. Remember to work safely and if in doubt get a professional to do the work!

1. Jack up front of car and rest on axle stands
2. Remove under tray (4 x 8mm bolts)
3. Undo top bolts on grill and lift to remove (4 x 8mm bolts)
4. Undo radiator drain plug and drain approx. 2 litres of coolant
5. Remove air intake pipes on both sides, they just pull off
6. Disconnect plug from fan assembly (n/s top)
7. Disconnect pipe to expansion tank and lift out of the way
8. Disconnect top hose from engine block but leave on radiator
9. Pop the clips on top of the fan assembly and lift out
10. Undo the top bolts holding the condenser to the radiator 2 x 10mm)
11. Pop off the top clips on the radiator
12. Underneath undo the two aircon pipes.
13. Undo the bracket holding the pipes to the radiator surround.
14. I broke both of these and had to drill out the captive bolts on the bracket and replace them. Soaking in WD 40 may help
15. Push radiator back towards engine.
16. Lift out the condenser
17. There are 2 oval rubber grommets on the top which need to be put onto the new condenser
18. Reverse procedure to replace
19. Fit new O rings to the condenser pipes
20. Don’t forget to top up with coolant
21. Get the system recharged and check for leaks
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#18 Old 04-26-2013
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Ok, I just back from the shop. I was told that if I bring my own condenser which will run me around $200 it will cost me around $300-350 for the labor to change it. So I'm looking at around $600 total. They will also replace coolant and recharge a/c but they won't charge me for the labor to do it. Just for the freon, coolant, compressor oil, and dye. He told it's a big job to replace the a/c condenser that he need to drain the coolant, take the front bumper off.

Aycee, from your write up I see it's pretty easy thing to swap the condenser, however, did you have to take the front bumper off or is it just a matter of draining the coolant, and unscrewing bolts and watch out for the clips? At that price it seems reasonable for me to replace it myself, change the coolant and just come back to recharge the system.
Also, while here I found this DIY on coolant flush.
http://www.peachparts.com/shopforum/...-pictures.html

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About 2 hours work working at a leisurely pace. Remember to work safely and if in doubt get a professional to do the work!

1. Jack up front of car and rest on axle stands
2. Remove under tray (4 x 8mm bolts)
3. Undo top bolts on grill and lift to remove (4 x 8mm bolts)
4. Undo radiator drain plug and drain approx. 2 litres of coolant
5. Remove air intake pipes on both sides, they just pull off
6. Disconnect plug from fan assembly (n/s top)
7. Disconnect pipe to expansion tank and lift out of the way
8. Disconnect top hose from engine block but leave on radiator
9. Pop the clips on top of the fan assembly and lift out
10. Undo the top bolts holding the condenser to the radiator 2 x 10mm)
11. Pop off the top clips on the radiator
12. Underneath undo the two aircon pipes.
13. Undo the bracket holding the pipes to the radiator surround.
14. I broke both of these and had to drill out the captive bolts on the bracket and replace them. Soaking in WD 40 may help
15. Push radiator back towards engine.
16. Lift out the condenser
17. There are 2 oval rubber grommets on the top which need to be put onto the new condenser
18. Reverse procedure to replace
19. Fit new O rings to the condenser pipes
20. Don’t forget to top up with coolant
21. Get the system recharged and check for leaks
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#19 Old 04-26-2013
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No need to take off the bumper, just follow the steps above and save yourself $300. You don't even have to drain all the coolant, just enough to stop it coming out of the top hose and expansion tank. I'm sure you could do it in under 2 hours and have the satisfaction of doing it yourself.
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#20 Old 04-26-2013
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No need to take off the bumper, just follow the steps above and save yourself $300. You don't even have to drain all the coolant, just enough to stop it coming out of the top hose and expansion tank. I'm sure you could do it in under 2 hours and have the satisfaction of doing it yourself.
Ok, I'll attempt the procedure myself. I will also replace all the O-rings on the hoses since the system is "empty as a drum already" . They seem easily accessible and go quite cheap .15-.54 cents a piece. I promise to take pictures!
Thanks a lot for prompt reply and support!
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